rpsmith79

If only he wasn't at the opposite end of the country

Looks like the engine is goosed, Dom reckons bottom end has gone I have got an engine lined up, but it won't be available for a few weeks at least, then the fun of fitting it

I hope not Hou I had another good listen to it today after work, and i'm 90% sure it's coming from the top end But i think i may have sourced myself a spare engine, just need to wait till it's available and figure out how/where i'm going to fit it

Yeah, i really need to check with a different gauge i think But as said, it all started with hearing the rattle and feeling of slight loss of power, and then checking the compression is the first and easiest thing to do

That is what i am thinking, Dom is coming over tomorrow to have a look

The rattle is only when on throttle, and a brief rattle on cold start

Could be onto something here, i was running at 0 degrees for the first few hundred miles due to a mix up when initially setting the timing A bit of background info, this was a reconditioned engine that was fitted at the tail end of last year, it was running fine but has now developed a rattle at high revs, and does seem to be lacking in power, previously it had been running fine

I put oil down one of the bores and it made no difference And yes i'm running a standard head gasket on a skimmed head The bores were honed and new rings were fitted

Today i have been trying to diagnose my recent engine problems, so i did a compression test, but the results are all really low across all cylinders 100, 100, 105, 105 What does this mean, i know they should be around the 160-170 mark, they are all close, but all really low The only thing i can think that would cause this is incorrect timing, either that or simultaneous failures across all cylinders (which is highly unlikely) Any other ideas welcomed

On track, weight is King, or lack of to be more precise Removing unsprung weight has a doubling effect over removing sprung weight

You might find this site useful Ant http://www.wheelweights.net/ Although no Inovits on there unfortunately

Is the clearance on the diameter or the width, remember they are 8" wide

Or you could have a look at my Enkei's http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/139695-alloy-wheels-enkei-16x8-lightweight-forged-wheels/

Well i got the finishing touches from Slugster (121 Signs) though the post yesterday, and now got the tyres fitted, and this is how they look now

Do the holes have a taper, if so then yes the tapered nuts should be fine They might feel odd due to the fresh refurb and the layer of paint/powdercoat that needs to be worn away to get decent metal to metal contact with the nut It is always recommended to re-torque your nuts in a few days after fitting newly refurbed wheels due to this exact problem

Just waiting for the final addition from Slugster, will post up pics when they arrive, then i just need to get the tyres on

I think i've started a new look JDM/Euro Fusion FTMFW y0!!!!

Well i still have the all white set, and with this just being a vinyl strip i can always take it off if i decide i don't like it, they might look completely different with the tyres and decals on anyway

Yeah i can't decide if white or black ENKEI decals would work best

Well Wrappers De-Lite has comes out of retirement for one last job, just wanting to get thoughts before i carry on doing the rest of the wheels As some of you may know, i got hold of a second set of Enkei RP01's that i was having refurbed, well i finally got them back from the powdercoaters And i have always liked the black version they do with the blue rim tape And since my car is red, i thought i have a go at adding a lip to mine in red I will also be adding some ENKEI decals like i did on my other set What do you think, Winning or Failing?????

As has been said above, preparation is key, best thing i found was Isopropyl alcohol, or panel wipes It also took me 3 attempts at wrapping my interior before i managed to do it without it peeling or bubbling when i first started out wrapping, interior parts are the worst though due to the greenhouse effect and the sustained heat on warm days Also, once you have wrapped the part, give it a good blast of heat to make the vinyl cure/set to the shape you have wrapped it over

PM Nemesis, he is the most likely to be able to sort you out

I'm only on year 3, but sill no sign of getting rid any time soon

Have a look at rspec, i bought cheap gauges first, they last less than a year, then i bought these rspec ones, very good quality stepper motor driven gauges at a reasonable price http://rspec.co.uk/performance-gauges As for analogue or digital, i always prefer analogue as you can read them at a glance, or at least see if they are approaching dangerous levels at a glance, you would have to actually read the digital gauge and know what was a dangerous level to know if you were approaching it (if that makes sense)

Ha ha ha, loving the "Hella Fail" comment