_Chris_

Keep throttle light and go down gears rather than increasing throttle to go up hills. High RPM is no problem as long as throttle is light so clutch doesn't slip. Pull away at low RPM / light throttle and don't give it any more throttle until clutch fully engaged. From my experience of modern cars (in relative terms) the clutch tends to wear more on the pressure plate side and rarely go to rivets on the flywheel side even when slipping badly.

I've known a few of my local ones have started leaking from the oil pump gasket. The bolts seem to come loose then the gasket blows out. Pain to change as it's a sump off job. Nothing to worry about though.

Until it's full. As in if you put any more in it runs down the outside.

I travel to both fairly frequently but less so at this time of year. If you can wait a few weeks I can probably help.

Rubbing the thin dirt shield ?

Look at it either way, the result is the same. Car travelling at 30MPH, make the wheels 10% bigger diameter the axle RPM will be 10% lower so the speedo will read 10% low (27MPH) Axle RPM constant at an RPM which would give 30MPH with standard wheels. Make wheels 10% bigger, car will travel 10% faster (33MPH) while speedo still reads 30. Either way, the speedo reads 3MPH (10%) less than your actual speed. This all assumes the speedo is accurate to start with. If, for example, it reads 5% high (as most do) then a 5% increase in diameter will make it accurate.

Sorry to point out the mistake in the guide, but I can clearly see some s**t on the window that wasn't cleaned off before applying the CCUK sticker

Should be possible to to a tempory repair by the roadside. Most common breakage is that the lead pulling out of one of the crimp-on ends. If this is the case, just open up the end and remake. The lead is normally a carbon conductive core (black strands) surrounded by insulation. If necessary, srip the insulation further back to leave about 10mm of carbon sticking out which then folds back over the insulation and goes into the crimp. If the wire has broken in the middle, get a short length of metal wire, staple, paperclip etc. and push half length into the centre core each side to bridge then wrap round with tape to stop it pulling apart. Keep the join away from wiring or metal as it will not be well insulated. Alternatively, as above, a motor factor is likle to have ignition cable he can crimp your ends onto.

If needed, grind flat first OR drill from the other side. Use a small pilot drill first and make sure you get it central. You MUST use washers - the one which shows how it should be done, the nut has almost dissapeared down through the hole.

Well, polishing isn't my strong point as anyone who knows me will agree (have never polished a car in my life - that's what a car wash is for). Anyway, I have some kiddie rides to re-furb ready to go back to site next month. 10 years old, sun bleached and battered gel coat. So following some advice from a friend of a friend over xmas and this thread I invested £20 in backing plate and box of pads and another £35 on cutting compound and polish. Polished up ready to get beaten up and covered in mud within days. Another one same age and from same site before washing / polishing.

Is the Gen 7 an offset cam/bolt type assembly like the GT4 ? These are renownded for seizing. Spray all bolts / nuts / joints in question with WD40 regularly for a week then try again. If still no joy, try heating with a blowtorch (oxy can be a bit OTT unless you're careful) and try again. I'd be very surprised if they can't get the bolts out without damaging arms etc. Cut the heads / nuts to remove parts from car and then bang through with an air hammer or SDS drill set for hammer only. Another alternative is to get a complete rear subframe with suspension from a car being broken so you gan soak joints and get them undone at your leisure then swap over as necessary.