Limeymk1
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Posts posted by Limeymk1
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"A thoroughly amiable eclectic (n) of indeterminate age & gender forming one part of an exceptionally diverse socio-economic, genetic, religious,and ethnic multi-generational single model, car club"
Something for the front page?
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38 and work for the Navy (Civvy) as an Occupational Toxicologist. The SS3 is loud, thrown about the corners when safe to do so and occasionally tracked for giggles. I have been told that maybe I should maybe think about getting a 'sensible' car......................... bollocks to that!
Plus how many fun cars can you fit all your tools and an engine hoist into the boot?Round here, the gen 7s are mostly driven by ladies and every gen 6 I've seen is driven by men. There's only one gen 5 left locally (that I've seen), a GT4 driven by a chap in his 20s.
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Usually pretty minimal if you change the oil filter as well, I tend to leave the oil draining while I do a few other jobs.
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They'll be covered in brake dust in a few days so get the cheapest.
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Just to confirm you can lift the steering rack up with the rod ends still attached, it does also help to unbolt the crossmember as it gives a bit extra wiggling scope.
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Just done a gen 6 rear mount. Took 3 hours but next time when I do mine I recon you could do it in half that. Pig of a job tbh had to drop the subframe on one side and remove the crossmember! Will be doing mine soon can't wait to get a set of these fitted.
Front one is a piece of piss compared to the rear
To do the rear mount on the Gen6 I found the easiest way is to remove the front mount throughbolt so the engine can move. Then remove the exhaust hanger from the rear mount (4 x 12mm bolts, 1 x 12mm nut), remove rear torque mount through bolt and the 3 bolts underneath.
As Ben found the rear mount won't come out in this state, however instead of dropping the whole subframe you can remove the 2 bolts that secure the steering rack to the subframe, then lift the rack up and rest it on the brackets it's mounted to. this with a little engine rocking will give enough clearance to get the mount out.
When I did this reassembling things from a clutch change the rack ends were detatched from the hubs so I'm not 100% if the steering rack will lift when they are still attached. I'll find out when I replace my torque mounts this weekend with the above set.
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Take the code in and get them to search their system if they don't have them in stock. They're not in the most obvious packaging, just a white box about 20x10x10 cm with little in the way of markings.
Half the time the Halfrauds kiddies have no idea what they have on the shelves, let alone what they can get. -
This is what I have on my Enkeis:
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Halfrauds do sets of steel, silver, tuner nuts for £20. It's where I got mine from. The plating is coming off a bit after about 18 months but they're still good.
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Very, very cool!
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Used it to glue down the wood trim round the floorboards in my house so works on that too.
What cure rate did your hubby use?
Oh and Matt if you need a stand to put the bumper on I have a couple of bodyshop panel stands if you need one.
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http://stores.ebay.co.uk/waysideadhesivesdirect/
Not sure how much you'll need. Get the longer curing adhesive, the 60 second stuff is not easy to work with. Says on the ad there are 3 cure rates the longest is 3.5 mins which may be too long, no sign of the mid range.
I've got an applicator gun if you need to borrow one.
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Have a look at:
www.polevolt.co.uk or www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/
as a good source for loom wire, I've used both and they're good suppliers.
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Had a lovely hoon home from Gatwick on Sunday evening, reminded me why I like the battered old beast so much. Not much traffic on the A272 and those that were there and going slow were soon dispatched. Handled beautifully and sounded like a banshee with toothache when the revs got up above 5k.
I should have left a little later in hindsight as I got home just as the Cup final was starting.
I did get a thumbs up and a 'nice car' from another driver on Saturday but it doesn't really count as he was driving another black gen 6.
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My N reg import uses R134a.
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Pretty much bang on 2 years now. Cosmetically looking pretty sorry for herself at the moment, mechanically not too bad. There's a long list of things that could be done to make her more presentable but I wonder if it's really worth the time and money.
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My 162, Edwardios and Munkys SC gen7s have/had systems built by them, recommended
Aye they did the manifolds for my V6 conversion on the MR2.
