petest202

yea i used it when i had sticky calipers on the last celica. new celica ok at the mo, but i will get around to taking them apart and using red rubber grease on the sliders.

well done. good for you. remember me when you win the euro millions lol,

if i was anywhere near southampton i would of snapped these up. hope this will help someone out , if so, put a few pound in a help for hero's box when you think of how much you just saved. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-celica-leather-trim-with-front-door-panels-taken-from-01reg-in-silver-/330806494175?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d059a83df

if its the same as the 2.0l, the cv joint can be tapped of the shaft. its a splined end, and on mine it was stuck fast and i ended up damaging the end of the axle. but the other side just popped off. so with a bit of luck yours might pop of ok. but i would sugest taking the shaft of as you will need room to tap all around. it does have a ring holding it inside the joint too. BUT i will sugest if the cv joint is ok, just replace the ABS ring. it should just pop off if teased all around. im not a machanic, this is just from what ive done in the past. so get other opinions too. good luck

or you can use a crossover, 1 rca in ,and 2 rca out, it will boost the rca signal to the 4 way amp, and you can control whats comming out. more money tho get what you pay for as usuall

your letting a dealer do it? dosnt matter if he's your mate or not, you need to find a good independent machanic. and like the comments before, soak them with wd40 or another penetrating fluid for a few days or so. failing that, oxy acetylene torch will move them. and if you do need to cut any bits off, get second hand replacements. that is a rip off mate.

i have a switch on mine. the only reason i wanted the option to turn them off was for night time use. before i got hids, the yelow headlight bulbs looked crap against the bright white leds in the drl's. so i turned them of at night. but they look great now with the hids and led sides.

not used it, but a guy at unipart said it was better than radweld. but im thinking you dont want your heater matrix blocked up if thats what it does(or do you mean a leak in the matrix?

no not in college,well not for 20 years now lol

no im in blackpool. yea always the same, always a bit late.

if only this was last week, i travelled down from blackpool to minehead last thurseday for the 70's weekend.

thanks for that, you know your stuff then. sent you a pm. yea the solanoid still works. i have bought a new unit now,so with a little advice it should be sorted. given up the idea of using the little output i still have from the unit, theres not enough currant to work anything. cheers pete

yea im not sure whats happened to the unit. im not up on circuits but im reading up on electrics now, its bloody confusing lol. the output was supposed to be negative 200ma max. i just thought it would act as the earth for the solanoid. but as i have read, its to do with the 200ma max. as i understand it, the positive charge returns to the battery through the negative alarm output, so technically its a return input. its all too confusing. but i still have something there when i press the boot release button. i have made lots of measurments with my multimeter. just need some genius to work out what it all means. im just hoping with a few resistors or some easy gadget, i can get it to work. otherwise its about £50 for a new unit. not that much i know, but i dont even know if its the way the alarm was set up when it s installed thats causing the problem. i might put a new unit in, and its still the same. please if you know an electrical genius, give me a shout. cheers pete

hi again. does anyone know a lot about electrics? its a long story. im trying to connect a boot solanoid to my scorpion sa30 alarm. i first connected the negative 200ma output direct to the solanoid.it worked the once. but as it didnt work after that i knew i had done something wrong. ive been told by doing that i have damaged the alarm unit? but im still getting an output when i press the key fob. ive bought a multimeter but not sure if im using it right. if i am, im getting about 4.7v and 1.5ma . could this be right.? the meter dial is set on 20m currant when i test it. i earth it to the car body. as its a10 to 20ms output, its not easy to raed the meter. first i need to know if im using the meter correctly and if so, can increase the currant and/ or voltage enough to work a reed relay or something.? hope someone knows their stuff. cheers pete