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Posts posted by G.Lewarne
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Best screenwash ive ever used was some German stuff from lidl. It didnt freeze when mixed 50% in all the snow and ice and dreadfullness we had last winter. Even the jets didnt freeze.
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the key thing is they will all fit and work just fine - you just need to take into account that larger filter = larger oil fill
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cleaning out leaves and crap from inside airbox, dropped my air filter in a muddy puddle.
Drove to local parts place without air filter (AWESOME SOUND!), Bought new air filter. Fitted in car park. tightening screw on old factory intake hose clamp finally stripped. Went back in shop. Bought two large jubilee clips. Fitted new jubilee clips to both ends of main intake pipe. Drove home. Had coffee. Realised I left my in-car socket set in shop car park. Drove back to shop car park. Found Socket Set. Drove home. Had coffee.
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Buy Yuasa
Fit Yuasa
Forget about battery issues for years.
The only issue ive ever had with Yuasa batteries is that for whatever reason, their labels like to curl up at the edges. I glue them back down when it starts looking skanky
Amit - aren't Lion rebranded Varta ?
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New TPS sensor has much improved engine response. No more flat spot.
Result !
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Fitted new Throttle Position Sensor (Blueprint). I am 98% certain this particular Blueprint part is an OEM Toyota part - the sensors look identical to every detail including casing moulding marks, cap colour and fitment, even the colour of the screw inserts. Not bad for 50 quid . Also cleaned throttle body - well I say cleaned but in reality it was still spotless after its thorough disassembly and rebuild last year. Re set ECU, then set my idle speed screw again (new TPS sensor changed the idle somewhat), then reset the ECU again.
also vacuumed and cleaned the interior.
Now the engine is cold gonna go give it a blast for ECU adaptation, then its done - every single sensor of consequence is now new on my engine
- MAF
- CTS
- TPS
- Pre Lambda
- Post Lambda
- Cam Position
- Crank Position
- VVTi OCV
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investigated the slight flat spot I have had the past week at the exact same throttle position - not engine speed dependant.
Testing the resistance of the TPS as I rotate the throttle plate and there was a point where the resistance went WAY up and then all goofy.
Henceforth, a new ADL Blueprint one is on the way
Also replaced all my wipers with Bosch (standard), topped up the screenwash and thought about vacuuming the car, then didn't. Replaced all the rear light cluster bulbs because reasons, and finally got rid of the bird poop on the corner of the windscreen. Haven't washed the car in a while.
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2 hours ago, Kev 16v said:
Why do you need to carry tools in a Toyota?
Apart from things needed to change a wheel in the event of a puncture..torch, first aid kit, and waterproof jacket only.
I had my "situation" in my old Toyota MR2 - although they are reliable cars its important to remember - just how many bits of our cars are now aftermarket or old and have 150k+ miles on them?
The problem I faced in my incident was a massive pothole which literally bent a droplink- which made the back end sit all twisted and being a rear scary-drive MR2 I had to fix - because it was unsafe. All I wanted to do was just disconnect the droplink and ziptie it up out the way - was extremely difficult to do at 1am in the pouring rain with essentially no tools. Lesson learned - I now carry tools.
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jump leads, cheap 3/8th socket set with everything up to 19mm, cheap spanner set with 8 to 19mm, phillips and flat screwdrivers, pliers, Bluetooth code reader, zip ties, 2 spare coil packs, 1 of each "important" spare bulb, some fuses, WD40 type spray, jack, wheel nut brace, the alloy nut key adapters, 1 spare spark plug in a box, and a spare serpentine belt. It all fits inside the spare wheel so doesn't take any extra room.
Im good to go.
Of note, no self-respecting Toyota drivers goes anywhere without some zip ties.
Ive said this before - some may think this excessive. BUT - once you have been in a "stuck at the side of the road in rural wales at 1am in the pouring rain shouting MY KINGDOM FOR A 14mm SPANNER" situation you never want an experience that again to the best of your ability.
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and to throw confusion into the mix, since ive had mine its been run on nothing but 5w40 full synth all year round.
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standard dexron 3 or 4 stuff is what you want.
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Is that... a touch of "blueing" I see there on Deb's rear disc?
