G.Lewarne
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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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Dunno. I do let mine drain for a very long time to get as much out as possible.
Don't matter though, I keep all the half litres I dont use and make a full oil change for my shitmobile every so often out of them. (Its happy with anything oily)
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My 140 with standard filter takes like 4.5 litres to max on the dipstick once the filter has filled up after first start
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57 minutes ago, slybunda said:
whats the quality like of the rubbers? are they like plastic or proper rubber quality?
I got the same ones, they feel pretty nice. Rubber, not plastic. Definitely felt firmer than the shagged ones I took off. fit perfect, no issues with them. Got the same upper isolater/shock boot as well - 1.5 years on and no tears or perishing
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41 minutes ago, CelicaDan94 said:
or maybe the van had a kyb sticker over the optimal logo...?
its all a conspiracy!
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2 hours ago, slybunda said:
How to tell if rear shocks are genuine? Got me worried about mine now.
Also i need front shocks who is safest to get them from?
honestly reboxing rebranding and/or faking is getting so prevalent now I basically avoid critical parts coming from eBay or overseas companies. I now only buy any super critical "holds my wheel on or slows me down" stuff from a couple local motor factors - and even then im choosy with the brand of part if there is a choice. you can inspect them on the premises and there are humans there if you have a problem. Most of the time its only a few quid more.
Im not sure about checking the rear shocks as I know mine are genuine (saw the KYB van drop them off to my local depot)
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not sure whats worse, the bug splatter or the jiggalo number plate
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I finished my super cheap (maybe 10 quid) and super lightweight (about 3kg total) "sound proofing" in the rear cabin and boot area today
Totally pleased with the results, quieter than my friends lexus now
even the exhaust is quieter in the cabin.
I await confirmation from another member before I post details.
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18 hours ago, Cal670 said:
Tried to stick one end of the fuel tank heat shield back on after it sheared last night. Will see how well it's stuck tomorrow.
that thing is a pain in the ass
I resorted to bending the edges of it over the fuel tank lip with some pliers to keep it in place. Seems to have held fine for a year
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21 minutes ago, ams said:
Can work both ways, I've bought cars from members on here that have had some serious (and even dangerous) bodges.
And to add to that Ive seen work by "specialists" of the same quality.
Really need to get the car checked out properly I guess....
sounds like you have some stories
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Replaced all three wiper blades with new Valeo units.
much better wiping than the bosch on there before and totally silent.
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y'all don't have forcefields?
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1) someone dinged it with a trolley (or something) in Tesco, rear wing area
2) reversed it into the corner of the skip someone badly placed behind my garage today
I cant have nice things
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is that a new design membership card?
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rear disc shields just had to go - luckily the inner plate and caliper bracket were in great shape or it would have been £££ to TCB for new ones
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after fitting a new front set of KYB shocks yesterday (after the "fakes" debacle), I finished the job properly with another full geometry alignment. Pleased to report front and rear are all in the green, car drives great
...in fact...better than ever if I may say so myself. feels super planted, firm and tight
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don't worry debs yours are all fine., I just remembered a couple other differences
On the fronts, the genuine ones have the droplink attachment plate exactly as in debs picture. on the "fakes" its a single small piece just welded at the end
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24 minutes ago, Kev 16v said:
Now you've got me worried, Gavin. I have a front pair waiting to be fitted. Are you able to expand (pardon the pun) on who the "on-line supplier of reasonable reputation" is?.
would prefer not at this time, I want to see what their response to my email is
look at yours and you see a sticker AND the KYB part number & "made in japan" stamped on the outward face of the shock. The top "plate" around the piston should be silver not black and be a flat disc with tacwelds. The weld around the very bottom of the shock where it has the hub plate pressed around it - it should be a continuous weld all around the tube, not just a few spot welds.
that was all the more obvious differences I could see
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So just over a year ago I completed a front end rebuild comprising, amongst other things a new set of KYB shocks - purchased from an online supplier of reasonable reputation
I recently went over a crater on the M5 at 70 mph and damaged my passenger side shock (blew the seal). So, to be thorough I bought another pair of KYBs from my trusted local supplier which were sourced right from KYB uk.
Imagine my surprise on extracting said blown shock and finding a totally different brand under the KYB Excel-G sticker - they are actually "Optimal" made shocks which seem to come from china and are the same basic make as most of the cheapo "rebranded" shocks out there. I guess faking the KYB sticker and box wasn't difficult.....
don't ever buy Optimal shocks. even the one on the undamaged side was totally fecked after just 1 year. 10mm free play up/down on the piston, squeaky seals, virtually no rebound pressure left, hard and soft parts along the stroke -oh, and rusty too.
I am usually very diligent when I source critical parts, but this time I was caught out and thought I would share the experience.
ps - with genuine KYBs at the front now and known genuine KYBs at the back it doesn't half ride stiffer ! its like its on rails
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its hard to say - you cant really judge someones enthusiasm, mechanical aptitude and preparedness with the usual short introductory posts. I think I remain positive with a hint of caution.
Certainly I think its pretty fair to be blunt about some issues such as preface 140 oil issues.
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Mr T's nut and bolt prices always confuse me. They are always so random. sometimes stupid cheap, other time you are like WHAAAA??
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1 hour ago, Tomb said:
Managed to crack my transmission case :-(, a day after giving her a clean underneath, made it easy to see the crack, but keeping positive gave a good excuse to move forward the oil change.
how on earth did you manage to crack it?
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all the ebay ones seem to be more expensive than from a local place too? I paid 7 quid each for mine with all the requisite makings on them and got them in minutes of handing over my paperwork.
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Ngk fakes are very very common.
Just go to a local motor factors they will be just as cheap
3 hours ago, bazz54 said:I expect that the difference in performance between those and the pricey ones could well be about the same as whether your car is carrying a full tank of petrol or its down to the last litre.
Not even that mate.
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I always look for the usuals in higher miles.
Rust, brakes & suspension (usually fooked), belts/chain and oil history
I accept that other things will be well on their way to knackered such as clutch and exhaust even if they seem ok on the test drive
I dont think I've ever bought a car which didnt have totally scrap brakes
Eurocar parts
in Consumable Parts
Posted
ive been keeping an eye on a few things they list, and MY GOD do they creep up the prices to absurd levels
a SINGLE front sachs shock for the 7 is now almost 200 quid. The KYB is much the same. I paid £70 inc vat each direct shipped from KYB head office to my local factor