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Interior electric’s conundrum!?!


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Import Gen 6 Beams

Since buying this car I have had no interior lights…no roof lights, no door marker lights and not even a door open light on the dash. The roof lights would work manually but not by opening a door.

I have just put some new Spree LED lights into the roof lights and now if you flick the selector over to door they come on, barely! Its like there is power getting to them but only just enough!?! :blink: As we all know LED’s only need a fraction of the power of a standard bulb. Again though they work fine at full brightness manually.

Next conundrum was that even with all the doors shut they did not turn off, but quickly tracked that to the rattling boot lid…the sensor on the mechanism is not being engaged at all, so the car obviously thinks the boot is open all the time. I wonder if this means I will find the dash light bulb missing altogether? :think:

Ok, got mum to sit in the car why I hold the boot sensor off with my finger. Mum switches the roof lights to door, nothing, that’s good. Then she opens driver’s door and on they come, but only just!

So the point is the system IS working, but not at full power. Thoughts? :please:

I’m thinking a fuse somewhere is not of a high enough voltage, but surely if that were the case the original bulb roof lights would not have worked manually either? Or are there seperate fuses for the manual operation of the lights and the door open system?

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I had a problem with my roof lights once. It turned out that condensation had corroded the terminals on the back of the lamp unit.

May be worth a look. 2 screws hold it in iirc.

Check the dome light fuse also. It may have half popped .

Edited by dazzy
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Cheers Dazz, will investigate. Can you point me in the direction of the ‘dome light fuse’?

Starting with the easy stuff, further investigation of the boot locks has revealed this…

Boot lock on the old ST.

2013_0609Bootlocks0001_zps4429121e.jpg

Boot lock on the Beams, note the massively longer spring!

2013_0609Bootlocks0002_zps3ac5eaac.jpg

With the result that when closed the hammer just dose not come over far enough to engage the sensor button.

2013_0609Bootlocks0003_zps0986c420.jpg

Presumably I can just swap the mechanism over from the ST to sort this part of the problem?

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Just swapped the lock mechanisms over and first thing that happened was I locked myself out of the boot! :lol: The cable between the lock barrel and the mechanism was now too long so would not release the lid. No matter, climb through the car to pop the lid and swap the cable with the ST. Was only about a cm different in length but thats all it takes at times ;)

So the boot now closes properly, activating the sensor, so that with all doors shut the roof, (and boot), lights are now off. Without going for a drive I also suspect this may have solved the rattling boot lid as it now has no discernible free movement when closed. Fingers crossed.

Going to get the clocks out next and I’m suspecting I will find the ‘door open’ light bulb has been removed, or burnt out, as it must have been on all the time.

Roof lights still only seem to be getting half power when you open a door, but one thing at a time!

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Right, who’s going to have a crack at this then…

Comparison of the rear of the clocks. Old ST at the top, the Beams clocks at the bottom. There’s so many differences that I never expected to see back hear! I thought the clocks were the same on all Gen 6's :blink:

Dashclockscomparison_zps896a4d3b.jpg

None of the bulbs appear blown, but there is a lot of muck along the lower edge of the circuit sheet, could this be causing any sort of bridging? Can it be cleaned in any way?

I was going to swap my red dash LED’s over but there only appears to be two of the larger illumination bulbs on these clocks. What lights the left-hand end, as you look at picture? Would it be those two smaller bulb holders that don’t appear to be sited behind any warning lamps?

Lastly I was going to fit a KPH-MPH converter to the back as I had been told that the existing unit had stopped working. But the existing unit is nowhere to be seen so I have no idea where to connect the new unit. If anyone has a set of clocks out with a unit attached that they can take a picture of that would be great.

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Cheers dublet but I've also got plenty of spare bulbs, a whole car full infact :lol: My biggest question is still why I only appear to have about half power going through the door open system??? Just enough to flicker the LED's into life but not enough to light any of the standard bulbs :blink:

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As dublet says. Check for voltage at the bulb terminals on the roof light. Sometimes knackered/cheap chinese led can still light up a bit

And is the new bulb rated for 12v and not 24v.

The beams clock use led I think in the red and blue bulb holder I think as standard.

I think the dome fuse controls the interior lights. Radio and clock.

I also had problems with the integration relay in the fuse box under the steering wheel. This controls most of the interior lights. It must be replaced with another with the same part number. It is a white or green box a couple inches in size.

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Situation update.

Located and changed the Dome fuse, no change.

Door lights however are now working. Took them out to check the bulbs and they weren’t connected up! Turns out the sensor on the passenger door does not work but I couldn’t care less about that at this stage. If I have a passenger then it’s a 90 percent chance I’ve already opened the drivers door before they open the passenger.

Changed the bulb for the 'door open' light on the dash but still nothing there. So I’m beginning to think that must either be a fault on the circuit sheet or in the wiring. Not really a major concern either way as long as the main lights themselves work.

Took the roof light unit down completely and I’m guessing this is exactly what you meant by corrosion on the terminals dazzy? :( Any idea which is likely to be at fault? As I say the lights work fine under manual control, but from the door open system only just.

2013_0609rooflight0004_zps8083ff77.jpg

Redtoy: I'd be very interested in a detailed 'how to' for that as the trip oddometer only runs to 9.9km and then gets stuck as well. So swapping the numbers unit in from the ST would solve two problems in one go :)

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No, the Beams is a non sunroof model. So it is a rather perplexing amount of corrosion, but then maybe this is not an original unit to begin with! May well be easier to source a replacement from one of the breakers, but nothing to loose in trying to get this one working proporley. Just need to know which bit to home in on like?

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Right description is remove thw dash unit then once the dash unit is out remove the 2 phillips screws for the clear front cover and unclip it all the way round and pull off then unclip the black surrond that separates the dials. Then on the back of the unit there are 4 small Phillips screws that attach the speedo unit to the dash and is also the contact point for the feeds in note that the screws do not come out thwy stay in place once all are undone wiggle the speedo unit away from dash unit put new unit in and reverse order.

After trying this on my own car being an import and swapping to uk speedo I can say that it will now count in miles as its determined by the speed of the motoe in the speedo rather than what its told so a dash in km the motoe that turns the numbers spins faster than the motor thats in miles hopes this makes sense if not pm me your number and I can talk you through the process.

Could u use the light unit out of your st??

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Mine wasn't an sr model either.

You would be amazed how damp the metal roof gets on the inside between the headlining.

Clean and re-grease the contacts or swap it out for a new unit.

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Redtoy, basically makes sense, but presumabley you need to remove the needle first? And is it just the rolling numbers that can be swapped or does it mean the face changes as well? The old ST had Black clocks and the Beams has White.

Oh and cant use the roof light from the ST as that was a sunroof model :rolleyes:

Dazzy, cleaned it up best I can tonight by scrapping as much as possible off with a micro screwdriver. Will reinstall tomoz and see if its any better.

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