VVTI

I am getting everything supplied all in one hit anyway alloy wheel nuts and locking nuts already it's not a panic. It is just is it worth changing it all to steel ones, as the general consensus on here is yes. I will wait to see what is supplied and order some suitable new steel ones, the alloy ones should last a few weeks without snapping i hope?

Had a look on another alloy web site (Demon Tweeks) as I was trying to find out what size nuts I needed and if they are flat end or tapered like my stock ones, and they are also saying Wheel nuts/bolts Going from running steel wheels to a set of alloys? You’re going to need new wheel bolts/nuts then (depending on what your car has fitted)! The type of fixings you use on steel wheels are not suitable for use with alloy wheels – because they’re much harder. This means that they can eventually chew through the bit of the alloy responsible for holding them to your hubs! Didn't think wheel nuts are so complicated. I think I need M12x1.5 ? but I haven't found the lug diameter of the bolas yet. I think I will have to wait until they turn up. shame I can't use my stock ones they lasted 16 years and still perfect condition.

I am in the process of buying my very first set of brand new alloys ever. Should be getting them by the end of next week My question is the company I am getting them from send all the fittings as well. I asked them what type the nuts are - steel or alloy, and the replied alloy as steel ones would damage the wheel. Is this correct, or are they fobbing me off with cheapo ones. I don't want to damage my new wheels, but steel nuts will be much stronger and less prone of rounding. I am getting some Bolas if that makes any difference. What do you recommend? Thank's in advance

If you always wanted a custom exhaust, probably best to put your money towards that. Back box is only held on with two spring bolts, so no welding involved. Sure a local garage might do a little cash in hand to fit it. Only cost me £30 to get mine put on.

It's a novel way to experience lift in a 140, think I will give it a miss though.

The only thing I hear is your exhaust baz, probably why it don't bother you, you cant hear it

inside only for warning, unless you open the windows

I see your reason for taking the pin out, for resale reasons. But as mine is pushing a 100k on a pre face lift 140 I think I will be the last owner so i'm not to bothered. As its not burning oil yet, I am getting the most fun out of it that I can without it beeping at me. lol

Guess I do take a while to reverse out of my garage (think it was designed for a motor bike) its that small. haha

I can't take it anymore the reversing beep is so annoying, I'm in a celica not a lorry. Anyway a quick internet search, has answered my irritation. A 10 min job of taking the dash out and cutting one single wire and peace has now returned yay. I can't believe I have put up with that for over a year, for the sake of 10 mins work. Has anyone else done this or am I too easily irritated?

I had a car many years ago with a similar fault. Drives perfect most of the time then strangely cuts out with out warning and then refuses to start. After countless confused months in and out of garages. It turns out the petrol tank started flaking on the inside and the flakes blocked the petrol line staving the engine. Left for a while the fakes would settle down again enough to allow petrol the to flow again, only found this out by fitting a in line see through petrol filter. Had to get a new petrol tank fitted an pipes flushed though, but it never happened again.

I have done the de butterfly mod on my 1999 140 with no bad side affects just more responsive and louder exhaust, so it should be fine on yours. I stay away from supermarket fuel, that might be a factor in lumpiness what do you use, shell is the best but I use my local BP which seems fine. sound Maff sensor again but no expert myself.