G.Lewarne
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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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finished my brake overhaul and rebuild. Got all the new stuff on the front yesterday, got the rears done today. amazingly didn't have any issues with the brake unions at the back, was concerned about that as those pipes are right in the firing line from tyre spray.
Fully flushed through and bled with new DOT 5.1
brakes feel and stop fantastic now, better than ever even though only 10 miles on all the new discs and pads
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i particularly like the bit where they compare any kind of mods to chavs with ripspeed vouchers.
classy
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got my front braided hoses, new (recon) callipers, discs and pads all done and bled through. Amazingly enough had no issues with the brake hose unions.
What a bloody difference with just the fronts!
Tackling the rears tomorrow
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3 hours ago, daytona said:
You were doing all that but didn't upgrade to Avensis at the same time? Curious why not G?
Not exactly in post, more in van, but man with van popping a fresh pair of Eagle F1s on the front right now.
Lovely jubbly.
maybe, maybe not!
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not arrived, but ordered:
2x front new (recon) calipers
discs'n'pads all round (ferodo pads, standard discs)
Front pad carrier clips
1 set braided Hel brake lines
2 litres Dot 5.1
already replaced my rear calipers with brand new ones last year so that completes the full brake rebuild set
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phase one of chasing bad, stumbly rough cold starts without any codes to help out....
1. Replaced all 4 ignition coils with eBay cheapos (£56 for the full set). I must say the construction of these eBay coils is very good, exactly matching the OEM ones. 2 of the old coils were cracked severely all down their length toward the rubber boot with some possible burn marks on the outsides. I don't care if they don't last too long at £56 for a full set compared to £140 for a coil from Toyota or £90 from denso / blueprint EACH. Decided not to go second hand as I wanted to replace the whole set.
2. Changed plugs for those new-fangled Denso "Twin Tip" variety, but I used the regular copper plugs instead of anything exotic. Used K16TT part number, pre-gapped to 1.1mm as per spec.
3. Thoroughly cleaned spark plug holes to remove any moisture, oil traces and gunge
4. Re-seated MAF o-ring, just to be sure
5. Re-set chain tensioner
6. Pulled Crank sensor and cleaned the magnetic sensor tip, was pretty gungy.
7. Reset ECU
Result: Engine much quieter. Idle smoother. Pickup considerably improved. 1st start from dead cold seems super quick and smooth again. VROOOOOOM noise much more pronounced.
I'm not sure why, but the engine really is much quieter with the new coils - I suspect the old ones were seriously impaired from the cracks and causing some pretty big ignition lag timing corrections in the ECU leading to some more pronounced engine noise.
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6 hours ago, ams said:
Triple QX from
Are you looking at what is left in the bottle - Triple QX from euro is labelled as 5 litres but is ony about 4.7 litres normally in there - started bothering me when i noticed so little was left on cars where I knew the capacity as I kept noticing it
yup looking at the bottle, but its not just ECP oil I fill to the 4.5l mark. The millers 5w40 I put in that I get from my local factors also goes to the 4.5l mark on a oil change.
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1 hour ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Gav, have you swopped your OEM sump for a larger size type?
well I haven't, maybe at some point in the cars past. not sure how I would tell either?
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20 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Yesterday the oil change went ahead on my 140 engine.
The old oil came out looking only slightly darker than the new oil that when in.
We used a new 'Ace' oil filter [Made in Japan] which had a look of excellent engineered quality about it considering they only cost £2.44 each.
All went to plan but my mechanic mate kindly used some of his bargain priced 5w30 c2 supply [ 4 x 1L bottles for 14 quid total ]
He said the C2 or C3 is oaky to use but what i bought was too expensive so take the 3 x 2L bottles back for a £36 refund
Also; the 1ZZ-FE engine only needs around 3.7 litres give or take 0.2 which includes filter change so more than 4 litres is unnecessary anyway.
Debs
Solid Ace stuff is owned by the same people who own the blueprint brands and is effectively the same stuff. I actually cut open a used blueprint and a used solid ace oil filter and they were identical inside - good media, backflow valve material and a good spring loaded bypass valve.
What I find interesting is that whenever I do an oil chance on my facelift 140 I always have to put in about 4.5 litres to get it to the max mark which is also whats specified in the book. I do however drain it cold and let it drain for an our at least so I assume that all the dregs, apart from whats trapped in the galleries, has drained to the sump at this point
20 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:Yesterday the oil change went ahead on my 140 engine.
The old oil came out looking only slightly darker than the new oil that when in.
We used a new 'Ace' oil filter [Made in Japan] which had a look of excellent engineered quality about it considering they only cost £2.44 each.
All went to plan but my mechanic mate kindly used some of his bargain priced 5w30 c2 supply [ 4 x 1L bottles for 14 quid total ]
He said the C2 or C3 is oaky to use but what i bought was too expensive so take the 3 x 2L bottles back for a £36 refund
Also; the 1ZZ-FE engine only needs around 3.7 litres give or take 0.2 which includes filter change so more than 4 litres is unnecessary anyway.
Debs
Solid Ace stuff is owned by the same people who own the blueprint brands and is effectively the same stuff. I actually cut open a used blueprint and a used solid ace oil filter and they were identical inside - good media, backflow valve material and a good spring loaded bypass valve.
