cooperman

some thing to do with whats called driving lights. i havent seen the paper work but i believe if they are white they can be classed as driving lights. all new cars now come with broken lights that are on all the time day or night and its some thing to do with that. andy

there is little you will get out of the head i think. a general port match and deburr is as good as it gets. from what i have seen of the head design so far they have got it as close to perfect as you can with in the limits the casting gives. if the head/engine is good then all you need to do is look at thinner head gaskets. if the rev 3 is the same the standard gasket is 1.2mm and you can get 1mm, 0.8mm and 0.6mm gaskets. this should be enough to change the compresion with in useable limits. standard tools need really. i havent used any thing special as of yet and i only have the sump and crank left to take out. components to change. water pump, oil pump, cam belt, tensioner and idler, get an engine gasket kit and that will give you all the seals and gaskets you need to change. pistons should be ok so shouldnt need changing. fensport should be a good place to start for parts and you will get discount as your doing the TSS. if not the good old fleabay for parts. apart from that its all straigtht forward. rev2 and rev3 are very similar so RP's or my threads should help out. oh and try and get hold of one of these but for the rev3 3sge http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Carina-Celica-Camry-Engine-Repair-Manual-/190591090092?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item2c601d3dac they come up for sale every now and then and have every thing you will ever need in there. its just nice having a hard copy you can just flick through in the workshop. andy

handling first. coilovers done. brakes upgrade done. strut braces done. oh and i have 4ws so corners are fun. power second. high lift hks cams and after market piggy back ecu to use them along with engine rebuild. should be the only way.

so are you changing the caliper and the pads? sign up to this website and you can then put the reg number in. this is the same way your local auto parts places will do it. then you will get a very good price and the right parts, normally with in a few (working) days. plus its free to sign up. they do calipers as well but lots of money. andy http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/

think biggy on here was doing it at some point. dont no if he is still doing it. would say that he maybe your best bet?? andy

for normal use there is no benefits really. but they look good and cant hurt to put one in. as for witch pipe. follow them and see witch one goes back to the intake. cant see in the pics.

there should only be one coming out of the rocker cover. it then goes in to the intake system some where. thats the one you are looking for.

yes 20mins, job done.

sounds like you need to work a little slower and get a good even cover on it. last time i did a satin rattle can job it did take about 5-6 layers to cover a blue vw caddy consistantly.

if you have a white wind screen will it not be hard to drive though? could look ok if done well. andy

so ita you are trying to say you have a gt4 look-a-like?

just looking for one for you this is all i have found at the moment. well it was being sprayed. or this one.

even better ones. the ad pictures of the car. and as close to now as your going to get. you can see the number plate in both of these just to proove to the non believers

as close as i can get on this computer. the start-ish and now-ish

think i might be ita.

i know we have at least one but cant remember his forum name right now.

thanks for the reply guys i have passed the info on this weekend and told him that there is more info to come back so when you have it let me know. wrc itold him about you and that you are a trust corp members you will prob get a call from him soon. thanks again guys. andy

cool cheers guys. would be a nice thread to keep going if any one has any thing to add. any body else has any good/cheap or just generaly recommended wheel places. andy

WRC, Lesley. why would it be a special job? maybe a stupid question but if going for one solid colour. there would be no turning involved so no use for a cnc lathe. would just be a matter of media blasting them and powder coating or painting? thanks for the help so far people. all info will be past on. tctech if you could find out that would be good. also it would be a post job up to him could you ask him if this would be ok? thanks all and if there is any more info any one has let me know andy

come on give me some details. like i said posting could be an option. as long as the posted doesnt cost £300

well to both of you if i could get some info it would be a start. the wheels look like this but he is thinking of going for solid black all over. could always post them up if it works out cheaper that way. thanks andy

this is not for me but have a friend that is after alloy wheels refurbing. is there any where localish to salisbury, or some where that does postage as well. he has had quotes of £100 per wheel, that seems a little much to me. just getting some info on the wheels from him so will update with that in a bit. im sure that the average was about £40 a wheel for 15" wheels solid black powder coated? any links would be good, thanks andy

if you pm bek he should be able to tell you. he has done a rev 3 conversion in his gen 5 and im sure he said he was having trouble getting the st202 rad in the front of the st182. andy

not look at one before but on a mk1 golf caddy pickup i used the buffer and some rubbing compound to take the yellowy haze out off the rear window. they go realy bad and people tend to take them out and replace with a flat piece of perspex but then you cant put the seat back as far. they tend to look like this, about 20mins and a bit of effort and it was cristal clear again. rubbing compound like this, http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_170783_langId_-1_categoryId_165625 andy

i always find on mine that its a pain in the ass to jack it up as its so low. just slide drip tray under (just fits) spanner and reach from the drivers wheel, one hand and pull. cars still on the ground so nice and easy. 15 mins and job done, oil and filter change. never rounded one off with a spanner yet. but you do have to use the ring end. andy