G.Lewarne
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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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3 hours ago, planc said:
I thought the high level was bonded in place?
look at the underside of the hatch. there are two rubber grommets, one with cable going through. 10mm nuts underneath those, pops right out
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YES! YYYYEEEESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111oneone
I just fixed my super-annoying boot area popping noise. Has been doing my head in for months!
Finally got someone in the back listening, and we identified that my high level brake light was the cause. Unbolted it, bit of self adhesive velco underneath, bolted back up, ziptied its cable a bit more taught......BOOM NOISE GONE
Out of all the work ive done to my car, that has made me the happiest, LOL
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1 hour ago, celica1977 said:
blimey quite a shopping list , mine wont be as big as that but it will feel different to how it does now ....
yeah, like I said, mine may not be the prettiest or fastest, but she is definitely well built now. My intention is to have one of the best stock mechanical cars for shows and meets. Bodywork comes later. This is my first car that isn't made of rust and hope...so I'm looking after it!
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34 minutes ago, celica1977 said:
so mate how much did all that cost you approximately for all of the above
wow, that's quite the question, lets see if I can remember!
Front specific:
- Shocks x2 £110
- Bumpstops and shock boots x2 £25
- Wishbones x2 £90
- Balljoints x2 £30
- Topmounts x2 £90
- Droplinks x2 £25
- Track rod ends x2 £30
- Inner tie rods x2 £30
- Calipers x2 (re-manufactured) + sliders+boots £110
- Discs and pads £70
- ARB bushes x2 £10
Rear: Specific
- Shocks x2 £90
- Shock upper rubber mounts x2 £20
- Trailing arms + hub carriers x2 between me and AMS
- Droplinks x2 £30
- ARB bushes x2 £10
- Wheel bearing / hub units x2 £45
- Brand new calipers inc sliders + bolts £110
- Discs and pads £50
- Handbrake shoes £17 + fitting kit £10
- New rear subframe £170
- Camber arms x2 between me and AMS
- New camber bolts, complete set x2 - £60
- New *other* suspension bolts £30
All round:
- Lowering springs, AMAX, £37
- Full geometry alignment £39
Engine:
- AC Compressor - from AMS, don't remember price
- AC Re-Gas £35
- Radiator £75
- Water pump £35
- Serpentine tensioner spring + pulley + belt £35
- Pre and Post CAT Denso lambda sensors, £56 each
- Exhaust back box
- New Denso MAF
- Coolant Temp Sensor
+ usual service bits
Probably missed a lot of stuff out
Every part, other than those supplied by AMS is brand new. All work carried out by myself, apart from the AC re-gas and alignment. Most of the new parts are from only three suppliers so all quality stuff. Generally Delphi, ADL Blueprint and Solid Ace. Others are Toyota OEM or whatever ImportCarParts supply, which is always good quality. Radiator was the Koyorad from ECP
pretty sure ill straight pass my upcoming MOT. If I even get one advisory I will eat Daytona's hat
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On 19/05/2017 at 10:59, daytona said:
Your car is beginning to remind me of Triggers brush from Fools & Horses Gavin!
Well, stage 1 is nearly complete!
She may not be the prettiest, most powerful, sexiest Celica, but she sure is
1) Completely Rust free
2) Completely New / Rebuilt Suspension and Steering - every component
3) Completely new brakes
4) Fully aligned
5) Totally safe and amazing
Stage 2 - all the bodywork dings and scratches comes after
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New Handbrake shoes and spring/pin fitting kit
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You know the sort of thing - little bolt snaps somewhere, nothing important, so you use superglue or zip ties, or you break something else when doing a repair, or you hole your bumper and just use filler.... and think....feck it....
I will start:
My drivers side rear ABS sensor cable bracket, just below the strut, is now held on with a combination of epoxy, superglue and a bolt I managed to get in the remains of the captive nut by one thread. Luckily this thing isn't really important nor under any load whatsoever, it literally just hold the ABS cable up
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maybe the old ones weren't torqued sufficiently by whoever replaced them, letting them rattle around or not quite make good contact
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6 hours ago, slybunda said:
whats epoxy mastic do? is it a primer or something more durable?
its like a tough glue/paint combo
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Replaced both rear trailing arms, hub carriers, suspension bolts, ARB + brackets just to fix one snapped and one seized toe bolt. fun fun fun!
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18 hours ago, slybunda said:
i dont see the GF or FF rating on pad compound in those pad pics?
They don't have to mark the actual rating in the UK, just the pad compound and e90 cert number. Usually takes quite a bit of googling to find the ratings if they aren't printed on the pads themselves
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I just stick with standard motorfactor bulbs now (usually Lucas bulbs, which are fine)
Every time ive ever fitted, to any car, fancy bulbs, they always end up "normal" brightness after a couple months and die prematurely
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I think only the Toyota machine, maybe the snap-on and other really expensive readers can read the other control units. Anything else is just the main engine ECU.
