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G.Lewarne

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Posts posted by G.Lewarne

  1. I dont know why everyone says the non eibach lowering springs are crashy

     

    I just get a nice smooth bump up or down, not jarring unless I drive over a crater.  Doesn't feel much different to a mates stock 7 to be honest. He doesnt think so either.  And I run 40 profile 17s

  2. Here is another thing to consider.  And im talking about stock cars not modded monsters here.

     

    Say you buy a decent 2nd hand car and as a responsible enthusiast the first thing you do is give it a service and decide to splash out on fancy expensive plugs.  Great!

    But then 6 months later you are starting to have some engine issues and the first things people suggest you try are maf clean or replace and new plugs.  So you replace the plugs again.

     

    How many engine issues do we all face where we think "maybe its the plugs, ill replace them again"

     

    Maybe those super fancy plugs weren't such a good deal?

     

    I absolutely recommend iridiums for the 2zz, its in the book so that what they get.  But for anyone who wants to ensure tip-top performance and don't mind changing them more frequently, especially if problems are being chased, cheapo coppers aren't always such a bad idea.  And as stated, work perfectly fine for at least 20k

     

    I run copper denso TT in mine and I change them every other oil change which I do 4 times a year.  Why do I replace them so often?  I get them for 6 quid a set and its something to do while the oil is draining!  Is that overkill - most definitely yes.  But do I care about that - no.  It always ensures my ignition is tip top and that's all I care about.

    • Like 1
  3. this is why I like the copper TTs in my 140, still a decent sized electrode (its only a little smaller than a standard copper).  I don't care that I have to change them every so often - I mean its still not like an every-oil-change scenario.  And they are about £2 each.  And my engine really does like them.

  4. 45 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

     

    I don't think I've ever used Denso in the Celica. I think it had NGK in when I bought it and I just stuck with them.

    Looking at the Toyota Owner's Manual, I see that it recommends K16 for the 1ZZ (140) engine and K20's for the 2ZZ (190) engine, the 16 being the hottest running plug in the Denso range. Similarly, the recommended NGK plugs for those engines

    are 5' and 6's, again the 5's being the hottest.

     

    Are you running K20's in your 140 Gavin?

     

    no im running K16TT, I recommended 20's above as OP has a 2zz

     

    NGK "v" copper equivalents for both engines would be BKR5EYA and BKR6EYA

     

    EDIT: I should add that I really am a denso spark plug fan.  I saw a great quote on another forum somewhere and ive always found it rings true, in my experience.

     

    "denso - great for anything Japanese or Asian, and for anything else with an internal combustion engine too"

     

    I put denso plugs in everything I service from ancient VWs to a mates pretty new BMW and not once, ever, had an issue. 

  5. Got my replacement AC compressor, courtesy of member Spaff

     

    Came off his 35k mile car, bearings are all still SUPER smooth and it feels pretty much new.  Needs a little tidy up on the face of the magnetic clutch but its superficial only.  Bit of a clean and it will come up a treat before fitting, new o-rings & gas re-charge.  He was kind enough to include the three mount bolts, plus one surprise small bolt of unknown origin. (hope his engine doesn't fall out)

     

    It was wrapped in a Sainsburys shopping bag so he is obviously a little more upmarket than my humble Lidl fayre :P

     

    20180613_141858.jpg

     

    • Like 1
  6. buy yourself a set of Denso IK20. or IK20TT (even better)

     

    If you are feeling cheap a set of 4 Denso K20TT will work fine too, though with a shorter service interval.

     

     

    Yes, im a fan of the new Denso Twin Tip design, they work great in our cars.  (google it for more info - it is NOT multiple electrodes)

     

    Looking closer at your photo, I would hazard a guess that Number 2 & 4 have oil contamination from rocker cover gasket.  Number 3 actually looks normal.  Number 1 looks like water contamination.  again, all from the top side, not the cylinder side

  7. its not particularly unusual for old plugs to look like that.  Possible you have leaky rocker cover gaskets letting oil down the holes that can contaminate the threads and ceramic as well.

     

    Also, nasty bosch 4 prongs! eww

     

     

  8. 30 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

    Vacuum bleeding is popular and I've done it but I wonder about the extent to which you may suck bubbles of air in down past the threads on the bleed nipple. I always cover those threads with lots of PTFE tape, but that seals most effectively on tapered threads rather than parallel.

