toiletduck

I remember AMS (I think) saying there's no point in skimping on sensors since they last so long - best to go Denso or similar "proper" brand. Hopefully that's not too paraphrased, he was talking about lambdas but I assume same applies.

£300 GT seats or £300 on proper buckets is the question - I don't feel like the bolsters on Celica seats are really doing very much, and as much as I love the look of the GT seats, it's a lot of money for no added support. My last car was an MG ZR like, and the bolsters on that may well give kidney damage before you get used to them. Wonder what aftermarket buckets are like in a daily?

Mind linking where you got them Joe? I've seen your setup on your thread, does look very cool. Is it going over to the MR2?

Bit off-topic, but how do the deep dish wheels change your driving position? I can sort of imagine feeling like it's too close to me, but haven't ever driven a non-standard wheel.

Besides rotten drop links, they're macpherson struts so quite straightforward. Should be a guide in the stickies

Uh - I've had mine a year and put 12k on it. I'd much rather be in your position and not have had to do boring miles in it (ie town commutes) - seems like a positive to me!

I'm assuming you mean this one - cant imagine 140/190 are different? http://www.polybush.co.uk/assets/mailshots/admin/Celica_VVTI_140_2001__.pdf

How much do you reckon you'd do the exchange thing for? How much is just the camber bush? Sorry for being a bit clueless

It's something I'd be interested in - and I reckon a few others with seized camber bolts, as that question is quite regular/common - doing as cheap as possible realistically, without taking on too much work (ie figuring out how to burn out a bush) - was thinking of getting a subframe off AMS and doing it that way as plan A but not sure I want to take on that battle!

Is the rear camber bolt part of these bushes? I'm vaguely meaning to fix that at some point...

Well, that's likely because I didn't get one... I chuck everything car wise into the leather wallet thingy just for somewhere to put them and definitely didn't get anything but four spacers in the package! Particularly aware as we had the slight mishap of not getting the sizes requested etc. Fair enough if there's a note in there already. I did note that your spacer description (http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/142615-wheel-spacers-explained/) that the minimum size for bolt ons is 27mm, so selling the 22mms in that size seems like it could do with a heads up. Obviously a trained mechanic would spot it alone, but you're not selling to trained mechanics; and it turns out 22mm can be easily masked by the studs biting into an alloy. Just having all this info up front instead of scattered across various spacer threads would prevent misunderstandings is all I'm saying.

In fairness, it might be worth sticking a little print out in with the spacers. I realise that anything on a car is potentially dangerous, but I'm getting these recommendations 1,000 miles after fitting them! Not trying to point any fingers or shift blame as obviously it was my fault, but when I asked for fitting details I was just told it's the same as fitting wheels, which obviously it wasn't

Right, so - spent a few hours on the car with a mate who's been a mechanic for years. Turns out the original studs on the rear stand proud of my spacer. As far as I can tell, previously the rears were torqued up evenly, so the alloys were being held against the studs, and a slight gap off being flush with the actual spacers. The non-wobbly alloy had consistent depth marks from the original studs, and the wobbly side had varied depths around the circle. Last time it was off, a friend had torqued up the wheel in question, and I forgot to tell him to do it in a star pattern. On closer inspection, the alloy had a 1mm-ish gap off the spacer on one side, which accounted for the wheel wobble. I pulled both rears, and took an angle grinder to the studs and got them below the spacers. Wheels are now flush and stood on spacers instead of studs! Wobble seems to be gone. Didn't expect to have to do that, but it's a bit odd if I have freakishly long stock studs. I used the two nut method to tighten in the spacer studs, and the previous thoughts on them being compromised seems like it might have been wrong. I'm hoping the ten miles I did with mega wobble hasn't done any damage!

