ams

I would start with fixing the issues you are having, rather than taking the engine out. I see cars too often where people go down a route of trying to fix something and end up causing more issues and then it becomes a bigger job that no one wants to touch. I bought a gen5 a couple of years back that was a non runner, previous owner had done multiple things to try and fix it, but ended up causing more problems. Fixed the actual original problem quite quickly but am now trying to figure out what else he has touched and have found 5 things that he had put wrong when trying to find the actual issue but still not got to the bottom of what else he has played with.

it goes to the air box normally the pipes look wrong - i need to check but think the valve is wrong way round

birmingham

inlet manifold should have been swapped over as corolla one wont fit properly cap sounds like corolla one

Dont think repair manual will help with your issue. Had a customer who took there car to toyota a few months back with a few issues, they recommended ECU so he called me up, I told him its not ECU but toyota insisted it was, he bought one and it didnt fix the problem, then they said it was loom, told him not likely but he bought one didnt fix the issue. Anyway after 4 weeks of Toyota having the car, I spoke to him on the phone for half an hour and the next day the car was fixed. Really needs going over properly as something probably isnt right from when the engines been swapped. The secondary air pump - if thats having issues it puts a large load on the battery - when they go bad they normally draw too much load and blow the fuse. Need to test the pump first and then check the valve from the manifold, and also check the vac pipes. But it might not be related to your issue. But given that the air injection only comes on when the car is cold it does kind of make sense...

if its been fitted properly - the bits that are different should have been swapped over (inlet manifold, water pipe on front and a couple of other things) Oil cap on the corolla is a round one (like a Facelift 140) rather than a knobly one as well but that could have been swapped over as well

fault wont be related to 420 which is cat but you mention secondary air - which is another code - can you check the code again please? Im guessing a vac pipe or air pump would be good place to start

good video - explains it better than I thought - looks like a loose connection somewhere to me - are there any pending codes?

Can you upload it to YouTube and post a link

if you can bring it over one sat morning - only thing is if it doesnt do it when its warm im not going to see it

Any chance of getting someone to film it. It sounds like its when you are coming off the accelerator it starts to kangaroo?

yes and after you try that, try another test where you give it a bit more gas as you let the clutch out (almost as if you are riding the clutch)

perhaps the juddering is causing it to stall , its a hard one to diagnose without seeing it Try this when its cold, change gear as you normally would but leave it in neutral for a few seconds before going into gear and see if it happens in those few seconds or if its only when you then go into gear The OEM clutch is fine for an unboosted car as long as you dont ride it

From my experience it will be the clutch rather than the mounts, once warmed up they are a bit better What make was the clutch and how many miles have you done since - they do take a while for them to bed in - I dont fit the competition clucthes anymore as most people dont really like them after they are fitted. Why did you fit a competition clutch?

is it clutch judder - if so could be oil on the plate , worn mounts or worn clutch

what do you mean by hard shift? Is it like the car is stalling?

Have you done anything to the car since the problem started?

You don't have a strut brace that is shorting against the battery?

Is it the original key? is the battery loose?

1zz one is short - thats the one you have - denso is OEM (nothing wrong with NGK normally)

its the inner back plate that will be gone New ones are silly money (£250 a side last time I checked) I have some used ones - drop me a PM if you need them

they might not have seen it until it was removed what part is it - and how much was it?

if it aint broke dont fix it engines that have had regular oil changes are generally good inside. If you want to do something extra, drop the sump and clean it out and clean the gauze

pile the up on top of each other? surely wont save that much space with that stand

at the end of the day at 10- 16 years old - if its not been looked after then it could be a shed - and a lot of what you mentioned comes down to maintenance had mine for 12 years and put 244,000 miles on top of the 20,000 it had and its never let me down - I actually think if it did then Id be able to buy a new car but its hard to let go of something that is so reliable hopefully we can help but at least some of the niggles right easily also the comments about buying an earlier gen celica are usually from people who have never owned a 7