MIJ must have seriously gone down hill since I last spoke to anyone about them.
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I think I'm going to give up on a ss exhaust.
Can I just paint the existing one? Will the VHT engine paint at the front be okay on the back?
If I hadn't been in a rush to replace my disintigrating HKS system and strapped for cash I would have gone with a Mongoose or a custom system from Fast Road Conversions (Powerspeed) in Kent they really do know what they are doing.
Oh and it was Walsall not Warwick. These guys have always been well regarded with the folks I know
http://www.mijexhaust.com/ go and have a chat and see what they can do for you.
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Thread revival.
Can anyone recommend somewhere where I can buy an exhaust back box and pipes to oem spec for my gen 5, but in stainless steel?
Only way to do that would be to go to a fabricator and get them to copy the OEM layout & bore. However the difficulty would come with the silencers/backbox, finding ones that would give the same performance as OEM. If I remember correctly there is a very good exhaust fabricator in Warwick, I will see if I can dig up their details.
Also bear in mind that the exhaust in stainless will weigh a lot less than OEM so there may be issues with resonance of the system due to the damping system/suspension being set up for a heavier system. My cheapy Jap speed exhaust is bloody awful on the motorway for the drone it causes, I've had a bigger center silencer put in and it helped a little but I think it's a combined issue of weight, fit and a rubbish back box. Next step for me is going to be adding some damping weights to the pipe to change the resonant frequency of the system.
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individual throttle bodies. or ITB's are the best intake modification you can do to a normally aspirated engine. would love some for mine but they are very expensive for the full set up. but the noise is simply epic!
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Haven't washed my 6 for a couple of weeks now so it's starting to look decidedly camoflaged.
Will be giving the dirty old wench some attention this weekend methinks.
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Cool, cheers dude I need new rears.
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Where did you get them from Dan?
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Just wanted to a some tyre feedback for ST202 owners who still run the stock tyre size 205/55/R15.
These are getting considerably more difficult to source from reputible brands.
For years the best all-rounders were Goodyear NCT5's which, despite their generic pattern, performed surprisingly well up to 8/10's in all weathers. However they're not a sports tyre and don't inspire much confidence in the front-end when pushing-on. Even these have now all but disappeared.
Fortunately Dunlop have come to the rescue in the shape of their SP Sport FastResponse.
Supposedly this is an Audi fit - specifically for the A1 - however I've done a few thousand miles with a pair on the front and been very happy with their performance.
Wet weather grip is similar to the NCT5's but with slightly stiffer sidewalls. In push-on driving especially in the dry they are a significant step forward giving more confidence to lean on them into the heart of a corner. The only downside I've seen so far is they're a little keener to follow road imperfections though this is still minor.
When I ran up Prescott in 2012 I had SP's on the front and NCT5's the rear. I could really attack right through the corners - far more than I would have dared with NCT5's all round.
Experience with a previous car means that if I was to change wheel size I'd be hunting for Goodyear F1's. I've always found them very progressive and communicative when getting near their limit which is great for fast road use. This is partially due to a softish sidewall (Gen2 F1's) which also means they wear pretty quickly.
I tried T1-R's but the stiffer side-wall is more unforgiving in marginal conditions which is not my preference.
It's worth noting comparing tyre performance between different cars on the same rubber will not necessarily yield the same characteristics. Weight distribution alone will have a major influence.
From MyTyres, there's still a fair amount of choice for the stock sizes, a couple that stand out are the Rainsports and the Vredestein Sportrac 3s & 5s.
I've got the Vredesteins 3s and really rate them in the wet and have used them on the track too with no complaints what so ever, have just bought a new pair of Vred 5s to pop on the rear.
Spark plugs
in Consumable Parts
Posted
For NOS you'll need to go to a NON projected nose plug and a colder grade from what I recall.
I didn't bother changing to non projected nose on my 4A-GE when switchng from 25bhp jets to 50 bhp and it melted the tips off a plug and blew holes through a couple of exhaust valves.