G.Lewarne
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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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Made an interesting discovery about rear strut components
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2 hours ago, slybunda said:
these were pagid discs and pads i got from eurocarparts. cost around 40 quid per disc.
if its gonna happen again then dunno if i should just get cheaper discs? i can get mintex or delphi discs for 50quid for the pair!!
Really? how old are they? Ive used plenty of pagid coated discs over the years and never seen them go that crusty
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personally, I would replace. Ive never seen it happen when ive used pre-coated or painted myself discs (VHT paint)
Try some pagid discs from ECP they come pre coated and rust much much much less
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This sort of nonsense is very common on the inside of discs on all sorts of cars.
Did you fit all new discs and pads?
I'm not 100% on what causes it, ive seen it happen on cars with perfectly good sliders and calipers myself. My own personal theory is that unlike the front face which is one continuous piece of metal to the hub part, the rear side is basically floating on the cooling fins. Once rust starts naturally forming on those fins, it more easily "creeps" around to the friction side. Once a big enough chunk of rust forms to "wear" a bit of that pad off, the pad no longer closely sweeps that part, allowing a little more rust to form, wearing the pad again, allowing more rust to form......
Another contributing factor, I think, is that there is a lot more potential angulation of pressure on the inside pad of floating calipers. The outside pad really had no option other than being pressed totally flat against the disc and there is a lot more surface area of the caliper pressing against it, the inside however had a relatively small amount of surface area because only the piston is pushing - get a small chunk of crud on the back of the pad and the piston can potentially start going at effectively a bit of an angle
just a theory
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Fixed some more interior rattles - removed headlining and tightened every bolt, ziptied and padded every wire and tube etc. Also tightened the rear sunroof bar that goes across the two rails - was very loose and rattly
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33 minutes ago, CrunchyAdams82 said:
You got a picture or link of what you bought?
It was a single listing unfortunately. They didn't have any others available. Its basically a Toyota Japanese manufacture key of the right time period.
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if you already have the new radiator, replace it anyway. Eventually, they all go on a Gen 7
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Fixed and cleaned up minor gearbox oil leak at the drain plug. Obviously also did gearbox oil at same time. Used a new sealing washer, and filled with Comma 75w90 GL4 oil
What came out was golden syrup colour so not actually too bad really. But since I didn't know the history of the car figured may as well do the oil at these miles
Job took about 15 mins, no jacking required
EDIT: Wow! so much better! smoother gear changes, box is quieter, and the odd noise I thought I was occasionally getting from my release bearing is gone
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1 minute ago, VVTI said:
That's good, but you have to follow all the instruction on the list to program the alarm fob. I used a hacksaw to cut the blade, I was expecting it to be difficult to cut off but was very easy. See if you can print that list off, go through it a few times before actually doing it and make sure no one is watching you thinking whats that weirdo doing open and closing the doors haha. hope it all goes well
The people on the street I live in already think I'm a weirdo because I'm working on my celica all the time....so wont make any difference. Literally, had a neighbour come up to me the other day and I quote "Gavin, wouldn't it be easier for you to get all this work done at a garage?"
I was like.........um no, and more expensive....and probably not done as well.....
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Righto, just bought a key with fob module complete off eBay for £17.95 inc post (not too bad). My original choise was apparently wrong and AMS pointed me towards one that should work.
So when I receive it, ill remove the blade part, stick in a new battery and reprogram the buttons. But my question still remains - do you have to do the whole procedure or just the last part for fob only ?
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If you are only programming a fob (not a key blade) do you have to do all the instructions anyway or just the last section? That is the only thing I'm a bit vague on
Ill explain my situation a bit better.
I have two keys for my car - one "full function" with buttons that I use every day. I also have the "valet" key - which, as long as the car is open allows me to drive the car just fine.
I simply want a "remote" fob that I can attach to the keyring with the valet key so it can be used as a complete spare - to lock, unlock and drive the car as necessary. I was planning on just buying any old second hand fob key and removing the blade...
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thanks, that one is a little pricey.
Have submitted an offer, also sent AMS a message. lets see who wins!
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does anyone have an ebay link for a replacement fob (not key, just fob), I want a spare one
Alternatively, anyone got an old Celica key I can take the fob module out off (to reprogram for my car) - I can easily get a case for it
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23 minutes ago, ams said:
So what we found a few years ago was when using the non genuine stuff, we would find rads, water pumps and heater matrixes would find leaks afterwards, so I always recommend using the genuine stuff. Has been discussed by other members on here a few times having the same issue over the years as well. Even the dealer has tried to fob me off with 20litres of generic stuff for the same price as 5 litres of genuine red. Lots of people have said that they are the same - Im just going off personal experience 17 years, 274,000 miles and still on the original rad and matrix.
but do you think that's an issue when people are replacing those parts (mostly rad/pump) with new ones at the same time ?
