dublet
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Everything posted by dublet
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Have you talked to mook about it?
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Use some logs..
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Don't think you can stop it, bar covering the discs with some corrosion inhibitor. Perhaps like vaseline. But that won't do them any favours if you want to reuse them at any point. As mentioned, just driving a small distance will clear any rust.
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If the budget isn't a problem, I'd definitely go for a touch up respray in the original colour. Makes the car look great and will last for ages. In previous topics about wraps it has been mentioned that they can ruin the paint underneath, so you'd need to respray if you wanted to remove it, potentially..
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Indeed, dynos are a guess as they measure wheel HP, and there are many factors that drain power from the flywheel. But I'm sure you know, dear boy. :rolleyes:
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Yamaha do make torquey engines as well.
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hmm which ones ...grooved or Dimpled or both
dublet replied to Akuma77's topic in General Celica Discussion
In which case, you're not really using them "fast road". -
hmm which ones ...grooved or Dimpled or both
dublet replied to Akuma77's topic in General Celica Discussion
I would go neither, as it makes no difference unless you're racing on a track. -
It's bound to be one of the numbers in here, right? http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1999_TOYOTA_CELICA_ST202-BLPZF_7501.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1999_TOYOTA_CELICA_ST202-BLMZF_7501.html
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I've always found it a bit standoff-ish. Not really, I'm sure they're great and will make your day.
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Same as with any paint. Many thin layers > one thick layer.
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These mobile paint corrections are all franchises, so their quality hugely depends on the franchisee.
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Think that might be more than a chip. There's a few different paint repair companies though, so get a few different quotes, one of them might be able to fix it regardless.
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http://www.chipandpaintrepairs.co.uk/ http://www.nationwiderepairs.co.uk/mobile-repairs
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The drop link nutss probably just need to be tightened to their specified torque. The exhaust can probably be patched up easily, otherwise it's a case of replacing the section. It's also possible you just need some new rear brake shoes, or that they just need cleaning out. Or both.
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http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht224-3piece-coil-spring-compressor
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I'm guessing any polishing will remove their UV coating. Maybe applying one of those nano coating things would help? http://www.nanonext.net/nanonext/shoppingcart/products/Nano-Auto-Glass-Coating-Set-%252d-Rain-Repellent-Coating.html http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004EFZ0M0
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Given your skill level in most things, I'd think you should stick with a DA first.
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Possibly the best postcard ever!
dublet replied to Black Knight's topic in General Celica Discussion
JSF only had it's first flight in 2006 and not due for release until 2015. -
I have to disagree with some of the above. A GT4 doesn't really have significant repair bills as a matter of course. Things can be more expensive, yes, and many parts are more expensive than a 7 but I don't think that's insurmountable. The most of the repairing I see in the GT4 section comes from owners faffing about with the engine and chasing power.
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As a fuel cost comparison, 15k p/a will cost you in fuel (assuming a cost of ~1.30 a litre) alone: 35mpg: 2507.14 30mpg: 2925.00 25mpg: 3510.00 20mpg: 4387.50 15mpg: 5850.00 Driving around London, I get about 22mpg.
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If the engine is fairly standard and hasn't been messed with too much, it will give you no problems. Mine is on 191k miles. Though 20-25mpg isn't ideal for a daily and around London, I find you can't really properly stretch it's legs.
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Possibly the best postcard ever!
dublet replied to Black Knight's topic in General Celica Discussion
I've gone on holiday in Scotland, it's a great place for hiking, driving, sampling whisky from distilleries and generally unwinding from the buzz of London. -
With 6 and before, it's just a case of ensuring you pick the one with 3S-GE, as it doesn't have any design problems. And also check how careful the previous owners were, more service history is better, even if it wasn't done by Toyota. Also check the usual places for rust. Different generations have different places where rust appears first (or everywhere in a gen 4).
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Open the radiator cap when the engine is cold, it should be right up to the cap.
