Alan Clogwyn

lighter fluid, petrol, label remover, autoglym tar remover, all much the same thing and will all work.

Which caliper bolt? the little ones that you undo to change pads or the big ones that hold the whole thing to the car?

I know, unfortunately I ran over a cat and broke it! I'll be getting a Polyurethane one this time though instead of ABS. Some seriou transformations going on in this thread!

LEDs don't draw anywhere near enough current to pop fuses, ever! You have a wiring problem.

Grey Celica on day of purchase: (after removal of tints and a much needed wash though) And in final form... The Brown one... (I know no different hardly, all the mods I made were mostly hidden) Civic... Day of purchase... Now: And finally with the current correct bumper and broken splitter:

She did but preferred the Civic I had before the Celicas and the Almera I had in between.

NO! Use Red Rubber (lithium Glycol) Grease, you have no way of knowing what the formulation of any other grease is and whether it'll kill the rubber. If you don'thave any then clean brake fluid will do for the piston seals. Under no circumstances use any other kind of oil or grease on pistons themselves, whilst a split boot is not ideal the sliders aren't anywehre near as important as the pistons.

It takes great skill to match paint, especially if metallic. Rmember each mix requires x quantity of this and y quantity of that, what happens if a little bit of x or y gets stuck in the rim of the tin, or proprotionally more x than y gets stuck or drips? Yes you get a very very slight variation. Not to mention the paint being matched has had a few years of sunlight, causing it to change, plus then theres the actual spraying technique. This is no issue with flat colours, but on metallics is critical to getting a match. Unless the pain is sprayed in the exact same manner as the original then the 'grain' of the paint (the mica flecks) will not match the same pattern for density or direction and will make the paint look different, regardless of whether the colour is spot on. On a dull day in the rain you'd never know my car is 3 different shades, but in certain angles of sun it's glaringly obvious.

Offset is noted as 14 in the description. That's very sticky outy.

They will want the VAT plus a charge for having to charge you the VAT.

Tyre choice is THE most important thing you can do to look after your car and more importantly yourself inside and others around you. Forget your brakes, your suspension or your steering, none of these work without DECENT rubber between them and the road. Why oh why did Yokohama stop the A086? that was a brilliant tyre wet or dry. I'm running Falken ZE912s, good allrounder, I'd swear that they actually grip better on a slightly damp road than dry though, maybe they don't like dust. When did I fit them, Easter? can't remember but I've never had any major complants with them, a little ABS action on wet emergency braking and a couple of instances of minor wheelspin again on wet roads, they have quite soft sidewalls so you feels like you're getting a bit more understeer when in reality the tyre's just shifting it's not actually come unstuck yet. Wouldn't say they werre the ultimate tyre but they're certainly consistent all round.

if it's going over filled holes and dinks then yes it'll be fine as you'll get a thicker coat on, which you'd then have to sand most of it off again in order to smooth it flat. I can get a perfectly smooth finish with a brush, but it's still not as perfect as sprayed though, and never will be. The amount of effort required to achieve it is also far greater - paint has to be the percect consistency, brush has to be the right material and new, then the weather has to be just right... I'd suggest if you already have mint paintwork as described, leave it the hell alone, when it comes to selling your car again, No one with half a brain cell will look at ypur brush and roller paint job and hand over any money for it.

Try mine you'll think your Celica had four pots! What I didn't like about my Celica - running costs and agre related reliability issues.

On a budget I can certainly reccomend ZE912s. Very good all round tyre, nice cornering grip in the wet but traction and braking isn't class leading but adequate. Quite soft sidewalls, on my Civic wth it's high tyre profile you can really feel them keeling over on hard cornering, never let go though.

Just thought - Was it called K seal after a notoriously head gasket failure prone, well known British Car manufacturer's engine?

Is it Angus who pedals that picture of the gunked up cylinder head caused by these cowboy cure all potions?

Super fine emery cloth and oil, just keep at it, THEN another few hours with the Autosol. Then a quick autosol polish up weekly.

You can't, the clockspring inside is basically worn out, you'd have to re forge it and trust me fiddling with one of them is no fun at all.

I grew up in Gen 3 and 4. 7 isn't much different though less headroom. Can't see a kid complaining about that though.

Falken ZE912s great all rounders, no texceptional in any areas, not bad anywhere either, just nice and consistent and not too pricey.

Nooo! Link won't work! I wanna see the freak!

You're buggered now, should have done that one first! How's the itching?

File it, but file the dizzy end not the cam, the cams will be hardened and will take you forever!

They look like very recent rebuilds, they are in far too good condition to have been on a car for 15 years.

To me I see a night and day difference - just look at the way the light scatters like a matte surface in the first, and how it blends smoothly like a wet glossy surface afterwads... Now wax it - weekly!