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geraintthomas

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Everything posted by geraintthomas

  1. Likewise! Can't wait to try it I uhh.. never thought of it like that. Oops!
  2. Could always see if ams has one, just to rule it out? But I can see what you're saying about the ECU. If every time you reset it the car appears fine, then I'd also think the same. Really strange that matey.
  3. Exactly. The gear gaiter is good to test as it's just an eBay one for a tenner. Can't go wrong!
  4. Check this out. There's been quite a few people who have done this, and with very good results. Obviously the first downfall would be if it rubbed off, but a lot of people are saying that it holds up perfectly if you use a good fabric dye pen. This guy does it with a red sharpie, and holds the tip on the stitch while it absorbs it. So if it holds up perfectly, cheap to do, and looks that good - then why not? I'm going to give this a try but I'll do it on the gear gaiter first, as I have one with light stitching to match the seats.
  5. I too don't have a Shell garage close by. But plenty of Tesco garage. So filling up with Tesco Momentum 99 is notably better than their 95 stuff yeah? And how far off is that from Shell's V-Power?
  6. I like it when it's on the outside of the lights, but not so much on the inside parts. Give it a quick photoshop
  7. Exactly - best be safe than sorry! But like I said, for the price of a facelift 140 you can get a pre-facelift 190. You'll have that fantastic engine and what not. You can always change the front bumper and rear lights for ones off Ebay to change the exterior to a facelift 190 then, so you're getting the best of both worlds. But then again, a facelift 140 will have a darker, prettier dash, better dials, facelift rear lights and front bumper as standard, and a longer 6th gear ratio for quiet motorway cruising. It's what you want out of it really mate. If you want one to be quieter and using a lot of motorway journeys, while not hugely bothered about speed, get the 140. If you wanted the 190 but just can't afford it, but can afford a facelift 140, then just get the pre-facelift 190.
  8. You get a cross over period. Check the other bits like the rear lights, dial faces, interior plastic colours, and the front disc size. There's plenty of differences
  9. If it hasn't got a facelift front end then it's probably a pre-facelift engine. They changed around 03 so you'll see some pre-facelifts on an 03 plate. If I were you? Don't buy it. Get a facelift car (the differences can be found on this forum between the two), and have peace of mind that it'll be fine. Yes the facelift engine could have problems if it was neglected, but thats few and far in between - if you buy a pre-facelift 140 you're asking for trouble. Save up a little more and get a facelift 140. But, for the price of a facelift 140, you can get a pre-facelift 190, and those engines never had issues so might be worth considering.
  10. Basically lacquer it and wait for it to dry. After that, flatten off the coat once it's hard and polish it back up. Then if it's still got orange peel, flatten it again, polish it back up and check. Once good, repeat it with more lacquer. It does take a lot of lacquering, rubbing back and polishing but if you're patient it'll look great. Same here mate. I used Halfords lacquer before and had average results. The moment I used Simoniz (spelling?) lacquer the results were far better!
  11. £100 for a carbon bonnet, front and rear bumper veilside, and genuine veilside exhaust? The guy who won must be bouncing!
  12. Ah I see! nice. It's always harder on bigger parts. Just did my Wilwood Calipers with an absolute perfect finish on them, but it's easy as you can really lay it on thick.
  13. That's still a little rough though Celica1977 he's on about a perfect glossy finish. Primer, sand, base coat, sand, base coat, sand, lacquer, sand, lacquer, sand, polish. With smaller objects you don't need to as you can really build up the thickness of it to get rid of that 'orange peel' effect.
  14. Much play in the steering wheel with the engine turned off?
  15. A screwdriver will get them off but 9/10 you're going to snap a clip. I wouldn't do that as Center caps are hard to come by!
  16. Normally if an ABS sensor in one of the wheels is faulty, it'll think the wheels are spinning at different speeds when you reach a certain speed, hence why the warning light comes on at 50mph and goes when going slower. Happened to my dad's Passat!
  17. Normal for them to dim ever so slightly.
  18. The first link, but make sure you select 'H7 Metal Base' bulb type and '5000k' temperature!
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