I have one of the ELM237 blue Bluetooth ODBII readers plugged in and use it with Torque app on my phone. Its brilliant. And cheap.
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See, I was under the impression that the ECU is always trying to have as much timing advance as possible for efficiency, power and emissions. Having higher octane fuel reduces detonation which can aid this process. Granted, the factory ECU will have an upper limit, but perhaps it does help a bit
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52 minutes ago, daytona said:
in a nutshell .......yes.
outside a nutshell.............
Since lowering a car changes the spring rate and height of the car, lowering springs are categorised according to the spring rate, which is the amount of force or load it takes to compress a spring a certain distance. The higher the spring rate, the stiffer the spring is.
The two main types of lowering springs are the progressive rate springs and the linear rate springs. With progressive rate springs, the top and bottom coils have a bigger gap than the coils in the middle of the spring. The spring rate varies depending on the distance travelled, with the spring getting stiffer the more it is used, thus creating a comfortable ride. Progressive rate springs cost a lot more than linear rate springs; they are ideal for drivers who want buckets of aesthetic appeal and a smoother ride. Linear, standard, or specific rate springs have coils that are evenly spaced apart. There is no change to the spring rate no matter the distance one travels, thus the ride can get bumpy. Linear rate springs are less expensive than the progressive rate ones, and are for cars whose drivers prefer a better-quality lowering of the car and performance over looks.
Those Eibachs looks evenly spaced to me..... ?
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quite an obvious difference on the finish of the metal backing, and the shim between them. I think you will be happy with the Premier's
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1 hour ago, dublet said:
Hammerite's Kurust is along similar lines.
Nope
The toolstation stuff is like someone mixed paint with kurust. Its literally a matt black rust converting paint all-in-one and its pretty good too.
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I rather like the "Rust Converter" you can get from Toolstation, made by flag. Big tin for a fiver. Its almost like paint and dries to a matt black finish that seems pretty tough. Used quite a bit on mine in fiddly places and seems to last. The rear brake pipe loops are still matt black and non spotty after 6 months and they basically get shot blasted by crap coming off the wheels.
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56 minutes ago, ams said:
I have loads of them - starting at £15 for one that has paint flaking , going up for better ones
How much are super-good ones, if you have any?
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17 minutes ago, Kev 16v said:
I'd always have new rubber fitted up my rear.
L O L
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I had ZZ3 and the later ZZ5 on my MR2. Hated them mostly. The grip was very good, yes, but tramlined and bump steered like a biatch, for some reason although alignment was perfect had cocked steering wheel with them, always pulled to the right, and noisy.
The moment I switched to Kumho KU39 all those problems were gone and the grip is just as good, if not better.
I would never use an Avon ZZ again
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225 is the width, 35 is the profile. 35 is very, very low profile and will be hard and pretty harsh feeling as there is very little sidewall flex
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that's an awfully wide, and super low profile for a 6.5j
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1 hour ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
The Ferodo email reply [above] does state they are 'aftermarket' which is a bit ambiguous [ i mean they could be made in China for all we know ] and the reply also stated a lower price. I should have bought the FDB type - especially as they cost a bit less too - which is odd in itself.
Toying with the idea of sending them back for he real deal...
Avensis FDB Premiers for £28.44 is a bargain [over 50 quid on eBay]
The do have a 90r mark so are road legal, but they could be at the -15% of OEM performance of that legal range. They wont be fake crap, but may not be super great either.
90r allows for -15 to +15% of OEM performance coefficient of friction at certain temperature ranges, which is in reality a difference of 30% between the worst and best available, any other claims on 90r marked pads is marketing.
I'm by no means a brake snob, but I always try and find 90r pads at the upper range, which equates to FF or GF rated friction material on most toyotas, compared to FE at the lower end (the higher the letters, the higher the cold / hot friction).
For example, TMD friction pads are GF at the front and EE at the back (Mintex and Pagid) and although the front is decent, the rear pads are kinda crap for the friction ratings and makes it quite unbalanced *in theory*
Currently I run a set of Ferodo FDB up front (FF) and Solid Ace rears (rebranded Juratek compound) which are also FF. I don't have braided lines, but all my calipers are new including all sliders and it was bled thoroughly. On my stock facelift 275mm setup, and the brake performance is SCARY GOOD
In the UK and EU, the actual friction rating isn't required to be printed on the pads (although it is in the US) but you can usually determine what it is by trying to find the 90r certificate online. Some more info here
and here
what have you done to your celica today...
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
well mine lifted right out.... ?