digs Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) Hi, I'm fitting a turbo (CT26) to my 3SFE. The wastegate actuator is hitting the outermost metal waterbypass pipe for coolant system. See this diagram below, It hits the righthand side of the front pipe. To fit the turbo I need to remove part of that pipe. It looks like it's easier to actually cut it on the left hand side, where it separates from the pipe behind. My plan was to cut it on the left and right hand side, remove and run a new pipe in it's place, that has enough flex to fit around where the actuator will then sit. My question is assumedly these are metal due to heat as run next the exhaust manifold. Will high temperature hose be ok ? As I need it flexible enough to move out the way of the actuator. But don't want it to melt! Any good tips? Edited March 17, 2013 by digs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 These are the two pipes I plan to remove and replace with hosing, what could go wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtoycelica Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 I was wondering could you take those pipes to a metal worker/fabricator and have them reshaped to fit as instead of being next to each other they come down on top of each other and swing down behind the gearbox to give you more room? I also think keeping them metal would be a better idea as the heat right next to the manifold will be very high expecially with a turbo there as well image the temp rise when giving it a boot full when up to temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 cheers, no one else seems to have had this issue so wandering if something isn't lined up.... I am worried about temps and a split hose (bye bye coolant!) - will poke about tomorrow to see how the pipes are all set up in terms of being able to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtoycelica Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Another thought is it possible to rotate the turbo so the wastegate actuator isnt that side like the super charger boys do when the intake hose is pointing in the wrong direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adex Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 You could cut the flange off your old (fe) manifold & use it as a spacer. You've already got the parts (bar an extra gasket), & then you'll not have to mess with anything else. No knock on problems at all then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Cheers guys! Had thought of clocking turbo but that doesn't move the actuator as clocked on compressor side...I believe. Like the spacer idea, neat. Will take a look at the bits tomorrow like you say, no future issues, assuming doesn't push downpipe to far forward Thanks for the ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adex Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 The spacer's what I'd look into definitely. See with a lot of mods, the ones you want to do can mean you end up doing 5 other mods that you have to do! Clocking the compressor housing will mean the outlet points down (or wherever), but you'll need to fab a bracket to hold the actuator in it's original position so it operates the wastegate as it should. You'd be facing exactly the same problem as before (only with neater boost piping options available to you). I'd be surprised if spacing the whole manifold out by the width of a flange (8-10mm?) would screw up your downpipe alignment more than your flexi could cope with anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtoycelica Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 I like adexs idea to I made a downpipe for mine as a temporary thing till I got a new one and got my weilding a bit off by abou 10mm and the flexy took up the difference easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 It's not the connection to exhaust that might be an issue, as its miles out anyway, but the downpipe hitting the rad fan but think it should be ok with a spacer Yeah, and the other bits like dropping the crossmember just to get the damn oil pan out! For one little bolt.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adex Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) Right, I've just done a bit of research for you & given a spare fe manifold I have a look over. It's a 1 piece casting with a formed flange section around 15mm thick. Now removing the branches & making the mating surface perfectly flat will be a lot of work & very difficult, so.... Click me. If only everything in life was that easy, eh? Edited March 17, 2013 by Adex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtoycelica Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Wow yea good find that adex I wish I could find stuff that quick. I have a sump pan u can have digs with a oil drain for a turbo already in it pointing towards the rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adex Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Only other thing you may need to think about is longer studs or swapping to bolts. The flange in the link is 0.4" so 10.16mm so without knowing how much clearance is needed, this looks like a good bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 (edited) Hi cheers for the offer but have one already Awesome find! :D will need to measure up the studs but fair amount from remembering was still exposed (car is not outside at moment) Will measure up tomorrow and report back Edited March 17, 2013 by digs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adex Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 It's worth pointing out that OBX make a few different DIY flanges, so have a browse & see which will be best for your needs. The one in the link is for a USDM 5SFE so check it's good for your c/head stud pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Yeah, will do, and thanks for checking, really appreciate it (everyone on here is always so helpful). Once this is done hopefully can help others myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adex Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 Genuinely my pleasure. Projects like yours & the mentality which motivates them is 100% what I signed up for. Sure, lobbing in a pre-turbo'd lump is easier, but doing it yourself to create something special is what it's all about. I had the honour of being let loose in a DIY turbo'd ST (I forget the guy's username) at a meet a few years back & loved it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) That must have been fun! Measured up, the spacer concept is a good un but switching to a spacer between the manifold and turbo now, as new manifold studs would be needed, happier removing the ones from the turbo than the engine in case one breaks off. Now downpipe hits radiator fan so off to work on that one Edited March 18, 2013 by digs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggy Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 That must have been fun! Measured up, the spacer concept is a good un but switching to a spacer between the manifold and turbo now, as new manifold studs would be needed, happier removing the ones from the turbo than the engine in case one breaks off. Now downpipe hits radiator fan so off to work on that one can you fit a slimmer fan maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digs Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 That's what I'm thinking, there is going to be around 50mm space so will take a look for one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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