digs

thanks guys, will give them another go later this week and actually just use a torque wrench god knows what I did torque them up to....

Bought some second hand bolt on hub centric spacers last week, went to fit them last night. Apart from sticking the wheel out too far, when I tightened up the steel tapered wheel nuts I was using before, I gave it to much on the breaker bar and sheered on of the studs right off! I did them up too tight obviously, but anyone got any toque settings for bolt on spacers ? I bought 4, now have 3 and a broken one....

Took the coach from Cardiff to London Sat, back Sun, saw none the entire time. All i saw were endless silver/grey euro box like mini cars and 4 by 4s, punctuated only by a purple something JDM, and a VW with lumo wheels. It was an incredibly grey, boring sight....massed armies of uniformed soulless cars....

have been chit chatting to the woman who sits next to me for months on and off about bits of work I am doing to my car when the topics of "what you up to at the weekend" comes up. I showed her a picture of it today, and she said (ish) " I thought you had an old banger the amount you fiddle with it, not a beautiful car!". Which was good and also not so good

interesting link, needs to get pretty hot before worth bothering with an oil cooler by that. and in fact could be detrimental.

no pipes, no danger of leaks, just stuck to the front

So, pondering when i see lots of adverts for them. When do we need oil coolers ? Is it only for racing applications, needing it for track days etc ? Or with a turbo should they go hand in hand ? One more point of failure ? Only temp record I have so far is from mot, where it was recorded at 100c. Oil pressure is a pretty uniform 20 once warmed up and cruising without excessive load. correct my understanding here.....oil too hot = pressure drop = bad ? And no , this isn't because I want a red anodised external cooler. Well, little bit.

hear you on the challenge, it's cool it's different everyone has a faff round here, too common

Because I fix my car on the street outside my flat (and wash it!) get a lot of people wandering over, chatting about the car, kids staring at it as their embarrassed parents drag them away mumbling they will want to be a mechanic when they grow up, old boys poking about in the engine bay, people commenting on how nice it looks, and usually surprised when they know how old it is Few come up when they see me working on it saying they wandered who owned it! Love it

I like it, works in the context of a hybrid style car. The whole thing is pretty amazing

Theres a thread on here somewhere where JeffRosie goes through what's needed for the 3sge. Compression rate is 10.3:1, the 3sfe and 7afe have rations of 9.5:1, which is getting better, 3sgte is 8.5:1 all courtesy of wiki on here. Honestly, the amount you would pay, buy the 3sgte engine on sale here(if it still is) much better value! Though it is fun doing it the hard way

3SFE and the 2nd gen 3sgte have bits you can swap (oil sump, exhaust manifold, brakes)

well that would make sense then! EDIT: so the ecu will advanced timing when it learns that the fuel it is using is burning slower? Or similar?

Re: fuel....my understanding, High octane is better against knock, yes? That's why we have it.... You can therefore tune your car (or buy it like that) to run leaner than normal and that should give more mpg (and less risk of detonation). Running a car whose ECU does not run leaner with higher octane fuel would treat the fuel exactly the same, and use as much ? EDIT - cope with more advanced ignition Apart form cleaning additives to clean the injectors and improve that side of things, how can the higher octane work unless the Toyoyta ECUs can recognise? Or have I lost the plot? I use high octane to avoid knock on a boosted engine, and can tune for that using emanage. Does the normal ECU recognise the new fuel somehow?

ok, cool, just need to get purchase I guess. Will give it a go

I know I ask a constant stream of questions.... So, have a GT4 spoiler in lovely red. Getting a white normal spoiler sent through, and I want to remove the red riser blocks off to attach them to the white spoiler (as I think white red white will look sweet). Except.....for some reason toyota decided to use one way bolts!! Can't get any needle nose down the hole to them (without buying longer ones), anyone know cunning tricks to get these off ?!? Or a link to the right tool (my Google Skill is only a Level 3, so no dice there). And I thought it would be a 5 minute job.....

Yes, it's pretty even, which is one of the reasons was struggling to find it. I do have different injectors in, so it would make sense if it was that, as they could be making a louder sound than my old ones and so I am picking up on it now, as its "different". No issues with idling, engine surges etc. Thanks for taking time to listen and give advice

Thanks. Not sure on this side of things, my engine manual says "Adjustment of the valve clearance is done by means of an outer shim type system, in which valve adjusting shims are located above the valve lifters" That mean they are manual and adjustable? Will use a mic at different spots I think to pinpoint where its coming from (did think exhaust gasket leak as did have that before, but doesn't seem to be coming from that area...sounds more metallic as well). Also, just started her up again and was at lot less noticable...doing a tuning run tomorrow morning so will monitor. Thanks for listening!! EDIT: My manual actually has full process for checking valve clearance etc, handily! Something new to learn

Seems to be coming from behid throttle body, near injectors (which I changed a month ago) maybe worth taking valve cover off again and redoing.... (I know I am answering myself...)

Hi, recorded my engine starting up....you can hear a tapping sound. It is louder when listening (can hear it inside the care), seems to be coming from top of engine. However not ruled out something not secured yet that is banging about, only started recently, but does anyone recognise and can go, yup, that's the sound of xxxxxxxxx dying in your car? Have put up a recording here; https://soundcloud.com/digstar/3sfe-engine-not-a-good-sound it it titled not a good sound, but I quite like the sound when it starts up intially!

Hi, sorry, never responded! Thanks, I am going for your plan, should last me

Nope, it's inside the tank, connects the new fuel pump wiring to old one, so will need to be resistant. Balls! I guess then its pull out and replace with resistive wrap... Least I know how to do it

Thanks for the advice guys, just bought some heat wrap and do it right

They were pretty ninja like in their camouflage