Crazy Cat Lady
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Posts posted by Crazy Cat Lady
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Mission compete!
Osram Ultra for low beam both sides
It would be good if one could see clearly how that clip was secured in, it would be a doddle.
Funny thing tho', i found the passenger side a lot easier to do cos the clip is around the other way so i can see it more clearly.
Drivers side took me 45 minutes and passenger side 10 minutes. Playing with the cats 15 minutes.
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I'll fit the mtek high beam super whites when they arrive here sometime next week
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34 minutes ago, maizey said:
Not intending to sexist with this comment but a female with small hands and slender fingers would probabley replace this bulb with minimum fuss and wonder what all the fuss was about
Probably made for Japanese people with small hands don't ya think?
However, from what i can see, the holder clip on the finger lever bit is oddly secured in place, i can't move it so it ain't budging.
Whatever needs to be done with that clip my fingers are no where near strong enough.
Trying to flip it out with a screwdriver but no go, it's beginning to look a bit mangled now. 30 minutes later and i'm getting nowhere
Edit
Here's a expert on the passenger side, this does make it look clearer
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10 hours ago, maizey said:
and are still a PITA to fit
Looks easy in the vid, can't wait to rush out there and get started, i've even got a ginger cat to help out too!
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1 hour ago, bazz54 said:
wonder how the claim "65W seen as 130W" stacks up with the physicists?
At the price i'm not too concerned about pretentious technical specification claims...
as long as the 4,350 kelvins can vaporise jaywalking vampires i'll be happy
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Just ordered a pair of 9005 for the high beams:
£7.60 with free postage is worth a punt!
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5 hours ago, Akuma77 said:
yeah the main beams are 65w but kick out 143w ..i defo recommend the mtecs as they d are very legal and safe too no extra relays etc needed
That sounds really good, i wonder whether the pay-off is generated extra heat which shortens bulb life expectancy (?) ...but i'm okay to accept the risk of that with the main beams. Where's a good place to buy from?
This is the sort of main beams i'd really like
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As far as low beams are concerned, i'm fine to go with good quality standard 55w and like the idea of reliability and longevity.
TBH these days i'm getting more than a little cynical about why people upgrade the low beams, seems like a consumer lighting arms race of trying to out shine each other, probably why there is so much oncoming car dazzle these days and not to mention the tail gate dazzler, some of whom impersonate an emergency vehicle with blue flashiness
However, i maybe game to upgrade the main beams, can't see any harm in that. Is the Gen 7 a HB3 type?
Recommendations would be welcome here, as long as they're UK legal.
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Has anyone tried and tested these?
I like the 4 year guarantee claim!
On eBay [ mr-wiper ] for £11.40
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Or a bit cheaper on Amazon £5.09 each + free 'Prime' UK delivery [ Or need to spend more than 20 quid and get free delivery ]
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If the problem yours has is anything like my A/C problem, then it could be an old bashed up and leaking condenser that seen better days.
They sit right in-front of the cooling system radiator where they can get knocked about by stones and debris from under the spoiler.
I'm not positively sure this is the [only] problem on mine, but last year i had mine re-gassed [ and all done properly ] but only to find the A/C lasted a nice couple of months but then didn't. The compressor seems to work fine but the coolant is leaking out somewhere.
I'm willing to gamble it's the condenser on mine and will soon be changing it for a new one.
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On 16/04/2019 at 17:25, tree said:
Id like to try ferrodo discs and pads on
I have the 295mm Avensis upgrade on the front.
Where do you guys ferrodo from - didnt see that name mentioned on freaky parts
I dont have a reg for an avensis to use so will me navigating by a 2004 T25 avensis 295mm 5x100
Thanks
For the past couple of years i've had an Avensis Ferodo front disc eBay listing below in my watch list.
Please don't take my word that it's the correct fit for our Avensis upgrade to Celica hub, it needs confirmation from the mechanical experts here!
It's also the eBay dealer 'Autosessive' [ based in Chester ] that is mentioned in above post by maizey ^
I believe the criteria in question is the stud hole patten. Please can someone confirm...?
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2 hours ago, Master flex said:
I wonder what they coat it in.
The only coating we could tell is the oily film that gets wiped off with the brake cleaner
I dunno if the gold and black colour coatings are any different [ i suspect not ]
It's probably the case all discs rust cos they be made of steel, so we may as well paint some protection on, only aesthetically pleasing but nice to keep things smart and tidy.
Which make of discs did you buy ?
Next time i need discs i'll probably buy Ferodo, i rather like their pads.
They will probably rust just the same but the price is good value for money.
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2 hours ago, Master flex said:
I opted away from the M-Tecs...
I had M-Tecs fitted four years ago, no squeals but the special rust prevention silver colour coating is a debatable joke;
48 hours from fitting they started rusting with the first drop of rain.
Painting the hub parts before fitting is a very good idea, painting them after-fitting is a lot more faff.
IMO Rose gold is the best colour - well chosen!
Photo from July 2015
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It's a shame we need to cart around a spare wheel - that really does weigh heavy.
A lightweight get-me-home spare wheel maybe all we need (?)
The last time i punctured and had to put the spare on was 1988
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5 hours ago, Master flex said:
Removed the old whip antenna and put a little stinger on. After spraying it gold, of course.
