Ant Baker

i am assuming that you rounded it by using a multi-hex socket so my first try would be try a 6 sided socket on the bolt...you may be surprised...if not then next step is what Adex recommended

Haha left mine in the rain 3 days and got bad results haha

Rubber bungs or electrical tape, i have had bad results with nasking tape before, leaving it for 3 days on mine marked paint with glue especially if exposed to weather

I have a spree kit in mine and my dash has developed the same problem one started flickering on the needle now nearly half my dash lighting is out!!! once they start flickering the eventually die out

Thick white smoke that lingers is burning anti-freeze you can tell this as the fumes will smell very sweet, blue tinted smoke means burning oil and black smoke is overfuelling

Usually a dead battery is caused by the water/acid level running too low and the plates inside the cells warping and touching together allowing the anode and cathode to touch so if it is dead flat then adding water will not work...if it turns the engine but very slowly and then starts clicking rapidly then you can try topping up and charging overnight...make sure to leave the caps off the battery when charging to allow it to vent...if you are going to charge it make sure you top up the battery with DISTILLED water which you can get cheap at tescos of halfrauds if you dont top it up first you can risk warping plates that were good

Yeah tis completely dependent on the tester as my car goes through each year fine with 'ice white' sidelight bulbs which in reality are blue....

So now we launch an attack on me? Like i said it is your job as the owner of the vehicle to ensure your car is roadworthy all year round..an MOT is not carte blanche that your car is tickety boo...i am not saying that anyone on here doesnt look after their cars i am simply saying the people who drive their cars all year round and never look at it until The MOT comes round are not really being what you would call a 'responsible' owner...and unfortunately when an MOT tester fails your car your insurance company will slip out of it...hell they manage it even when everything on your car is legal... https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/after-the-test In here it does say that if your car fails then it cannot be driven until a retest has been passed. Also would you like to stand in front of a court of law after you have killed someone and say 'sorry sir, but i still had 20 days of my old MOT left, even though it failed two days ago?' Dont think so.....

Yeah see the problem being that an MOT does not say your vehicle is roadworthy for 12 months...like said earlier in this thread all it is there for is to detect early signs of deterioration i certainly wouldnt like to argue about it in a court of law!! at the end of the day if your car fails the MOT then would you really want to drive it?

It is all logged on a computer....they will dig up everything...

An MOT is only officially valid for the time that it is being tested, you could pass an MOT with 1.6mm of tread on yours tyres, drive down the road and be stopped by a copper who does his test and get 1.5mm. 3 points and £2500 later you realise that your MOT certificate is worth nothing. It is YOUR job to ensure YOUR vehicle is roadworthy at all times, if it isnt and you do have an accident you can bet that the insurance company will wriggle out of paying As per OP i am of the opinion that the new MOT overides your old one, just as it would if it had passed the test

To be honest the oil should be nearer if not on the full mark when cold...as for getting a better reading it is all about learning the dipstick haha so try a slower pull, or leave it in for a longer time always wipe it and then check the level, hope this helps a little

I agree with ORC on this one 150DB is stupid amounts and i am pretty sure not even Moto GP bikes produce 150DB....

haha only when it is hot out

Haha i am forever being pulled on my ZZR for my Race cans but there is a legal limit for bikes and that is 92db on the road but the choppers have got to be exceeding that, i have only ever been told "please could you make a concerted effort to keep to low revs while in built up/residential areas" now don't get me wrong this is fair as they are not classed as road legal (came with a sticker that they leave with good faith for you to apply which reads "competition use only") as they are straight through cans but god do they sound good and 9 out of 10 cops don't know jack about the laws anyway

all AC fluid has a dye added, it is usually green or orange you may see it around any connections for the AC quite often go on of the compreessor

When quick fit do a regas they should run through the whole test as they need to pull a vacuum in the system. This should show up any leaks but yeah once a year sounds about right

Haha yeah good engine and such like but sort of double the price of most sixes haha

Edited

Beams engine for sale http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-CELICA-3SGE-BEAMS-ENGINE-KIT-/370604692047?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5649c2d24f pretty sure they arent worth this much???

i don't own one but this might help a bit http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/36259-gt4-running-costs/

I had a tyre replaced the other day and that was 215/40ZR17 and i was told 32PSI was the correct pressure hope this helps, it must be close to this pressure maybe put 32/33?

Yeah he is but his business can be found in the corp section, Skewer LTD