Ah yeah good shout - didn't think of it like that. I did screw them in with a rag and unlocked molegrips to get them down into the spacer, but two nut should get better purchase still. Cheers for explaining

I'll report in tomorrow, but logically the lug nut is tightening the spacer stud into the spacer. Torque wrench still clicks at 70ft/lbs on that corner, that surely can't happen if tightness is the issue? I figure it either has to be that the spacer's hole is compromised and the studs can wobble in them, or, though I don't think it's likely, that I forgot to tigthen up the nuts to the brake hub. The latter would be a bit embarrassing but much easier to sort!

You'd think wouldn't you? I didn't at all, but there's no way someone is going to pull me over and call out the exact spacer that four studs came out of yesterday by coincidence... I'm a bit scared to take it for a drive to see if I can feel it!

Well, bit of an update today - I had the fronts off and two studs that came out yesterday swapping nuts stayed put. However, had a bit of a fright driving home. Got followed home by a guy who followed me for a good few minutes - I couldn't tell if he was flashing at me but did wonder. He let me know my nearside rear was oscillating like crazy, which is the one that had four studs come out. Clearly something wrong! I'd just checked they held torque at 70ft/lbs from yesterday too, so it's not that they came loose.

I didn't - I saw the same conversation in a previous thread to just finger tighten and then the lug nuts would tighten them in, and not use the 2 nut method. I forgot to mention that I was changing over my lug nuts to some spline drive closed nuts instead of the rusting chrome plated open nuts I had - otherwise I could have just screwed the stud back in using the lug nut attached to it.

I'll pick some up for when I next have the wheels off. Thinking about it, I made a mistake in that I assume the two nut method would have worked to get purchase on the stud to remove the lug nut. Arse. I *think* most of the marked stud ends are lug nut side rather than spacer side, but not super confident. Not really sure if I should be worried about the whole thing? Four studs came out of the driver rear side, one front drivers, one rear passenger, so I guess three have enough good studs to not be a concern - how likely am I to lose a wheel at some point (as that must be worst case!)

I used blue loctite - all I can think was that it was raining when I fitted them and it might not have sealed. There wasn't any obvious corrosion or anything spacer side. I did hesitate to re-use them, but needed the wheels back on. Hopefully they stay put this time, not sure if it's worth picking up some new studs in case they do come out again so I can drop new ones in with full threads. I did run a nut down a couple of the studs and it seemed to bring the thread back up from being flattened, though obviously this wont have happened by screwing into the alu spacers - in hindsight, probably should have done that on all the studs. I think the old nuts starting to corrode may have been why they bound on to the stud so tightly - no evidence of threadlock there, but I'm a bit surprised they came out together so easily. Had to get grip on them to be able to take the lug nut off, and using molegrips any slippage ate the threads up. Did get better at this after having to do it a few times though. I got them finger tight and then put the wheel back on, as Stewart advised that just putting the lug nuts back on will tighten the new studs in. All a bit of a pain really!

Hey guys - Just a quick one: is it normal for hubcentric spacer studs to come out (even when threadlocked) when taking out wheel nuts? I had to vice six or seven studs today to get the nuts off after they came out of the spacer entirely, and that's marked threads on them. They seemed to screw back on okay, and I've got the wheels back on now. Am I missing something? Should I be concerned about the threads looking flattened on the studs where I've molegripped them?

People seem to make a really big fuss about not letting the master cylinder get low though? Is that just to save bleeding all four corners anyway?

Is that enough to stop it if I leave it a few days though? Option two was baggie and tie wrap around the banjo circle bit, might be a bit more straightforward...

Hey guys - I've been trying to google this one, but figured I may as well see if anyone has any nice solutions - I want to take my rear calipers off to paint and refurb, but really can't be arsed to have to empty the whole system of fluid. I was thinking of some kind of nut and bolt through the banjo circle instead of a banjo bolt would prevent fluid loss? Not sure which bolt (and potentially washers) I'd need though. Feels like it'd be a bit easier if I could just get an old banjo bolt welded shut! Any thoughts or better solutions?