yellowchinaman

I regassed my AC from Quick Fit this time last year. It was nice and cold. Now it's just cool and it's only been a year. Is that normal?

why of course. That's because your wrap is le creme dela creme of wraps As a result of the heat wave we've had quite a few enquiries about fixing their wraps from other applicators. 9 out of 10 times it's due to error of application.

My diff mounts are brand new and also oils had been changed in diffs in Jan this year to to correct level. Main reason why I think its CV is the clunking occurs when turning but only after a hard run. Was told it could be becasue the diffs heat up which could be a good indication. I just dont want to open every CV gater to check as it's a big messy job.

Thanks guys. Cooper I think this is exactly what I'm looking for.

How do I know if my CV joint has gone or on its way out? Rear ones especially? I've changed my NS front a long time ago because the boot had split so did the job whilst I had the shaft out. However recently I've noticed when driving on motorways, after about 10 mins at high speeds I get a clunking noise when I take off from stationary. I've spent days trying to figure it out and settled on the theory that at high speed the grease in the CV boot moves to the outer casing of the boot hence why the joint clunks from lack of lube after a high speed drive. On normal drive it never happens. Only when I've done about 80-90 mph+ for a while. The clunking is much louder when I accelerate and turn at the same time so I was suspecting it was the PS front. Classic symptoms of a front CV gone. However the sound it more like from the prop shaft and maybe even rear of the car. I can never tell. To put it short, without splitting all my CV joints, I can't tell which ones gone. Or even if it is a CV or could it be the prop? What should I do cos I can't find no movement in any of the drive shafts when checking stationary apart from a small turn on the prop shaft which I heard is normal.

so based on the setup that I only have a single stereo output from my head unit, is there such amp which has 4 speaker out puts?

I totally understand what you've explained. But that is usually for subs though and to be used for monoblock amps? So by adding a splitter I can turn 1 L&R phono output into 2 but then does that I mean I need 2 amps or is there such thing as an amp with 2 inputs? Or is it better to have a single amp but with a 4 channel output for the front L&R and rear L&R but have a balance controll between the front and rear? Does such amps exist?

As in the title. I want to boost the speakers in the front doors and rears with 1 amp straight off the head unit but do I have have to get 2 amps to separate the front and rears?

shame you're not near us in London

I think expect £1000 a year for repairs and wear is too much. After the first few years and most of the problematic wear is sorted, it doesn't cost much to maintain when the car is good. The last 2 years I spent nothing on repairs but then again last year the car was off the road for 6 months for the rebuild and respray. Only expense was normal service parts like gaskets and brakes, tyres etc... http://pistonheads.com/sales/3753055.htm I really like this inter-cooler route. Most shortest and straight rout. This is the way I want to do mine too.

weird. Looks like a 350Z and a celica merge. Another thing I've not seen before till now is this: I know it's 3D but shame no one made it.

well if it was imported it's not uncommon that it was stripped before as a track car and then put together just to be shipped out for foreign imports so that would explain the interior. However I still wouldn't touch it.

I didn't know our fours had traction control?

PIAA horns 115db. Stable horns are around 96db. ebay 12V duel horn is just 60db. Think PIAA is the loudest here.

so recommend me a conditioner at a budget?I was using a trickle charger and now given up on the battery so I just bought a new one.

thanks guys. It's the conductor thing I wanted to know about cos its the first I've ever heard of them aside from trickle chargers. Also I've never seen or heard that we had an alternator light before?

So my battery is dead now and just bought a new one. It's a tiny racing battery from Banner for caterham kit cars. I was surprised that it's died in just 1.5 years so I emailed and asked a few questions from some suppliers and was advised that I should disconeect the battery if the car isn't in use. Also to kept it on a conditioner (not a trickle charger). What does that mean? Now the other question is, more about the faff. After the car starts ituses power from the alternator to keep it running. Does that mean the battery is then isolated and not used aside from heating and stereo? Also the alternator actually charges the battery rite? There is no wire or feed from that alternator to the battery apart from the earthing so how does that work?

I'd say for that budget, get your self a running MOT'ed gen 5. My friends done the banger run quite a few years ago and ended up leaving the car somewhere in Europe. Sounds really fun.

Read it again buddy. We're actually in this one too!

probably just wet but still over priced

M6 = 6mm hole M7 = 7mm hole etc... does that answer your question?

Looks like Ali G got a new job?

Get a GT4. You wont look back as I never did.

6097 the correct model for the ST205 thought?

We normally charge £200 to powder coat 4 17" rims and that includes full restore and balancing.