     

    Another option (for one-person bleeding) is to buy one of those little non-return valves (~£1) they use in fish tanks and connect that on the nipple, then just pump on the pedal.

    when I have to bleed on my own, I use a bleed tube with a one way valve on it.  I also put a thick blob of really sticky grease around the bleed nipple (once loosened) and really work it in to seal it from air being sucked past the threads.  I only wipe it off when ive tightened the nipple back down.

    • Like 1
  9. having thoroughly degreased, brushed, washed and hand dried every nook and cranny of the engine bay last week, today I went to the pound shop, bought a couple spray bottles of cheap degreaser and a small stiff nylon brush.

     

    Went to town degreasing and cleaning all the underside of my engine bay including the gearbox, steering rack, sump and all the underbits I could reach.  Without undertrays this is dead easy :)

     

    Now, the end result may not be "detailed" and I haven't polished any of the aluminium bits, but im very impressed with how clean everything has come up.  You can rub your hand against anything in there now and no dirt comes off.  Should make future engine work and leak detection easy if I can maintain it like this.  what has surprised me though is how nice the engine block, rocker cover, even the belt tensioner came up with just minimal scrubbing

    • Like 2
  10. 55 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

    Well, I clamped the hose and disconnected it from the caliper and there was no leak. But I came back a couple of hours later and the driveway is awash with brake fluid, reservoir well empty.

     

    So guess what comes now; yes, bled nsr, osr, osf then nsf and ....it is pretty spongy.

     

    So have just been reading the previous threads on this and the issue of the ABS cycling comes up; bugger :(.

    What to do next; MoT is looming?

     

    Spotted on another forum; best bleed clutch too, as common reservoir.

    sent you a PM

  11. 2 hours ago, bazz54 said:

    Well....while you are in the line, I've just spotted the comment where you refer to your 7 as "he"! Oh no, that cannot be right :blink:. James T. never referred the Enterprise as anything other than she. I regard mine as neutral, or female.

     

    is definitely a boy!  My car is Kirk (my cars name is literally Tiberius, as in James T) - im the enterprise being taken for a ride.

     

    Strange sexual innuendo not implied.

  12. 23 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

    Yep, think it's some crappy useless plating, so ideally, a primer for non-ferrous metals may be the best way to go, but probably not too critical.

     

    I'm sorting out some slight brake-binding (on 3 wheels :angry:) before my MoT. The fronts just needed cleaning and lubing to sort them out, but I'm going to install a near-new rear caliper that still has its silver plating on it. Back in 2011, I top-coated all the calipers in Humbrol Enamel paint and that is really hard and durable and has lasted really well, so they are now getting a re-coat.

     

    Newly painted calipers, newly powder-coated wheels...what a lovely old banger:wub:.

     

    Ive not bothered with primer on fresh new/recon calipers.  The plating seems to bind with the paint fine and keep the corrosion at bay.  I think its just super thin and wears off fast which causes the problems if you leave them "naked"

     

    Saying that, on ones I haven't painted and the plating has worn off, I find that a quick scrub with the rough side of a scrubby sponge thing keeps them looking decent and takes minutes when washing the car.  I never painted my new rear calipers on my 7, and they are nearly 2 years old and still look "new" with just a scrub once every couple weeks or so.

  13. 28 minutes ago, bazz54 said:

    Never been down that route, but it's some years since I last had new plates. Are we talking about the numbers of those docs or the actual docs?

     

    Would be unhappy about sending the docs in the post. Getting hold of a photo ID licence is really damn hard as it is. Think the last plates I had were made up in Edinburgh by some firm off ebay, but no docs involved.

     

    For some reason, I do think the condition of the plates really does reflect on the vehicle overall; could not live with iffy ones.

     

    my friendly factors - even though they have known me and my cars for YEARS - had to have the physical documents in their hands to make me the plates.  It only takes a couple minutes though and I was in and out with my new plates for 7 quid each in minutes.

  14. Ive been fed up with my cracked and damaged number plates looking skanky so I got some new (completely standard) ones made up.  Got the rear one replaced without drama.

     

    However, on fitting the front I put a permeant crinkle in the reflective backing just to the right of the last letter.  Its pretty obvious and looks crap :(

     

    Since I have already had two new plates made (and registered with the dvla) will it look dodgy if I get a third one made up to replace the one I crinkled?  it would mean a third plate swap being registered with them in like 3 days..... ?

     

    or should I just keep it now because the crinkle isn't infringing on the letters.

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