I'm all for Genuine stuff, and see your point about it hiding minor leaks, but id rather have a minor leak identified and then fixed than, say, in my case everything is hunky dory until one day the radiator falls apart while driving dumping my coolant everywhere
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when you are done fushing out the blue with a hosepipe, you could always pour a few litres of de-ionised water straight into the heater matrix pipes (just above the throttle body) to give them a run through of more pure water (rather than tap) for a little more peace of mind before you fill coolant, and maybe make your coolant mix just a *tiny* bit stronger than 50/50
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the small amount of ordinary water left in the system wont be an issue - talking less than half a litre at most probably in the heater matrix. Not enough to cause any significant scale, and not enough to significantly dilute any 50/50 mix you put in
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9 minutes ago, Jev said:
I am in the process of replacing power steering cooler tubing with a small dedicated radiator. Whilst I have bits out the way and a better radiator in the garage I thought it would be a good time to switch rads too. But I know I will need a little extra fluid to clean out the current BLUE coolant the car currently has. Hence looking for a little cheaper coolant whilst I try and flush old stuff out.
You don't want to use any kind of modern OAT (usually the pink / red stuff) with any BLUE stuff in the system whatsoever - they combine to form what can be best described as thick brown goo. Goo in your cooling system, isn't good
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same, Halfords stuff here. Just as good, used by many.
Spend the few extra quid for the concentrate stuff and you can make twice as much as what you get premixed. Keep the rest for future cooling system work
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just to go back to your original question Crunchy
I would always, ALWAYS go full synth on a gearbox especially anything remotely modern / performance. Not just for the added protection, but the longevity of the stuff - it might be in there for upwards of 100k + miles between clutch jobs after all so isn't really costing you much more for the peace of mind
but that's just me.....as others have said, everyone has their own opinion!
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There was another thread on here recently about Toyota services.
Their most expensive option at something like £329 was essentially an oil change, air filter and maybe plugs if you were lucky. They did a fluid top-up and a hinge lube (big deal) inclusive. The rest of the "service" was pretty much all the checks you would get during a MOT at £20+. It was a LOT of money for what you got.
My local MOT place I use will do the same items on their service, AND a MOT for £75 and put a stamp in your book ~ and they are a jap performance specialist so really know their stuff.
Just sayin'
EDIT for mods: thread seems goofed somehow and has all the posts-out-of-order and keeps going to the top of my list on the forum
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Ive used Budweg calipers from brakeparts.co.uk and brakes international on numerous cars, and have two of theirs on the rear of my Gen7. Would heartily recommend them without hesitation. Pretty good value too.
And just a random throught - and I have seen this - is that tyre fitted the correct way around? ive seen quite a few over the years coming out of tyre places with the inside on the outside
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21 minutes ago, slybunda said:
Was full geometry check on hunter machine. I needed adjustments last year but this year it didnt need anything.
Also MOT passed 2 weeks ago no issues.
Surprised tester didnt say anything about the wear. Guess since they are still both above legal limit they wont mention it.
Going around roundabouts shouldnt make a difference unless its like nascar?
I used the depth gauge and its a 2.3mm increase in wear on the front passenger tyre. And its even across the tyre. Very odd. However these are the first tyres iv put on the car since i bought it 4 years ago.
suppose that tyre could be from a different batch with a slightly different compound than the others which was more susceptible to wear. otherwise, not really sure.
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unfortunately its a pretty open question with lots of answers.
When you say you had an alignment, was it a full geometry or just tracking? Tracking on it own wont really show up any other geometry problems that can cause excessive tyre wear.
As could a number of mechanical faults on that side. Any indication of balljoint, track rod or wishbone bush wear on that corner? Looking for anything that would allow that wheel to snake a bit while driving
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19 hours ago, slybunda said:
hey all i got some of this stuff on order:
do i just slap it on to the car directly or should i use a primer first? or paint first?
With that stuff, prep is key
You need to remove all possible traces of crap, flakey stuff, rust etc. Then treat with a rust treatment, then something like the red oxide primer, than the underseal if you really want to. Make sure you do it on a very dry day after the car has been warm and dry for at least a couple days.
I prefer not to use underseal products, I never found they work very well, and just "slapped on" can lead to nasty hidden rot that you, or the MOT man, might not see.
I prefer the treat, primer and paint methodology myself rather than underseal
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what have you done to your celica today...
in General Celica Discussion
Posted · Edited by G.Lewarne
scrubbed, primed, painted and injected cavity wax into my front subframe while its still solid and showing no signs of rust whatsoever....
Also did the same to the front crossmember / radiator support bar before the surface rust took hold into something worse