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G.Lewarne

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Posts posted by G.Lewarne

  1. 8 hours ago, Shinogi said:

    That's nice to know. I watched a video on youtube comparing an older Bosch battery against an original Toyota. he said the Toyota one was 15 years old and still held a good charge. I'll definitely look at the Yuasa next time I need one, thank you.

     

     

    I like Peter FInn's videos, but this was one of the ones he simply got wrong.  He was equating charge / health to open circuit voltage which is completely misleading and frankly, wrong.

     

    Anyway... I got a Yuasa YBX3000 series type 053 for my facelift at my local factors for 39 quid.....

     

    That Bosch battery you bought is precisely the same as a Varta bluetop with a different sticker on it and different colour plastic.  Ok batteries, nothing particularly special, but not cheap tat either

  2. I like them :P

     

    much much better than standard bulbs, good light distance, really sharp beam pattern on dipped lights.  I actually feel sorry for people coming the other way, even though the alignment is legal and MOT checked (tester tweaked them to perfection for me)

     

    I have them in my high beam too and its like I have my own little sun in the front of the car

     

    I'm only a few months in after fitting them, but I drive home from work past 11pm almost every day so use them a lot, just as bright as when I put them in.

     

    Previously had nightbreakers ultimate, or whatever they are called.  Good at first, little fuzzy on the beam though.  They faded pretty quick with my daily night driving.  On the whole, was disappointed with them.  One blew after only 4 months

  3. just get the Toyota one.  Its been on the car and withstood at least 12 years of abuse, wheel on and off likely many, many times and repeated tightening to who-knows what torques

     

    Would you really trust an ebay one of indeterminate origins to do the same?  don't forget, these hold your wheels on lol

     

    • Like 1
  4. 6 minutes ago, Cal670 said:

    Nearly £40 a side for a strut boot, could get them for about £22 at the time from TCB parts. 

     

    Apparently a genuine TRD spoiler (unpainted) was somewhere around £1200 only a couple of years ago..

     

    On the plus I got a free sump plug washer from them last December ;) 

    I never get a free sump washer from them any more.  Since they changed the people working at their parts desk its all gone downhill.  They are very by-the-book now and all three of them seem to have zero knowledge about what they are selling.

     

    The one girl they have there is nice eye candy though :P

     

  5. 1 hour ago, Gazbuscus said:

    On the Celica, if you discount the fact a raked a socket driver down my rear quarter scratching the paint when fitting a new boot strut, the worst I've done is hack my wheel arch liner to death whilst trying to fit an Injen CAI to my last T-Sport. I wasn't anticipating the tight angles I'd encounter and in typical Gaz fashion went at all very ill-prepared. That poor arch liner got raped with a rusty saw knife looking thing and a pair of reasonably blunt snips. It was pure carnage and definitely my stand out "f**k it, that'll do" moment.

    after lowering my 7 I got tired of my knackered old undertrays rubbing on everything.  Problem with them was that all the pop clip holes were torn or elongated, and the plastic had gone saggy especially around the oil change panel.

     

    I cut them up with a knife so I still have the wheel arch sections, and about 2 inches of panel on the drivers side (to protect all the pulleys), and fitted a flywheel cover from AMS because mine was just....gone

     

    30 mins with a knife later - factory looking wheel arches, but nothing underneath :)

     

    Tell you what though - not having the undertrays makes any engine, oil change, gearbox oil change etc an absolute doddle.

     

     

  6. 4 hours ago, slybunda said:

    I managed to get a fair bit off it removed using a brush. But thats the only way it will shift. I tried brake cleaner soak and even soaked it in gunk degreaser and even hot water which made no difference. 

    But any parts you can touch with a tissue or brush or your finger will clean out and become clear.

    Iv recently bought a pressure washer so will give that a try too.

    I cant be bothered with it now to be honest - was one of those "would be nice" things for asthetics only.  Let us know if you have any future success

  7. 10 minutes ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

     

     

    Hold on Tiger!

     

    now i realise how it could take you only half an hour!  :lol:

     

    i didn't read your post right about it being the inlet manifold   :doh:

     

    Sorry i didn't make it clear but my reply refers to the exhaust manifold  

     

    I think cleaning/polishing out the internal exhaust manifold would make a nice difference - but maybe subject matter for another time/day perhaps!

     

    See the youtube vid - quite interesting imo

     

    Anyway, where did i put my reading glasses...?

     

    Debs

    LOL

     

    should have gone to specsavers :P

     

  8. 8 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

     

    Sounds like a good result

    Do you think doing an internal manifold polish [using a Flex-Hone perhaps] would achieve any improvements?

     

     

    not really, almost the entire length of the intake is in the plastic manifold, there is only an inch or so where it bolts to the head before it hits the valves - you can actually see and inspect them very clearly with the manifold off - no curves or anything in there.  The other thing is that unless you change out the PCV system with a catch can and filter - even the most highly polished mirror-shine honing wouldn't last before it gets covered with oily grime ruining the effect anyway

     

    I can now confirm a decent MPG improvement - I think its three fold - all my A/F sensors being new, thoroughly cleaned throttle body and IACV with new gaskets, and evidently fixed a minor vacuum leak right at the manifold with the new intake gasket.  I am actually surprised at the difference its all made :)

     

    • Like 1
  9. Replaced my intake manifold gasket.  When I was doing my throttle body work the other week I noticed some oily grime around the intake runners for number 1 and 4 cylinders. Got a new OEM gasket from Mr T.  On removal my old gasket was brittle hard, flattened, and there was oily traces all over the manifold mating area.

     

    Good clean up and refit, overall only took 30 mins.

     

    Result:  engine quieter, smoother and improved throttle response.  Tentative MPG improvement as well, but will need to drive more to confirm.

    • Like 1
  10. 20 hours ago, LewisVR said:

    Im using green stuff pads at the mo, but i had this link saved for when i wanted to get yellow stuff pads http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/toyota/avensis-00-03/avensis-2-0d-4d-cdt220-08-00-07-01/front-brake-pads/dp4995r.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzNfDBRD2xKrO4pSnnOkBEiQAbzzeQe0mzSc_CvmmkIE4S2UWKxEcCImdlNgQZ8sNiNCejw8aAp9M8P8HAQ

     

    Although not checked if 100% right yet.

    not the right pads for a T-Sport, 190 or facelift 140

  11. that's not too bad at all, couple quid less than my local factors for a set if you don't mind waiting a couple days for delivery :)

     

    I have switched to the Denso K16TT (twin tip) - still a copper plug, still pretty cheap, right heat grade, but has smaller twin tips on both centre and ground electrodes.

     

    My car seems to like them quite a lot

  12. 9 minutes ago, Peter_7 said:

    Think I used petrol or some solvent I got from work then flushed it out with carb cleaner but it still looks crap so don't get too upset about it because its stained for life.

    but but but......

     

    it bothers me :angry:

     

    EDIT:

    BAWAHAHAAAAAAAAaaahahahahahaaaaaaa hahahahaaa

    So I just rang Toyota to see how much a new reservoir is, purely out of interest.  Its more expensive than my new rear subframe I got off them at £200 + vat

     

    hahahaha

  13. Flushed and replaced my power steering fluid today with fresh Dex3 ATF.

     

    Tried cleaning the nasty blue gungy buildup from inside the reservoir - even took it right off and soaked it in a strong bicarb solution for a couple hours (thoroughly rinsed and dried after of course) - but it came out no better.

     

    Has anyone every successfully cleaned theirs, and if so, what did you use?

     

    Lastly, why do all Toyota PS reservoirs go that nasty blue green colour anyway?

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