stevenc1603

It wouldn't count up the miles. However I am sure I have read somewhere that you shouldn't run the car with the cluster removed. I have no idea why, aside from the legal point of not having a working speedo, but I'm positive I have read it somewhere.

1a. Yes. Whatever it takes to get most of the water out of the system. You'll not get it completely empty as their are parts of the engine below the lowest outlet so you'll not get them empty. 1b. Stick a hose in. Personally I would advise that you remove the thermostat. Usually fairly easy on most Celica engines. I would flush the rad separately by taking the top hose off and flushing the rad from there. You can then flush the engine by sticking the hose in the radiator top hose (attached to engine) and running it through until it runs clear. Make sure the heater is set to the hottest setting so that the valve to the heat exchanged is fully open.(Means you flush the heater circuit at the same time). 3. Fairly sure you will have an expansion(overflow) tank. Look at the radiator cap. Do you see a small tube leading to a plastic tank? That will have lid that you can take off (with this small tube) Cover this with the cloth. You might also want to take that off and rinse it out before you do the refill as it might have some crap in it. 4. Fast idle is about 1500 RPM. 6. That'll be a pain in the ass. I'd just let the engine cool completely (probably about 4 hours) then use cold water. 7. Just start the engine and let it run at idle. Hope that helps.

Place I use has a very similar system, although the sensors are mounted on separate posts at the front, not on a large cross member. Each wheel gets a pad hung on it with a fancy pattern on it that the lasers read and use to work out what's pointing where. Computer screen shows each wheel in real time and updates as the mechanics adjust it etc. I think mine was about £40 last time I had it done. S

New feature of the new forum software. I should get my 8 year one in October some time.

Fuck no for me too. Not that its a problem as almost everyone that gets in my car is a non smoker anyway. For those of you not using the ashtray, I hope you are not littering our countryside with used fag ends!

Why did I have it in my head that the battery had to be secured properly already? Or am I just thinking about the battery try having to be corrosion free?

I'd try heating it up with a hair dryer (ask a Gen 7 owner for a shot) and then see if you can peel it off? Also you can try lighter fluid or petrol but check it in an inconspicuous area first to makes sure its not going to eat the paintwork.

Not sure if the Gen 5 setup is the same as the Gen 6, but I had to replace the sender/pipe assembly on mine as it had rotted away. Mine only leaked when the engine was running as the pump was forcing fuel out of the pipework.

I've always run from brim to fumes then fill to brim again. I'd rather do the filling in one big hit rather than have to hit the filling station every other day.

Normally when wiring in a solenoid you would need to wire it through a relay. This is because the output from the alarm is normally a much lower current than is required to operate the solenoid. You may have overloaded the output of the alarm unit. Hopefully not but I don't know enough to help you check this.

There's loads of spare plugs, sockets, fuse and relay locations that are unused on some cars. Manufacturers fit the same looms and fuse panels etc to the cars as its saves on manufacturing costs so there is always some bits that are not used depending on what options were fitted.

Membership packs, including the stickers, are processed once per month, so depending on when you joined it can take a few weeks.

This could open a can of worms but, I thought the general consensus was to have your best (least worn) tyres on the rear. I certainly read a poster to this effect in my local garage and I'm sure that we have had this argument on here before now...

On the gen 6 the main loom from the ignition barrel to the junction box is where I have seen most immobilisers fitted on gen 6's. If its CAT1 then all the wires from this loom to the immobiliser will be black, however this doesn't really matter. What you are looking for is the 2 wires on the car loom that have been split. Its normally fairly obvious which ones it is once you get access into the loom. Note, you can remove this loom completely, its only about 12" long from what I remember. Once its off the car you will be able to see the loom wires are coloured and you just need to join them back together again. Once you have these out, the rest of the immobilser wires will be for remote central locking, the wiring to the siren if there is an alarm, wiring to the fob receiver. Probably also live and ground feeds etc. You just need to follow them back and carefully remove them and make sure you insulate any exposed wires.

I very much doubt you would be able to make the choice of repair or replace yourself. If its only chipped and it can be repaired, this is what they will do. Of course, if the chips were turned into cracks the replacement would be only option.

Of course in this country it will result in complete chaos as the "general population" won't be able to cope with not being told what to do and when to do it...

I'm sure other countries already have this. I think I remember driving through junctions that were off when it wasn't busy. Possibly Spain or maybe Sweden...

Not sure if the gen 7 engine has hydraulic valve lifters but if it does and the engine has been unused for some time, it could be that they have become a bit sticky and therefore the clearances aren't being closed properly? Just a thought. I know you can get some oil treatments, might be worth trying that before spending some real cash on getting the clearances checked and adjusted...

I got mine on Thursday I think. Looks fantastic, thanks to everyone involved in getting it done again this year

That might be it aye

Nothing yet here...