Brendan

Yep and when you win the first thing they'll do is re administer the test correctly i bet. Now they won't know you have adjusted your exhaust so you can be smug and say i told you it was legal.

I wouldn't do this, I mean tell them you have made the exhaust quieter. The reason being after all this they WILL retest your car, the police are petty like that, when they test it at the lower rev limit and it passes, you have an even bigger point of saying "I told you so" it'll shut the smug bastards up.

you're right there, just don't understand why Norfolk wants to smell of cow poo rather than the perfumed aroma of Essex

This is good advise regardless of how loud your car is or is not, too many web fingered inbreds round there......

Interesting, will be following this as the GTO at 3/4 revs will shake your windows, unfortunately 3/4 revs 5250 and it makes max power at 6000rpm so falls into the 375 test. Now that is much MUCH quieter, but going back to the difference in testing methods ie drive by and static, i can without doubt say the GTO is much quieter under load....

This is how I see it: Car built for the Japanese market = JDM Car built for the Japanese market and modified with Japanese parts/brands = JDM Car built for the Japanese market and modified with non Japanese parts/brands = JDM but diluted somewhat. Car not built for Japanese market = Japanese car Car not built for Japanese market and modified with Japanese parts/brands = JDM styled Japanese car Car not built for Japanese market and modified with non Japanese parts/brands = modified Japanese car

What annoys me more is when people claim parts are JDM when they're just late spec/facelifts parts available across the globe. For a car to be JDM in my opinion, it should have been originally sold in Japan, as the JDM models all have a different (normally better) spec' compared to the Europeon/USDM equivalent. However to keep a "JDM" car JDM once imported it needs to be modified with Japanese parts. Too often I see nice cars fitted with cheap Ripspeed/ebay toot. If you want to modify it, use jap brands like HKS, TEIN, Kakimoto etc, only then will your car stay true to being JDM In my opinion.

My 2p's worth GTO gearbox is shockingly bad, buy one which has had a rebuild or factor in £1k+ at some point to have it done. Lots of gizzmos to go wrong on the mk1, as time went on a lot/all of the gizzmos were removed. A good mk2 should be around £4k any less then be prepared to fix stuff. A good mk1 should be around £2.5-3k As for the drive, I love mine, in fact i love it enough to not go back to a GT4, the power delivery is better due to more torque and sound of a V6 is just awesome

air horn compressor, musical one at that: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-TRIPLE-LOUD-AIR-HORN-SET-TONE-CAR-TRUCK-VAN-MUSICAL-/170665603681?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item27bc767261#ht_3279wt_1037

compressor for air horns and yes i'm being serious

similar in price to Falken F542's which i have on the CS they've been faultless in the dry wet and they're pretty grippy n the snow to

or you could try getting the clip that's missing and fitting it

Try taking the 2 bits to a motor factors (uni part etc) they may have a copy or one similar enough to get you home. NOt sure where you are in Brighton but heres a few i just found on the net for you try if you want. Unipart 50 Ellen Street Brighton and Hove, Hove 01273 779 973 Brighton Motor Factors 74 Saint George's Road Brighton and Hove, Brighton 01273 699 626 Camberly Auto Factors 196 Old Shoreham Rd Units 6 - 7, Hove, Sussex 01273 775488 Express car parts 8 Burrell Road Haywards Heath 01444 457575

Gidz on the GT4OC has some on his ST205, PM him over there mate

Fixed it for you

This whole thread to me just reads like you're trying to convince yourself to get a loan and buy another car and you're just looking for people to say yeah go do it. Personally, I think a GT4 is out of your financial reach in both terms of purchase and running costs, one major problem and you'd be without a car which I don't think is a situation you can cope with that well. Honestly, your best bet is save up and hope this car lasts till you got enough for another one.

Can't believe this thread is still alive!! lol From what I've read it's an easy choice, and i came to the conclusion as follows: Can you afford a GT4? No as you'd have to get a loan Can you afford to V6 your current car? (ignoring the fact it would be similar in cost to a GT4 and not as good performance wise) No as you'd have to get a loan Is your car's value as a whole enough to buy a GT4? No Is your car in parts worth enough to buy a GT4? Not a good one, so no (plus by the sounds of things its too nice to break and/or too much hassle to put back to standard) Conclusion? Finish paying your current loan, stop being an idiot and talking about more debt, instead, enjoy driving the car you have and once the loan has finished, put the money you were paying each month into your savings till you have enough to buy a GT4 or whatever car it is you want by then. Simples.

Has the head been re-torqued since it was re-fitted after the HG change?

Assuming you can afford to run a GT4, the only reson to change to one would be to have more power and grip. If you're happy with a "nippy" car that understeers then keep what you got. If you want a car that feels like it's on rails and will make your stomach churn when you mash the loud pedal, then get a GT4. Simples

Other end John the bit behind you not the female part