Heepsy92 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) so even more bad luck! but I'm unsure on some things. I bought these drop links so unsure how they are insecure, he said they look like they are the incorrect drop links. The exhaust has a major leak but I don't notice any difference in noise. If the handbrake grabbing wouldn't I feel this as well? Also I'm unsure how to check this one so some advice would be great. Slowly losing the will to live, bad luck comes in three's just waiting for the next one now so I'm now going down in the rain to have a look at some of these things myself and see if they are easy fixes hopefully they are. Edited March 6, 2014 by Heepsy92 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublet Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 The drop link nutss probably just need to be tightened to their specified torque. The exhaust can probably be patched up easily, otherwise it's a case of replacing the section. It's also possible you just need some new rear brake shoes, or that they just need cleaning out. Or both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slybunda Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 looks like very easy fixes there, with just tightening up of nuts and bolts. the rear brakes will require the discs to come off or possibly not, if its catching on one side you could rotate the cog thingy to bring the shoes in more. although id take the disc off and clean everything up, if they have been dragging for a while the shoes may need to be replaced but they are cheapo from places like euro carparts etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick_66 Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Martin thats not a bad list m8, as above some adjusting of rear brakes or clean up. exhaust middle to rear may be just a gasket ? again quite a cheap fix, and drop links , even if you ve to replace them all , not an expensive . A couple of hours work m8. If your needing a hand gimme shout. not too far away from you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Chris_ Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Did the drop links come with new nylok nuts, and if so did you tighten them fully or stop when they just kept turning the joint ? You need to use an allen key in the middle to hold the bolt part while you tighten the nut with a spanner. I'm a bit puzzled by point 2 saying 'adjustable locking device insecure. This implies a locking device insecure rather than links. Is it and adjustable rear anti-roll bar ? point 3 - if the leak is near the back then it probably won't make that much noise. On a cat test would probably make it fail on lambda high (weak). From the sheet I'd guess is on the joint between middle & rear sections in which case undo it and fit a new gasket or use exhaust jointing compund. Point 4 - jack the wheel up using a stable (trolley) jack or put on axle stands. Release handbrake and try turning the wheel, it will probably be sticking somewhere during the rotation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heepsy92 Posted March 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Martin thats not a bad list m8, as above some adjusting of rear brakes or clean up. exhaust middle to rear may be just a gasket ? again quite a cheap fix, and drop links , even if you ve to replace them all , not an expensive . A couple of hours work m8. If your needing a hand gimme shout. not too far away from you I might take you up on that Mick, going to give DIY car services a phone/text see if i can get some ramp time for next week, hate working in this rain. Did the drop links come with new nylok nuts, and if so did you tighten them fully or stop when they just kept turning the joint ? You need to use an allen key in the middle to hold the bolt part while you tighten the nut with a spanner. I'm a bit puzzled by point 2 saying 'adjustable locking device insecure. This implies a locking device insecure rather than links. Is it and adjustable rear anti-roll bar ? point 3 - if the leak is near the back then it probably won't make that much noise. On a cat test would probably make it fail on lambda high (weak). From the sheet I'd guess is on the joint between middle & rear sections in which case undo it and fit a new gasket or use exhaust jointing compund. Point 4 - jack the wheel up using a stable (trolley) jack or put on axle stands. Release handbrake and try turning the wheel, it will probably be sticking somewhere during the rotation. I think he meant the bolts not sure, couldn't get the wheels off the car today or get the jack because my dad took the shed key to work because he forgot to take the key off his keys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick_66 Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hate to tell you martin Diy aint there no more , but your welcome to come over here , we'll sort it in couple of hours. I can do monday after around 10am or any time tuesday next week . ps how u get on with coppers coming round Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skatz114 Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Drop links are the same ones I've got on mine bud so they should be ok if they're fitted right! As prevoiusly said, nothing major in that list. I think my brake shoes were about £18 on ebay last year so not hellish expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slybunda Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 eurocarparts part number: 102820228 for the rear shoes, cost just over 14 quid delivered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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