Ownleemee

I use Chipex on my Storm Blue T-sport, I'm happy with it.

Can anyone post a link for some lock covers , all I'm getting on Google are bloody ones for the House !

Kuhmo Ecsta's get my vote.

I have a lot of faith in JB Weld, I repaired a crack in my Fireblade engine with it ! I understand your concern with the repair piece being ingested but it does not fit right trough the hole and once I am ready to fit the piece back in, if there is any doubt I will wrap aluminium around it with rubber under it, without the original torn off piece.

Hopefully this post should contain some after & before pic's. There was a useful unused threaded fixing stub on the CAI tube which I used to mount a bracket from there to a close by pipe bracket mounted on the block,I also used a new larger metalastic mount. I have left the duct tape on for now as I want to make sure the new bracket works O.K. for a few weeks. If it works fine I will then cut the original bracket off of the piece of tube that tore out and use the piece of tube and some JB Weld to repair the hole.

That's what I have done with some super sticky rubber under it as well, then an "L" bracket and a jubille clip to pick up the original mount ! Not pretty but hopefully when I get round to the proper repair it will look tidy. As I said earlier, I want to mount from the engine block so the movement is not restricted by connection to the chassis, just seems to make more sense to me.

'kin eck, that,s a lot of dough for the Injen, thats confirmed I will repair rather than replace. I really must sort out a Photobucket account so it's easier to upload pictures, I have a repair in mind that if it works wold be worth sharing.

The fixing bracket on my AEM CAI has torn out. I am really surprised how thin the metal is. Ghetto Rigged to get home (at work at the minute), repair options of maybe using JB Weld or something like that, i don't know any welders who would takle such thin aluminium. i will probably revisit the hole bracket / fixing solution, the original "cushy" mount may be too stiff. I think a mount from the engine block would be a better option as there should be no conflict between moving and fixed components then. Unable to load pictures from work PC.

Storm Blue !

Thanks Cleario, nice honest opinion, it's what I need to know before making a mistake someone else has already made !

Those are nice, maybe an option although I fancy the "valveless" look.

Thats a good point, I have jut had to replace 2 valves on my wheels today as the alloy valve caps had seized on. I intend using Copperslip on any exposed threads.

Once I get my refurbe'd wheels back, I am thinking of using these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200933401507?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 has anybody got them or have any experience of them ?

Daily Drive round trip to work 50 miles a day.

It does look the mut's though.

Don't know the code but I believe it's called Sunspot Yellow.

Like This

If I was respraying at the moment, I would go for a metalic Yellow, there is a MG near me, not sure if it's a standard colour but it looks really smart, just a shame its on manky MG !

Me Too !

Whilst on the subject of Bronze / Brown , whats with the current trend for 70's style mud colored cars ? So drab looking..............still, better than every other one being Silver !

Don't forget the Flat Cap & Pipe !

You only get rust on iron or steel.

K&N Panel filter. (Gen 7), Aero Wipers all round on any model.

I got a kit which had a pad holder and polishing pads to put in an electric drill which is what I used, due to the security regime of where I work, we do not take cameras in and I did it in a slightly (50%) extended lunch hour.

Cerium Oxide is the nuts, an hour and a half of polishing and you wouldn't have known it was scratched, phew ! Update on method, put dark paper under the scratch on the inside, shows up lots better.