What I find interesting is that whenever I do an oil chance on my facelift 140 I always have to put in about 4.5 litres to get it to the max mark which is also whats specified in the book. I do however drain it cold and let it drain for an our at least so I assume that all the dregs, apart from whats trapped in the galleries, has drained to the sump at this point
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the modern oil grades are all backwards compatible, so C3 is certified on the same stuff C2 is, plus a bit more. You can use it safely. Although tbh magnatec is a very average oil, not cheapo crap by any means but nothing super special either. Will be fine
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random fact -
Most of us, as well as garages who do work, wont put on Toyota genuine parts. This is absolutely fine of course, but having measured with a digital caliper side by side a new Toyota and a new blueprint (about as good as it gets for pattern stuff) rear discs the pattern ones are ever-so-slightly thicker, with less of a machined groove on the back side.
This results in the disc gently scraping against the handbrake shoes backplate, especially when going around corners when the entire assembly twists a little with the weight shifting.
Usual fixes include the careful application of a hammer to the back plate, or trying another brand of disc.
You can diagnose this easily by taking off the rear discs. Look at the lip of the inner backing plate - if there is a shiny bare metal spot somewhere on its circumference you have this problem. hit that bit with a hammer to bend it back a bit.
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On 02/11/2017 at 18:13, darchy81 said:
why are so many ppl putting 5/40 in? i have always put 5/30 in my 140
it is in the allowable range, and is a touch thicker for high mile engines than 5w30. It doesn't really matter - personally I just get good deals on 5w40. Used the same stuff on my 3sge and 3sgte as well as another Toyota with the 4afe
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I use whatever the factors have in 5l of 5w40 synthetic for 15 quid. I don't care about the brand as long as it has the right specs, and I always use either a Toyota or Blueprint oil filter.
Used the same for years on my MR2 that was driven hard. never any oil related issues whatsoever.
In fact in my gen7 whatever I put in is still honey coloured when it comes out 3k later....and no sludge anywhere.
Its really more important that its changed regularly, rather than what exactly goes into it as long as it meets the specs and in the correct grade range for the engine.
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Bean can and bailing wire and good as new!
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id be fussy as hell if I ever sold Tiberius (my celica) - I would probably only sell it on here and let active members drive it if they had 3rd party cover on another car.
Ive sold plenty of sheds and shopping trolleys and as long as they have cover I don't care, but I always sit in the car with them and make sure I have my phone on me in case they go all stabby stabby on me
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last bottle of Toyota oil I bought from the dealer was C3 rated.... engine hasn't exploded yet , on 3rd change with it now
Low SAPS just means a slightly lower ash, phosphorous and sulphur content in the additive package. I would doubt it will make any difference.
C3 is also rated API SM and ACEA A3/B3, and to quote from the ACEA specification guide http://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php
ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.
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nice little bar isn't it!
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yes its fine
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1 minute ago, Cal670 said:
Assuming from the description that was self-inflicted?
guys I'm just having the shittiest day imaginable. Here is the long winded story...
So my dog has had a bad leg for a couple months now, cruciate ligament. She was doing so well, slowly getting better, then on sunday she scooted too fast before I could stop her and twisted it bad. Made another vets appointment which was this afternoon. As I'm bending down to scoop her into the car to go see the doggie doctor, she jumps past me, leaps onto the front seat, but misses and slips her already bad leg along the kick panel. Ive been working so hard keeping her rested with gentle exercise I got frustrated and shouted at her
So we go see the vets, she needs XRays and stuff, booked in for Monday. As we are going back to the car, she scoots past my hands AGAIN and slips her leg on the kick panel. I was so frustrated and upset already I shouted at her again.
Ive got tears in my eyes because I'm such a meanie for shouting at my poor dog as I'm reversing out the (tiny) car park, and smash my door into a short barrier they have that was below glass level.
honestly, I got home and cried a lot
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Bit more of an unusual question for everyone.
I prefer to wash my cars myself, and my only suitable tap for connection is in my back garden, which I then have to route through the house to the front. All this is fine, but I'm fed up of hoses suddenly bursting in my kitchen and front room causing a right mess.
Ive narrowed my choices down to either a Hozelock or Karcher brand hose-on-a-reel. Which is the more sturdy and resistant to bursting, but can take the twists and turns and remain flexible?
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10 minutes ago, Gazbuscus said:
Sat in the empty parking space on my drive and cried like a lil' baby.
I'm giving you a virtual man-hug
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Sorted my handbrake...again...
Don't get the handbrake shoes from ICP the linings crumble into dust. Got pagids from ECP, got a discount, 24.99, 2 clicks hold it on the hill I live on now
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3 hours ago, bazz54 said:
@G.L. Looking at Denso starters for the G7 in the UK, there was just one 1kw model, but for the US, there were two, the larger one for cold weather areas.
weird, wonder why blueprint list two then lol
Accident damage.
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
you will almost certainly have structural damage at the back - you see the biggest ding in the bumper? the rear crash bar is literally just millimetres behind that part of the bumper (in a non damaged state) so it will be crumpled there, at least.
shows how strong the chassis is though!