IMO it looks an improvement over the old swishy whip aerial, but when i [ briefly ] tried it the reception became a lot worse
I suppose it could depend upon where you live, and if your tuner and aerial are digital (?)
Is that the gas mens van across the road - by any chance?
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Went to see my mechanic mate who kindly let me use his ramp for a little while.
Under the car i found the cause of a sharp clattery bang type noise every time i drove over a bump;
Relieved to find nothing serious - just a couple of popper studs missing from front-nearside wheel arch inner trim - so replaced.
Also noticed the rear fixings of the silencer exhaust shield had worn though so that was clanging too, so secured it firmly on with zip ties from the [worn too enlarged] heat shield holes to wrap a hold around rear sub-frame, bit of a bodge but a nicely done bodge and all noises gone now
A shampoo and polish later back at home, and some tyre dressing.
It got a bit too dark by then to take a photo but believe me it looks cute
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2 hours ago, Master flex said:
I appreciate that, crazy. I have gone for some hammerite on to metal aerosol for the finish.
Somehow have full confidence your paint job will be fine, Master Flex!
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11 hours ago, Master flex said:
Once I have painted the subframe yellow it's good to go.
Hopefully your yellow paint will be flex-resistant.
Others have reported and i can confirm, the rear subframes flex and which in time cracks the paint finish.
It's probably what causes the rust to get a start in the first place [ and start again if reconditioned ]
I'm not sure which paint to recommend.
My rear subframe was thoroughly bead blasted, primed and powder coated, but paint cracks have appeared [at the tension bar mount area]
It's not so bad it can't be treated in situ, but will need addressing some time soon to keep it rust free.
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On 18/02/2019 at 18:36, Master flex said:
Based in Manchester but I'm open to travelling. I know Crazy used Lee Dent Autos (I remember this discussion on my last one) would be curious to know prices at least
IIRC Lee charges £35 an hour, i think the labour charge i paid was around £120
When we changed the rear subframe we took the opportunity for a bit of de-rusting underside, and painting, plus application of some dinitrol.
But we took our time [ waiting for paint to dry ] so time it took was longer than a straight forward subframe change.
If traveling you need to have all your ducks in a line, new or reconditioned subframe, camber bolts, trailing arm all ready to go on for the swop-over.
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2 hours ago, Tomb said:
Not what I was expecting to find when checking my rear callipers
Look on the bright side;
it will be good after getting them changed and you feel how much better the brakes are
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20 hours ago, ams said:
but usually its the unmodified ones that fetch top money
Assuming you pay £500 a year for barn storage, still cant see you recouping the storage costs in 10 years. Gen4s can still be picked up for a few grand.
Yes, i suppose owning ones own barn or safe indoor garage/warehouse is a requisite for free rent, and i agree this most probably not a resource many of us have.
But there must be loads of people who used to own a Gen 1 lift back and really wish they'd kept it...
Mind you if we all kept stuff for future investment potential the supply with eventually outstrip demand, so the value wouldn't rise...
and i am sceptical if the days of nostalgic value cars will be over with the impending 'electric' car future.
Maybe too many ecological legislation hurdles coming our way too.
It's plausible that no later day Gen Celica will every be worth the big bucks in 10 or 20 years time (?)
But you never know
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Gen 7s values are enduring the undistinguished age of being too young to be classic, and too old to be hip
An alternative strategy is not sell if a reasonable resale value ain't there.
Mothball Moo into barn storage somewhere safe, under a dust sheet with battery removed etc...
Revisit in a decade from now - Gen 7s will be far rarer, more interesting, desirable, and most probably far more valuable.
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Interesting information, i learnt something there, thanks for sharing
I guess it's akin to the Yamaha three tuning folks logo - with it's link to musical instruments
and to represent the three pillars of their business; technology, production, and sales
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On 24/11/2018 at 19:13, slybunda said:
Also wont a 005 battery fit a facelift? 005 is bigger than a 053. Bigger is better.
Apparently the shrunken size of many newer batteries is caused by ecological reasoning.
All very well but a smaller size battery will need spacers to fit it in the space intended for an original larger size battery.
I would much rather have a battery that fits the space available.
My battery, replaced by previous owner, states 45 amps.
It works okay but can be a slow lazy starter, which makes me worry because these modern batteries have a habit of suddenly failing with very little warning, and especially in a cold winter.
Does anyone know if 45 amps is correct for my Gen7 ?
Debs
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3 hours ago, CheltGirl said:
...a little note inside to say my leads were handmade by Carol
Girl Power!
Pre Winter Checks
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
The advise on this thread is very good, most winter checks/service nicely covered already.
But just to reiterate a good one from earlier, a good time to check brake pad wear, pull out the calliper slider pins and clean and re-lube with fresh silicone brake grease.
The annual oil/filter change service & MOT is due on my G7 in early November, so half way though October we do a pre MOT check combined with winter preparation. The oily rag gives the suspension parts [and other parts] a wipe over and this followed by a waxy preservative spray, okay not guaranteed to last out the entire winter but far better than doing nuffin'.
Another often forgotten about but very easy and inexpensive check/replace is the cabin interior air filter,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Borg-Beck-Cabin-Pollen-Interior-Air-Filter-BFC1023/192213009589
a nice clean cabin filter will help keep the windscreen from fogging up