Bumblebee
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Posts posted by Bumblebee
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pretty impressive that particularly on S U carbs , 8500rpm , hells bells
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too much time on your hands Dave
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quaife sequential gearbox with lsd is on order , delivery hopefully end of January
Have also had a new exhaust manifold designed specifically for my car by Dave Traviss , should be here in 3 weeks hopefully ,
Gonna be busy in the new year
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last week I removed the gearbox in readiness for the arrival of the Quaife sequential next month
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25 minutes ago, Cleario said:
Buy a Type R
I hope that's an Integra type R DC5
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Its nearly that time of year again where people put their cars away for winter mods and upgrades
Whos got what plans ?
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Well done cracking result .
Amazing what a high you get from a win isn't it ? really gives you buzz and more motivation
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well yesterday
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i think I get it now , the part of the ball joint from the taper to the ball needs to be longer thereby making the distance between the hub and the ball ( pivot point ) greater ?
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6 hours ago, Dtracer said:
Ah sorry to be the bearer of that news didnt know you already had them. Its a simple set of kinematics, the macpherson strut is a pain for camber change in bump and steer especially on the celica, this poor design is excentuated when the cars are lowered. Ever wonder why Toyota wen to the trouble of making a completely different suspension design for the Sports-M? This is why.
I've just made a very very quick (and rough) explanatory drawing for you below. Apologies for the lack of effort, it makes sense to me so hopefully also does to you.
so the ball joint also needs to be moved out ,effectively making the wishbone longer ?
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2 hours ago, Dtracer said:
Haha, I see these things everywhere but the principle on which these spacers are based are next to useless used in isolation unfortunately. The are being sold as roll centre adjusters but all they really do is move the wishbone back to a more original position acheiving very little. It is the relative positions of the pivot points on both the inboard and outboard end in conjunciton with the wishbone angle that makes the difference, with these spacers the pivot point does not move, you need to physically move the outboard ball joint position AND the wishbone angle to change the roll centre. If you have one and not the other it doesnt do what it needs to. But you are correct, this is what I am looking to achieve with my 'pieces'.
I will bin mine then , not even fitted them yet
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Quote
https://www.gt4-play.co.uk/shop/front-roll-centre-adjuster?___SID=U
not what you were looking for Dave is it ?
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5 hours ago, Dtracer said:
So this picture illustrates what is wrong with the Celica front suspension kinematics, in bump & steer no matter what you do, you see positive camber gain, this is not a good thing, it rolls the tyre to its outside edge and you loose contact area.
Just nasty isn’t it, it pains me to see those pictures.
This issue is excentuated when the cars are lowered. Now without modifying the chassis hard points there’s not a who heap you can do but we can minimise it. But.... I have plans. It’s not a new idea by any means but I certainly can’t find anything on the market so I have designed some correction ball joint. Trick now is to find someone who can make them.
Dave , do you have a cad drawing ?
A friend of mine works for Honda Racing UK in Louth as a machinist making one off parts for the race bikes . I cant promise anything but f he is abe to make it im sure he will. Obviously 2 sets lol
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1 hour ago, Dtracer said:
The present Meister R setup runs 5 and 7 Kg springs, dont know what that is in old/proper money. The work prefectly for us although to acheive the best damping the fronts are set a 1 click from full hard and the rear 4 clicks from full hard, this make them sit somewhere around the critically damped point so not much need for more. Only issue is if something changes i.e track width, wheel width, weight etc. means we have no where to go. When I did the spring assessment I found that they were about spot on for a track car 2.02/2.53hz so not feeling a need to change. Going much stiffer may make the car faster but also harder to drive so its a compromise. Much stiffer and we are into requirement for a full slick also. It could probalble stand another 10% or so increase.
I am developing a front suspension 'piece' at the moment that should really make a differance. Will see if I can find anywhere to actually make them...
keep us posted
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5 hours ago, Dtracer said:
Short answer is no, as you are in first gear the push is huge with the magnification of the gear ratio. After that the car never sees 4000rpm. The redline is a very conservative at 8400rpm (9500rpm capable) which means we never drop below 6200rpm on a down change. We are considering pushing the redline up to 9000rpm later in the season.
have you got a fully built head to allow you so see 9000rpm ?
Also what oil pump are you using ? Standard pumps have been known to explode at high rpm
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3 hours ago, Dtracer said:
Just a way to share my own experiences and learnings. You never know it might be of interest to someone. I know I enjoy a recap of your build thread from time to time.
That's mainly why I started my build thread , so others could see what id done , where ive gone wrong , an alternative way of doing things and maybe inspire someone to do it themselves .
Its also good to have a read of some times to refresh my memory as to how far she has come and what work ive done on her .
Its almost time someone else took over the mantel of pushing the boundaries , I wont be able to go much further as I will be a pensioner in 4 years
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Nice write up.
Cant believe its the 1st time ive seen the post
Keep it up
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nice that Dave
Any idea why there is a slight dip on both torque and whp between 4000 rpm and 5150 rpm ? Not that it really matters on a track car as I doubt it sees revs that low very often .
What did you have the lift point set at ?
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1 hour ago, Dtracer said:
You are right. To be a true back to back it would need to run the stock ECU. I didn’t have time to play that way unfortunately. However... that comparison is coming. Lee is going to run the second manifold I made (for him) on the stock ECU so we will get that info. Regarding the 4500rpm dip, it’s true at present it does loose but we are still learning the Link ECU Andy how to get the best from it. I asked for them spend the time working from the cam switch point upwards as for me and asa race car apart from then start it never drops below 6000rom. We are confident that we can remove that dip entirely when we have some more time to play.
A run with the standard ECU will happen, as always will keep this thread alive as soon as we have some more star to share.
I wasnt knocking you , just pointing out to esthar city that its the only way to get a true comparison . As you know one slight change with an engine mod needs the map adjusting to get the most from it as was already done with the previous manifold
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You cant really compare by just changing it out as it needs tweeks to the map to get the best from it as was done with the previous manifold.
You would only get a fair comparison in that way if using a standard ecu.
Nice gains
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got a few jobs done over the last couple of days, new rear subframe fitted, Roll cage bolted in , new cover for the fuel cell , swirl pot and pumps fitted and today I made a plate u and fitted the AFR and oil pressure gauges along with the battery isolator buttons
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now that's impressive for just a manifold and a remap. much smoother graphs , improved Torque and if my estimation is correct about 20bhp at 5500rpm.
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in General Celica Discussion
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still waiting