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G.Lewarne

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Posts posted by G.Lewarne

  1. 34 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

    Brown stuff...    had me worrried there for a minute! Incidently, when I painted my sills recently, I also set up a little corrosion experiment - it's a strip of what was really rusty steel, cleaned up with a wire brush, and then I painted some patches on it, some straight on the metal, some on top of Flag's anti-rust (which you recommended), some on top of Jenolite. The paint is zinc phosphate primer. This is not exactly scientific, and I don't know how long it will take to show any effects, but I'll post any results when they show. As well as my 15 year old Celica, I've also got a 19 year old Rover 600 to keep fettled :doh:

     

    neat experiment.

     

    So far I'm liking the FLAG stuff - with a couple coats seems to hold up well.  In 6 months my front brake disc hubs still aren't rusty

  2. 23 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

    Exellent! As above, a looked after 7 seems to be pretty bullet proof in terms of MoT's. I guess the main issue as they age will be keeping rust at bay?

     

     

    MOT dude couldn't find any of the brown stuff left on mine that I hadn't already caught and corrected.  Just means that now I'm all set, ive got to keep an eye out and plan a good check over every 6 months or so to try and catch the tinworm larvae early enough

  3. I'm glad I did another pre-check this morning :o

     

    Between me checking all the bulbs a couple days ago and this morning, a side indicator bulb had gone, so have time to pop to the factors to get a pair and replace both of them.

     

    Gonna give it a good warm up before I take it to the station (technically 3 mins drive from my house).  Ive washed the bodywork and chassis to show off all my lovely new suspension, brakes, subframes and steering parts and given the interior a thorough clean.

     

    Also picked up a full set of new bosch wipers as one of mine was starting to judder with all the recent sunsine cooking / rain spells

     

    fingers crossed no issues.

  4. Quote

    Bit I also share the same feeling that I really hate anyone else touching the my cars. So, it's not so much that I feel nervous, but more like the bad feeling that somebody is intruding where they are definately not welcome.

     

    its a horrible feeling isn't it.

     

    A couple years ago I was getting my MR2 tested and the guy drove it onto the brake rollers at a bit of an angle, with the inside of the passenger rear tyre rubbing against the concrete divider between the rollers.  If I hadn't spotted it and asked him to straighten it up he would have shredded my tyre and possibly the wheel along with it.

     

    I didn't get angry, everyone makes mistakes, but its crap like that that makes me nervous - when you do something day in day out you tend to not really give a crap after a while and you never know whats going to happen.

     

    My MOT tomorrow is the first with my Celica, and its a new testing station (for me) as well - although they do have a very good reputation.

  5. So I've got my proper MOT test tomorrow.  I'm 99.9% sure everything is going to be fine considering all the work I've done - but still, I'm feeling really anxious about it for some reason.  I suppose mostly because the only things I cant check myself are the emissions and brake roller tests - although I'm confident those will be fine too but you never know.

     

    What is it about MOT time that makes people anxious?  especially those of us here who really know their cars and whats been done - it kinda doesn't make sense lol

  6. On ‎16‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 11:16, daytona said:

    Interesting. Mine has always had an almost imperceptible hesitation on pulling away. New plugs improved it a bit. Never so noticeable as to be worth hours of labour costs to try and find the issue. if it even is an issue.

    May give a new sensor a try depending on price.

     

    That's the same thing I was trying to sort out and I'm very happy.  After fitting and Grinning, I have also totally removed my throttle body and the IACV, cleaned them, new gaskets, and reset the throttle stop screw and TPS sensor as per the service manual.

     

    Even more grinning now applies :D

     

    edit: I posted the group buy last night so take a look

     

    edit 2:  Mr T lied, they didn't have the gaskets, so had to order and wait...dammit

    • Like 1
  7. 18 minutes ago, daytona said:

    Was your old one shot or are you saying this is better than stock & if so how please?

    Old one was shot.  Threw a code every few weeks despite cleaning.  Had an eBay cheapie I used for a while which sorted it but thats in a mates mr2 after his original one left him at the side of the road .

     

    Compared to the genuine second hand one I got a while ago (worked fine no codes just old) this new Denso one is like driving a factory fresh car.  I was totally suprised at just how much of a difference it made.

     

    Denso make the OEM sensor for Toyota so ita basically the factory part without the bend-over and lube up prices from mr T

  8. Fitted my new dashcam, routed the cable along the inside of the headliner, down behind the A-Pillar trim, in behind the dash, up to the cigarette socket area, spliced in my 12v>5v adapter box I made (using the guts of an old cigarette usb adapter) to the current cigarette socket feed. Really pleased how that turned out, you cant see a trace of the power cable anywhere. Job done!

     

    Fits in behind the rear view mirror nice, MOT man should be happy with placement up there as you cant see it at all in the drivers seat

  9. 22 minutes ago, p-mo said:

    I guess maybe having the LED in series could have pulled too much power through the signal line.  Ill remove LED try a different relay and get back to you.

     

    quite the opposite.

     

    When you had the 501 led in series it was only allowing a handful of miliamps to flow through that circuit (and hence the coil) because of its built in current limiting resistor.  That would have stopped the coil being energized properly and the contacts pulling in.  Always put indicator LEDs in parallel with a load, not in series for this reason

  10. This is what I would do .  The indicator LED is in parallel with the new load so to actually give an indication if the load is receiving power or not.  Put it anywhere else, such as in parallel with the relay coil and all you are getting is an indication that the relay is getting power - the load fuses might be blown but the LED would still light up, which is useless.  Also, you may not need the back EMF diode, a lot of automotive grade relays already have them built in

    circuit.png

     

     

  11. also, to be honest its risky having a long cable run from battery positive, through a relay contact and then into a fuse - the fuse should be as close to the battery end of your new supply line as possible otherwise, say if your wire chafes through the insulation, you potentially have a big-ass amp supply cable unfused shorting to ground witch is definitely a fire risk

    • Like 1
  12. continuity test the relay contacts, see if they do open and close when the coil is energised.

     

    Most relays are multi-pole and some even have commoned contactors - double check you are correctly wired across them to open close the circuit when the coil is energised

     

    I am curious why you have the LED in series with the coil though, you will get a little voltage drop because of that and it may not make the contactors move fully into position.

     

    If you want and indicator LED, instead put it across 30 and ground with its own current limiting resistor

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