G.Lewarne
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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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Bought a new hosepipe so gave the car the clean of its life
Bodywork shampooed twice, underside of bonnet, stiff brush shampoo, then degreaser into all the nooks and crannies and gentle rinse of engine bay, chassis, topside of front subframe and floorpan and cleaned the front struts by hand.
De gunked the wheel arch lips to squeaky clean too
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On 17/05/2018 at 13:02, Beeva said:
In the post today,... I got the most important addition to my 7 so far....
I got new parcel shelf clips that aren't snapped.....
I used blutac
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Will run fine on basic fuel
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popped off sill covers. Sighed. After only a year since I did it last a LOT of mud/clay/gunge had build up again and was making contact with the sills.
Cleaned everything up, treated, primes and repainted entire sills again. (put pics in thread in gen 7 area)
Muck sure does build up fast under there.
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hmmm, that's a third I hadn't considered. Even the two parts guys in my local dealership say it different to each other
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ive seen some old US tv adverts, and obviously I have heard it said by other people over the years, but what is actually right?
is it CELL - ICK - AH
or CE - LEEK - AHH
?
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cleaned and repainted:
- rear trailing arms
- rear ARB
- camber arms
- rear crash bar
- sill seams
- front subframe
- front wishbones
- front underbrace
- radiator support bar
- Front caliper brackets
- all brake disc shields
I used the same paint as I put on my new rear subframe as its held up perfectly and is even still shiny. Hopefully this will keep the crust at bay for another couple years.
Also replaced the front droplinks again! - one was knocking badly and was only a year old.
Its nice to have lovely shiny underbits again after the snow and salt wasn't kind this winter.
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how much fluid did you push through after changing the flexis and the calipers, and are you certain you got all the air out?
Are the rears imbalanced ? (would be looking at drivers rear because of the diagonal circuits)
Also, did you bleed the rears after doing the front end work? The front hard lines to the MC and ABS units are pretty short and it wouldn't take much fluid loss from disconnecting the fronts for air to be introduced into the system which could travel around the system
The hotter wheel may just be because that side is working harder than the other if there is air in the system, or it could be pads, slider or piston sticking as AMS has said.
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Just been speaking to my local Mr T about some things and the parts guy mentioned a current offer on service kits, price applicable to most models.
For models (or owners that are happy to fit) standard copper plugs £35 gets you 5/30 OIl, OIl Filter, Air Filter, Cabin Air Filter, Sump washer and Spark Plugs
If anyone is planning a service might be worth you enquiring with your local dealership for similar offers.
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i personally wouldn't go with the sock...can hide damage from quick look over. Its not really rusty springs you have to worry about (unless they are REALLY crusty of course) its the ends snapping which can happen to even brand new ones. one bad pothole and PING
As for extra paint, I did give all of my underbits a second coat of paint before fitting all my new stuff - after 10 months it hasn't really helped because it all gets blasted from wheel cast off anyway. Already got the old surface crust starting
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2 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Pink may carry a risk of falling foul of MOT tester advisories - 'suspension parts in shockingly bad taste colour choice'
I wouldn't want to risk any bureaucratic stray inking of my blotter.
However, GOLD on the other hand is rather classy, and would coordinate with my brake callipers
you will never, ever see the front spring plates though. Maybe the topmount visible part in the engine bay may be worth some awful colour though
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12 minutes ago, Black Knight said:
Gen 6 mate
doh!
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cillit bang is really good at cleaning up an engine bay though
Spray on, work with a brush, wait ten minutes, rinse off.
22 hours ago, Black Knight said:Yes but what happens when they are specialist Toyota only bolts that are no longer available
In this case its the four bolts that mount the rear sub frame to the car...very unique. Just have some rust on the exposed sections which I was hoping to clean up before reinstalling.
I had no issues getting rear subframe bolts from Mr T when I rebuilt my rear-end. And there are actually 6 bolts.
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I'm not an oil snob myslf, I prefer to go middle of the road.
I wont put "poundland SUPER MEGA ULTRA OIL!!!" type stuff in there, but ill happily fill with whatever my factors happen to have in stock that's in the right viscosity range.
Comma, Castrol, Gulf, Shell, Mobil, Halfords, TripleQX, yadda yadda are all much of a muchness if you change regularly. The more expensive oils may last longer, but I doubt any serious owner will run their oil for long enough for that to become any kind of concern
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22 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Thanks to AMS for supplying a few suspension bits, now have all the parts for front and rear
Spent a very noisy hour with angle grinder wire brush some surface rust away plus a good pre-paint clean-up,
and then a far more quiet hour applying two coats of primer paint.
Will apply a top coat sometime over the weekend....
Right now i'm enjoying a more relaxful hour with a glass of that Cantele
for a laugh, I would paint those bits some awful lurid colour (like neon pink) just because the only person who will ever see it is MOT / Mechanic guy
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replaced both front brake caliper hardline brake pipes to the engine bay with new OEM, bled with 5.1, scrubbed/treated and painted rear hardline U bends in the wheel arch.
Sorted for years
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8 hours ago, slybunda said:
No problems here using a fram ultra xg3600. I understand that the orange can ones are of poor build quality though.
according to the 'muricans where Fram is everywhere, their top-of-the-line parts are made by someone else. All of their basic cheap ones are incredibly bad quality
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You should really change the filter every single oil change as clean oil could be flowing through contaminated residue inside the filter. And for about 3 quid its a no brainer
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all our engines have the same filter fitment, you can put whatever size canister you want on them.
As for brands, Toyota and Blueprint are basically the same (ive seen a take-a-part video) , MANN or Bosch would be ok, but not really any cheaper.
Avoid Crossland (ECP cheapie) or anything made by Fram
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Keep, strip for parts, profit
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5 minutes ago, Kev 16v said:
215/45 is fine. Many members on here have 215/45 on a 7J rim
cheaper too I think, eh
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thanks mate. when it comes time to get tyres, is a 215/45 OK on a 7j or is that pushing the width a bit?
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Kev, what sort of impact am I having compared to stock wheels and tyres on my 140 running 7j with 215/40 profile ?
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buy it back and sell it for parts on here, probably get more back than it costs to repurchase it.
what have you done to your celica today...
in General Celica Discussion
Posted · Edited by G.Lewarne
gave him a full service. Fresh 5w40 full synth, oil filter, air filter, plugs, MAF clean, recalibrated my throttlebody (stop screw was slightly off optimal), ECU reset. Oh and replaced both my rear stop/tail bulbs as one exploded last night.
And this time I treated him to a brand new...……..sump bolt washer (free from my local T)
Also attempted to replace my main beam bulbs, but gave up. I will need to remove the headlights. I could do it in situ but I cant quite get the electrical connectors unclipped
EDIT: got my main beam bulbs changed! didn't need to remove the whole headlight units either. didn't realise they were twist'n'pull on the HB3 type. They come right out with the connector still attached for easy swapping