spotv6

me too

basicly what people are advising is .. you are in no position to pay off any loans or credit cards! the Citizens Advice will help you by telling your creditors that at this moment in time you cannot pay ANY intrest or payments due to the fact you no longer have an income !! get in touch with the c.a.b immediately to arrange an appointment!!

definately ring the garage sounds like something hasnt been put in properly?

i dont allow wet passengers works for me

funnily enough i dont think i am being stupid !! what i do believe is stupid is toyota still thinking that parts for a car that is now worth peanuts,that they still have millions of parts lying in parts bins all over the world,should be retailed at the same prices (plus inflation)as when the vehicles were relatively new :rolleyes: i dont think anywhere i stated that they didnt know their arse from their elbow?? the problem i have found is that what used to be called mechanics are now called technicians! technicians replace parts ----mechanics repair cars seems like a good 50/50 split on experiences some good some bad keep em coming

thought it may be a good idea to start a new thread to give some ideas for the guys who work at toyota dealerships to have some real customer feedback. on another thread a couple of the guys were saying that they believe that toyota technicians and dealerships dont really overcharge,and that i shouldnt really state that all dealerships are the same. so i will state a couple of instances that i have experienced and lets see if i am all on my lonesome. first taste i had of a toyota dealership was my local one who at the time were also mazda /saab and renault main agents. was quoted £700+ parts for a clutch replacement on a renault and £175 + parts for replacement speedo cable. the reasononing behind this extortion was that the engine would have to be dropped to replace the clutch . took it to a clutch specialist who funnily enough managed to do both jobs with genuine parts for the grand total of £350 now my experiences with toyota dealers............. replacement caliper x1 for 16 year old vehicle £270+ vat!! compared to 2x calpers fully refurbished with all new parts £170inclusive another funny one was replacement plug i was actually told (with a straight face!!!)that they couldnt sell me a part but the only option was to buy a new loom for the bargain price of just over £400!!! so lets hear all the loyal toyota customers regaling their local dealerships for their fantastic value for money service

this HAS to be a wind up??

flock it!!

the only thing i dont like ??? errrrrrrr no anything i didnt like ive either replaced -re-made or modified edit... dont like the fact she didnt come with an eighth day every week to mess with her must have been the only optional extra i didnt have

Well done mick i wont bother buying it as ive heard some bloke in a black and white sports car has been covering his bedroom wall in all the copies he can find i will pick up a copy and have a gander hey mister "how fast does it go???"

a d/a polisher will always do a better job than by hand trust me

if you are worried about burning your paint with a rotary . just spend a little more and get a decent branded dual action polisher ive had a couple of the top name ones and by far for ease of use and resultant shine the maguires da polisher is the best bet for results and ease of use

thats what i do as well works perfectly

i cant say that this is a constructive test of the durability of flocking but......... i had to throw away a tee shirt that despite 3 washes still had a lovely light grey stripe where i had leaned against some glue while flocking and my main job is ........ i own a fencing business supplying/ erection make gates etc etc which does keep me rather busy but is where the pennies come from cheeky

holy thread revival just to let people know i will be going corporate soon (must remember to tell bryan ) just waiting on an interiour to try out a few ideas so i will sort out some packages and prices with some pics of the finished articles (cos we all love pictures )

there is an engineer on 2brutal who has done quite a lot of work on porting and polishing called fourveesix being honest most of what he states is simply too technical for me but basicly dan it certainly isnt a job for an enthusiastic amateur he really does know his beans and the kind of gains you are talking about he would probably show you exactly how its simply impossible on a side note chop shop!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