She must drive it hard
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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges
2) Top up reservoir with winter screen-wash
3) Grease Locks
4) Replace Wipers
5) Check Tyres, including the spare, for tread depth/nails & screws/pressure (which will drop as the temperature falls)
6) Lubricate Brake Slider Pins with silicon grease
7) lubricate wiper arm hinges with some light machine oil
and my new suggestion
8) disconnect battery, clean terminals and clamps, apply light smear of grease or Vaseline and reconnect
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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges
2) Top up reservoir with winter screen-wash
3) Grease Locks
4) Replace Wipers
5) Check Tyres for tread depth/nails & screws/pressure (which will drop as the temperature falls)
6) Lubricate Brake Slider Pins with silicon grease
and I shall add..
7) lubricate wiper arm hinges with some light machine oil
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On 17/09/2018 at 17:33, tree said:
Just adding my thoughts / info gathered from forums and the kind people here (please don't think in any way shape or forum I am writing this to correct any info above - I have to much respect for the knowledge here to do that)
Standard plug for 190 GT = SK20R11 - link to them on OPIE = https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-63035-denso-iridium-spark-plug-sk20r11-3297.aspx from what I have read they can last up to 60k ( I have just been buying them from Mr T)
Advice from here that I have bought - yet to be fitted = ik20tt link on OPIE = https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?w=DENSO Iridium TT Spark Plug - IK20TT - Single Plug x 4 £26.64 to be changed at least every 30
( I am a bit anal with my car and have always changed the oil before recommended interval and the plugs at the same time - waste of money in some peoples eyes but makes me think I'm looking after it.
From what I understand the IK20TT spark a bit more? giving better fuel economy and idle but lower life span
Although ill be the first to say that most spark plug "technologies", but not talking about the metals used, are probably marketing wank. However, I feel that Denso isn't really the sort of company that does that, and their own videos and theories on it do actually make some sense. A buddy of mine is a "hypermiler" and his forum buddies have done some testing and found a MPG improvement, even if marginal. As long as you get the correct heat grade and plug style, you really cant go wrong with a denso plug of any type tbh.
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2 hours ago, Cravo said:
The adjuster bolt needs turning about 20 times mate. Line it up against a wall or garage from 5-10 feet away and you will see it moving. It is awkward and slow.
it shouldn't be that far out with just a bulb change.
I did mine wrong the first time and I had one super high, reseated the bulb and back to normal
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bulb is in wonky. Its quite tricky to seat them correctly in the holder if you don't take the whole headlight out - but it is possible
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1 hour ago, SpaceCowboys83 said:
A mate in work mentioned something about this but I didnt quite catch what he was saying at the time as I got called away to a meeting, so whats this all about exactly?.
putting 10% bioethanol in petrol
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Not a done to, but a done with....
Used my 7 to jump start our generator for our 500 attendee Outdoor Cinema event in the estate of a stately home. Terrible movie (greatest showman), but the 480 ladies attending loved it. Pretty much maxed out our enormous soundsystem and gained some temporary deafness.
Awesome night. wouldn't have happened if I didn't have my jump leads and a willing battery
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Replaced smashed up rear light custer with replacement from AMS, and properly secured fuel tank exhaust heat shield with proper machine screws and washers in prep for today's MOT.
Heat shields are a thing for the MOT now, so check yours. Its only the "Fire Risk" ones such as manifold, cat and fuel tank shields.
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You can get clear coat VHT
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Not jacked up, but is heavily angled with the front essentially uphill (for the very reason of getting out as much as possible)
I do take the angle into account when refilling and leave it at just under max
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16 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Amit, why does the amount of engine oil refill needed differ so much on 140s?
Gavin and i both have a 2004 Gen7 140,
we both use a good make of filter;
but Gavin's 140 needs 4.5L, and mine only 3.7L.
I'm thinking the answer maybe differing versions [capacities] of oil sump pans... (?) but i dunno.
Debs
maybe its because I prefer to do a cold drain - its sat overnight or for hours and hours so everything than can drain down to the sump has slowly got there, and I leave it draining for at least an hour to get every last drop out
Which power steering fluid?
in Consumable Parts
Posted
I bought 2 litres, but wish I had bought 3
What comes out will be really really nasty and a good flush is needed to really get it all out. 2 litres was barely enough.