Zuban

forget the rest, replace the water with a fluid cooled by your air con. This is what we are talking about, and remember at ambient pressure the restriction across the heat exchanger will be a lot less than when running boost and efficiency will not be the same, your standard intake with paper filters etc already provides plenty of resistance, and there are ways to negate that. The problem is you probably cant cool the fluid efficiently enough to produce a positive power benefit.

the other way round, as pressure drop across an intercooler increases as boost increases, at ambient pressure you could probably negate the intake resistance by sitting your intake in the front bumper in a way that take advantage of the ram air effect. The problem would be finding a system that would cool the intake charge enough to increase power without costing more power in terms of driving pumps etc, or negate the added weight.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Four-stroke-Performance-Tuning-Graham-Bell/dp/0857331256 that's the book. I did a bit more reading on the ford supercooler and its not quite what I thought it was at first, its more like a storage tank air cooled by the air con compressor that you can use when you want, a bit like a shot of nitrous in a way.

not sure tbh theres not a whole lot of facts out there about it, I do think its one of those things that in theory its a good idea, but in practice the complications and benefits just don't add up, otherwise it would be pretty common on forced induction, let alone on an NA.

Those are very good books indeed well worth a read. What wilo was asking wasn't about simply fitting an intercooler to an NA engine, but something more like a chargecooler where your pumping fluid that's below ambient temp to reduce the intake charge below ambient aswell. Ford did something called the supercooler, which used the air con to cool the fluid in a chargecooler, although that was still on a forced induction engine. Its not that silly an idea its just that in practical terms its unlikely to work well enough to be worthwhile.

There is a guy in australia who made copies of the TRD ITB manifold, they were very good, they allowed the fitting of either silver or blacktop 4a-ge itb's, or any other ones using the same mounting holes, dont know if he's still doing them or has any left though. Its not a very cost effective way of getting power but they do sound great.

i'm an old fashioned guy also it was what the graphs in lol

yup to be more exact though when dealing with ft.lb the formula is bhp = (ft.lb x rpm) / 5252 and to work out the torque its ft.lb = (bhp x 5252) / rpm I think the emanage ultimate might be the best piggyback tbh, it has a reasonable resolution on the tables, 16x16 iirc? can advance ignition timing and can control the vvti, I have used one in the past before i went to the power-fc and they are nice bits of kit, i never had mine tuned though just fitted it up for a play with. I'm just not sure you will get the same results from any piggyback as you would standalone, thats not to say you wont though, the only other beams i know of that was mapped using an emanage ultimate did make very decent figures, but I cant make any comparison to the above as there was very little information on it as it was from cypris.

bhp is a calculation based on torque and rpm, there is a lot of good articles on the relationship, its worth taking the time to get your head around. When they say 10bhp yeah they mean peak, if you look at a dyno graph though you could pull a bhp figure for any rpm point, ecu tuning the beams is going to show bigger gains throughout the rpm range than it will at peak bhp, this is based on the others i've seen. The quality is poor but here is a copy of the dyno printout from RST's mr2 beams, mods were intake and decat with 2.5 inch exhaust iirc, and a link g3 standalone ecu, and the maf replaced with a map sensor, although the maf i think was left in place to use its temperature sensor. 183bhp and 155ftlbs at the wheels, prior to the ecu being fitted, peak bhp at the wheels was approx 157bhp at 6500rpm. Personally whilst a dyno graph like the above is nice, I prefer to see a table of rpm increments with the bhp or torque value for those points, its easier to get your head round this way. So the above graph might look something like this approximatly : RPM BHP 2500 61 3000 76 3500 78 4000 100 4500 130 5000 139 5500 153 6000 170 6500 177 in that example the peak was 183bhp at 6800rpm, but really thats just one figure, and not one you can solely base performance on, as in reality your accelerating through all the rpm points not just the peak one, so any increase in those figures above will translate into faster acceleration, peak bhp could remain the same but if you increased the torque, and therefore the bhp between 4000 and 6000rpm, but did not increase peak, then you will still be accelerating faster. I dont know whether an emanage ultimate would give the same results, or the person mapping it, but there is quite a bit of performance to be extracted from the beams through ecu tuning, peak bhp is one thing but the gains in the midrange are much more significant. The example above has more torque at the wheels than the stock engine did at the flywheel through the midrange, thats going to be very noticable when driving the car as its like 20ftlb+ of torque above standard.