just wanted to see what peoples opinions are and if we could all benefit from some informed choices when it comes to the infamous dyno results from different dynos. as those who drunkenly paricipated :rolleyes: in the infamous dyno runs at rising sun show will tell you the operators were using an etch a sketch to plot whatever results they thought apropriate :rolleyes: mick baileys results were ridiculously low compared to when he had his car set up my torque figures were just plain ridiculous and sj ended up with 2 completely different torque graphs for the same run! so leaving behind the flywheel versus wheels debate i think we should try and find the most accurate dynos and if we are going to arrange dyno days in the future lets try and use the same type of dyno once we get the definitive answer on what that type may be i cut and pasted this article for our perusal because it seems to give the clearest explanation of the different types of dyno available . the mustang dyno at raceshack in tewkesbury is where i had my standalone link set up but for referance only gives the actual wheel horsepower figures but i believe that the hub dyno or the dynanometer also give an accurate flywheel figure. so lets have our opinions pick out the best type of dyno and see where they are in the country. heres the article.... There are 2 main types of dyno, retarder dynos and inertia dynos. Inertia dynos use heavy rollers of a known mass. The wheel power of the car is used to accelerate the rollers as fast as possible. Given that the mass of the rollers is known, force = mass x acceleration allows you measure the rate of acceleration an thus calculate the force. The 2nd type of dyno is a retarder dyno. A retarder dyno uses a non contact eddy current brake to retard a light roller with little inertia. The dyno system allows the rollers to accelerate at a fixed rate when the power of the car is applied to them. This means if you dyno a 100bhp car, or a 1000bhp car, the acceleration rate is constant. A retarder dyno uses a load cell to calculate the tractive effort at the roller surface. Personally i much prefer retarder dynos. Dyno Dynamics, Mustang (new ones- old skool are inertia iirc), Mainline dyno log, and Land and Sea etc are retarder dynos. Maha, Hoffman, Dynojet etc are inertia. An inertia dyno is very dependant upon gear ratio. You need to run the car as close to 1:1 a possible. If you dont and say you run the car with a mechanical gearing advantage, say in like 2nd gear, the car will accelerate very fast, the rollers will accelerate very quickly due to the mechanical advantage of the gearing, and a huge power figure will be read. This means that the power number can be 'frigged' up or down by gear selection. Additionally, most inertia dynos calculate transmission loss via a coast down method. Lets say the test has been conducted in as close as 1:1 gear as possible, so the 'wheels' figure is as realistic as possible, however, then it can all get a bit sketchy. Irrespective of any debate about accuracy of coast down method, what happens if the operator does the coast down with the handbrake applied, or even the foot brake? You get a mahoosive flywheel number. Retarder dynos use direct measurement (via the load cell) and a controlled acceleration rate and most use modelling to transfer from wheel power to flywheel power, as opposed to coast down. I'll be 100% honest and tell you i have a dyno dynamics 4wd dyno- so of course i am gonna say its the best one- which of course i believe it is, but it is nearly double the price of some others. If you are gonna go and spend your money- you buy the best one there is. No point on getting one for less money that doesnt do the job as well. Irrespective of that though, i believe retarder type dynos are much superior to inertia. I regularly see cars coming in with dyno numbers from other types of machines. I saw one recently, dyno'd on one machine at 225bhp, dyno'd on mine at 160 ish (Flywheel). The customer commented that the guy at the first dyno then ran the car again (maybe in another gear) and generated 280bhp! Conversely i also see very similar results from other DD machines. I saw a golf with a supercharge conversion, dynod on another DD at 229BHP (fly) the operator had told him it went lean at high rpm, so matey had fitted a fuel reg and turned the base pressure up to 'fix' it. (I know, i know!) Dyno'd at 224BHP Fly on mine. AFR was pegged at 10 on both dyno sheets, but jumped to 16 at 5500rpm on the first one, and very slightly higher on the one i did. Cheers, Ben.

when the 300zx first came out i was working for a company whos 4 directors had them as company cars . within 3 months there was one left simply put -----lethal in the wet

looks a pretty simple mod if you have a BIG DRILL and a mahoosive set of cahoonas lets see.. purchase late spec lights stick in oven purchase some more lights turn down oven big drill out purchase some more lights etc etc etc

3 litre v6 ??? slightly modified £7k and the dog

in a word no but my time is in short supply at the moment

seems to be quite a lot of intrest i will work out some prices and get back to you all in a couple of weeks as its time to concentrate on the real business :rolleyes: but looks like i will be inflating the clubs coffers

as i said to a few people i was gonna train the lad to do it but as his beloved stoke shitty are now in european football you cant get any sense out of the little shit unless it involves balls wembley and how to get a plane to feckin moscow

many of you will have seen my flocked interiour at rs and i was asked by a few people if i would be willing to do parts for them . i am going to be doing the dashboard on a rally car soon for my paint sprayer (At this point he doesnt realise that he will be respraying my front end for free in exchange ) my ladies mate has a son who wants me to design and build him a boot build and he now desperately wants it flocking as well. so the question is do i bother with corporate membership or just e bay the bugger to get some of my money back. the quandry is really in 2 parts as i run quite a financially succesful but extremely time consuming business already.but i have a quite spell for a couple of months in winter (which is main modding time ) so when is everyone elses modding time?and would there be much interest in flocked items ? discuss

you are not alone ask anyone about faulty hid and 99% will say its the drivers side ballast. i had 2 replacement sets with the older big ballasts and both of them kept failing i now have slim canbus ballasts and have not had a problem since i still have some of the older ballasts somewhere in the shed but honestly its better to invest in the slimline canbus ones