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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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I just did a bit of googling on the e90r code on your FSL pads.
They are either rebranded form some other manufacturer, or ferodo make them and the pad compound is licensesd to others. I found Wagner and Stark branded pads with the same inspection code.
On my Ferodo FDBs the e90r code is unique to them
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FSL are their el-cheapo line. FDB (not fbl) are their premier line
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16 minutes ago, AlexD said:
That's where I was getting conflicting info. Some said red grease sliders others white silicon grease. So red grease can take the temperature?.
Unless you get your discs glowing, the sliders don't get that hot. Think of it this way - the main purpose of red rubber grease is to pre-lubricate rubber piston seals and rings inside callipers and brake cylinders during assembly (though I concede that is very small amounts)
I, and many others have been using red rubber grease on sliders for years without any issues whatsoever. Sometimes I use silicon, depends what ive got handy. My preference is for rubber grease though as I find silicon gives the sliders a less smooth slidey motion
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Red RUBBER grease (not just red, it must be for rubber) or Silicon grease on the caliper sliders. Anything else on these will swell the rubber boots, let water in and seize the sliders. Also, its worthwhile replacing the rubber boots (they just pop off with a little levering, hammer new ones on with a socket that they fit in) and the actual sliders if the old ones are pitted or scored. You can get a complete kit that includes the sliders, through bolts, rubber boots and silicon grease from brakeparts.co.uk
On the pad edges and other pad contact areas I use a little Ceratec which you can get form ECP for a few quid. This is a very high temperature, non dripping, non metallic, grease specifically designed for brake assembly on the metal to metal bits. Anything else is likely to melt. You don't need much, just a little smear. Put too much on and you end up with big globs of disgusting grease/brake dust/road grime mix.
For all the assembly bolts, a tiny smear of copper grease on the threads - its high enough temp to survive, and helps prevent the threads galling. Most people overdo it, but again you only need a tiny smear - with too much you actually alter the applied torque of the bolt and risk loosening.
I don't personally grease anything else.
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for those who need a new battery for a facelift, the 158 code cross references to a type 053 and is identical in size, capacity and CCA. Not sure why two different codes for the same type of battery, but there we go - also, lots of places cost the 158 higher than the 053, which is funny considering the old varta I pulled out had both numbers on it indicating it was indeed, exactly the same.
Now got a new Yuasa YBX3053 on it and boy does it crank fast now
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fuel pump priming issue / engagement issue on the apexi ?
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1 hour ago, ams said:
I used to find mine would take longer to fire up on any super fuels
i havent noticed any difference in this regard, its super fast all the time. but I do have new fuel filter, plugs, air filter and MAF. Usually fires in three "chugs"
I'm still on the same 15 quid Tesco momentum, it really does seem batter mpg.
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I did an experiment on Monday, I was down to the last block of fuel and decided to stick in fifteen quid of Tesco premium 99ron stuff.
Normally, I lose 1 block of fuel gauge per work round trip (about 16 miles, city / motorway mix, lots of traffic idling) with the normal 95ron stuff when the tank is lower than half full.
So far, in the whole week, ive only lost 3 blocks of fuel guage....in 5 trips + shopping at Tesco 10 miles from me.....?
Ive never had a car it seemed to make such a difference to. Am I experiencing a fluke or has anyone else noticed similar?
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unless the bearings are gone, I don't see any reason to replace the entire rear hub assembly. It is easy enough to get around the hub to replace the shoes.
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No post, but nearly!
Went to Mr T to get oil filter for upcoming oil change. £4,50, not bad. Enquired about prices of "their" oil, was given price of £49 for 5l of fully synth Toyota 5w40. Nearly choked on my free coffee in the waiting area. All I said was that's quite pricey, parts guy said how much do I normally pay? I had to think quickly, wasn't prepared for that and didn't want to take the pi$$ so said £29. Got the oil for £29. RESULT
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optional ejection seat
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33 minutes ago, Harry-Dave said:
Rear was £167.15. I'm debating giving it a further coating of hammerite or something to toughen it up before I ask for it to be fitted.
good idea, I would. I would also spray a crap load of waxoil into the box section through the small gaps at the end
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1 hour ago, Jim881 said:
I believe it's only 10hp. 5hp per sticker
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
no. In my super special case the sticker colour matches my paint colour creating a zero point energy field that actually reduces drag by two hundred percent at anything above 5mph
but, only for me
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Woohoo! got my extra free 20bhp today with 2x club stickers applied
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there is a place near me that does it. I watched it once when I was in the next industrial unit. The absolute sheer brutality of it puts me off. HUGE amounts of white smoke, I heard misfires, chunks coming out the exhaust, fast idling for long periods let alone the interference to the fuel lines and connectors - ill pass
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FOR SCIENCE!!!!!11111oneone
Today, in the post I received my el-cheapo MAF sensor and Coolant temperature sensor. The replacement MAF is not an ebay jobbie but from a UK distributor who sells pretty decent quality aftermarket units. Ive fitted sensors they have supplied to several cars over the years and not once ever had an issue. The Coolant temperature sensor was from carparts4less (ECP) and is an intermotor branded unit. MAF cost me £25 and CTS cost me a whopping £9
Neither of my existing sensors are outright bad, but sometimes I do get a MAF related CEL code even after its been cleaned. After 13 years and 130k miles I'm experimenting to see if I can increase my mpg a bit. If they don't work out or die, ill just put my current factory ones back on. If both the new sensors work without issue that's the complete closed loop A/F sensor trio replaced as ive already done my pre-cat lambda.
If the rain holds off, ill swap them over tomorrow, then perform an ECU reset. Ive got a reasonably long road trip planned for sunday which I can use as my mpg benchmark. Ill also (hopefully) get to see the marvellous spoon that Daytona received
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14 hours ago, Cal670 said:
But less JDM
only £2.30 inc shipping - did take 4 weeks though
I actually used a bunch today, work pretty well
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Today I received my bag of 100x China's most high quality plastic undertray/skirt/engine cover push clips
Even if they are rubbish and only last 1 use each time, ive got 100 of the things and its better than cable ties
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the factory covers also cover a good chunk of the front subframe and forward chassis meaning there could be giant rust holes they cant see.
is just covering their backs
Avensis brake pads
in Consumable Parts
Posted · Edited by G.Lewarne
The do have a 90r mark so are road legal, but they could be at the -15% of OEM performance of that legal range. They wont be fake crap, but may not be super great either.
90r allows for -15 to +15% of OEM performance coefficient of friction at certain temperature ranges, which is in reality a difference of 30% between the worst and best available, any other claims on 90r marked pads is marketing.
I'm by no means a brake snob, but I always try and find 90r pads at the upper range, which equates to FF or GF rated friction material on most toyotas, compared to FE at the lower end (the higher the letters, the higher the cold / hot friction).
For example, TMD friction pads are GF at the front and EE at the back (Mintex and Pagid) and although the front is decent, the rear pads are kinda crap for the friction ratings and makes it quite unbalanced *in theory*
Currently I run a set of Ferodo FDB up front (FF) and Solid Ace rears (rebranded Juratek compound) which are also FF. I don't have braided lines, but all my calipers are new including all sliders and it was bled thoroughly. On my stock facelift 275mm setup, and the brake performance is SCARY GOOD
In the UK and EU, the actual friction rating isn't required to be printed on the pads (although it is in the US) but you can usually determine what it is by trying to find the 90r certificate online. Some more info here
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1553395-Brake-Pads-what-you-need-to-know-friciton-codes
and here
https://ebcbrakes.com/ece-r90/