The beams already has the spacer between the intake manifold and head that helps prevent heat migration. Tuning wise I think the best option is to look into a standalone ecu and mapping, you will get more power and driveability, plus it will then there and ready should you decide to boost or na tune at a later date. Takes a chunk out of the cost of any of those projects and you get the benefit meantime.

I ran 16x8's on my ss3 and it had an abundance of grip and handling was good, 225/45/16's. That was on track and a little road, I ran 225/45/16's on 7.5 inch tyres on road too but in terms of getting the sidewall sitting square the 8 inch rims do a better job, I have 225 wide tyres on 7 inch rims on my st205 and its not a great combo they feel too soft. Wider tyres will handle increased load better and as you have added a few kilo's over the front end and some extra power aswell then you can put more load and heat into the front tyres so the wider tyre will help imo, just match them.

the black top beams ecu is further from the red top than the 1zz-fe is, brashboy in japan used the blacktop power-fc in a kit that used it in conjuction with the original ecu, its far from plug and play, you can make a standalone out of the 1zz-fe power-fc far far easier. It would still need mapped.

friend of mine tried unichip on his beams and they could not make it work, was a waste of time. He ended up with a standalone link g4 done by rogue motorsport. The only succesfull piggyback I've seen was a long time ago and it was an emanage, on a car in Cyprus so I have no details although I had full exhaust including manifold and intake, but it was making about 220bhp fly after tweaking which is pretty good. Edit- actually got that mixed up, it was my friends who made 220bhp with the standalone, the one in Cyprus with emanage was showing 179bhp at the wheels, which is still really good. more details here, they used emanage ultimate, which I think can alter vvti but its been a long time since I had one : http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/7792-Beams-Dyno-results-registry?p=97005&viewfull=1#post97005 http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=36910&st=0

Theres nothing quite like covering an ep3 in your faff's petrol fart as you leave it behind!

from the sound of the test mule they had at the nurburgring it doesnt sound at all like its revving as high as the previous screamers so will be surprised if it revs as high

also technologically every manufacturer has and uses the equivalent of vtec its now more a marketing thing like 16v was for a while although I bet this will be a pretty good engine with lots of potential.

vtec just kicked in yo! or was it the turbo.. urgh. Glad to see Honda have realised that NA engines just cant cut it anymore in terms of power and efficiency, should have done it a civic ago though.

my corolla t-sport with a few mods, and decent suspension would beat a stock ep3 convincingly, but stock, and mod for mod the ep3 is always going to have the edge i think.

sh*** all same as any other dealership employee, many haven't even heard of cars. go armed with part numbers, and also just go round the counter and use the parts database, I did that once, and I sensed a little confusion as to why I was able to navigate it as well as them lol...

huh?

yeah people don't look at things rationally or holistically sometimes, so end up paying 2-300 quid a month on a nice if dull new car either on finance or lease etc, but if you stick 200 quid a month into a bank account, that's enough to keep a faff well looked after each year. my favourite is the "oh I couldn't afford a car like that!" when reffering to something like a faff or an evo etc. That person then go's and spunks 15 grand on new or near new 1.4 hatchback of blandness thinking they have it sussed. Thing is 15 grand will get you a tommi makkinen edition evo, and leave you with enough money to run it for three years before selling it for as much as it cost you if you keep it right, there is tons of cars far more interesting and exciting to own for that sort of money over the same time period. What they are doing though is absolving themselves of any hassle in ownership, which is fair enough some people don't want to be worrying about older cars and potential breakdowns etc, its just the argument that they cant afford it when they quite clearly can that's annoying!. if your old man is like mine, and has bought new cars or nearly new cars, just remind him that the amount he has lost in depreciation probably eclipses what you've spent on mods, and he aint ever getting that back!

about the st205 i've had the following recently but i've generally always had this rubbish from people who dont know anything but insist on giving opinion s lol. Oh you've still got that car? when are you going to get something decent? why are you wasting all your money on that? (odd really considering they have no idea how much has been spent on it, and when they are informed that its less than the monthly payments over the same time period on there new kia econobox they look, well.. rather sad!.) why are you modifying that, do you think your going to do a better job than toyota? ( they presumably worked for toyota at some point in the past and know catagorically as fact that toyota reached the absolute pinnacle of perfection in every aspect of the car and that it was tailored, individually for everyones needs. ) But your cars always in the garage you need something more reliable. ( the car go's to the garage once a year, its called the MOT.. and it has never once broken down to date ).