Crazy Cat Lady
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Posts posted by Crazy Cat Lady
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Removed the plastic sill covers to inspect the underlying metalwork:
Looked a little mucky but not as bad as feared...
After a jolly good clean up the sills expose a remarkably fresh appearance, just some surface rust blemishes along that weld-lip that hangs down.
Dinitrol tin worm killer is sprayed at high pressure into the box sections of the sills, and into both front and rear sub-frames.
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Just an update:
My car milage has been very low over the summer but after a couple of hundred miles of bedding in, the new Ferodo brake pads are producing excellent results, very noticeably better than how the Mintex pads ever were, even when they were new.
Also, i had both FSL type [supposedly Ferodo cheapo version] and also the OEM type Ferodo FDB, at the time of fitting leaving the decision of which type to fit up to my trusty mechanic, and he put the FSL type ones on, and even tho' this is the 'lesser' type Ferodo pad i'm still very confident these are a nice improvement with more grip and nice easy predictable stopping power over the Mintex
Debs
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2 hours ago, slybunda said:
Ferodo fdb pads better or worse than pagids from eurocarparts?
I've only had the Ferodo front pads fitted 3 weeks ago, they replaced Mintex which i found excellent enough albeit a bit black dusty on the wheel rims.
We took the recent opportunity to change the pads while changing the front wheel hubs [ had a warped 'donor' flange that came with a donor front sub-frame ]. The difference of having my original refurbished wheel hubs back on is a welcome improvement, and TBH i'd forgot about the new Ferodo pads, the braking feel and performance is very similar to the Mintex, although having said that since fitting i've not conducted an emergency stop / brake test yet. However, my present assessment is that the Ferodo pads are excellent, predictable safe braking, and good value for money.
Debs
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Sorry to going off topic but I'm not enabled to edit my posts, or post a photo [ URL using photo bucket ]
If i try loading a photo it fails with removal from the topic thread - and to end up back in the main 'Forums' menu....
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On 8/15/2017 at 07:23, ESTHAR_CITY said:
Worked fine for me...
I'll try an edit again - testing testing; won too free
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I have SGS struts which raise my spoiler & tailgate unassisted.
I expect the same struts on a non spoiler gate could give one an under the chin knock-out blow...
which would make a change from getting conked on the back of the head after using droopy knackered struts.
I've purchased a few things from SGS, their stuff is good for the job and fine for the price IMO, but be warned they use an awful delivery company who operate with the habit off delivering the stuff when they feel like it. Last time i stayed in all day waiting for a specified Monday delivery - only to see the courier had not bothered to come, and even listed the non-delivery as customer not at home
Happens quite often with them apparently.
Debs
Unable to edit:
I'm only able to make a pointless reason for edit but not able to actually edit - wot's going on?
make a change - not make a chance
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1 hour ago, G.Lewarne said:
not really, almost the entire length of the intake is in the plastic manifold....
Hold on Tiger!
now i realise how it could take you only half an hour!
i didn't read your post right about it being the inlet manifold
Sorry i didn't make it clear but my reply refers to the exhaust manifold
I think cleaning/polishing out the internal exhaust manifold would make a nice difference - but maybe subject matter for another time/day perhaps!
See the youtube vid - quite interesting imo
Anyway, where did i put my reading glasses...?
Debs
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12 hours ago, G.Lewarne said:
Replaced my intake manifold gasket. When I was doing my throttle body work the other week I noticed some oily grime around the intake runners for number 1 and 4 cylinders. Got a new OEM gasket from Mr T. On removal my old gasket was brittle hard, flattened, and there was oily traces all over the manifold mating area.
Good clean up and refit, overall only took 30 mins.
Result: engine quieter, smoother and improved throttle response. Tentative MPG improvement as well, but will need to drive more to confirm.
Sounds like a good result
Do you think doing an internal manifold polish [using a Flex-Hone perhaps] would achieve any improvements?
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1 hour ago, daytona said:
Interesting. Mine has always had an almost imperceptible hesitation on pulling away. New plugs improved it a bit. Never so noticeable as to be worth hours of labour costs to try and find the issue. if it even is an issue.
May give a new sensor a try depending on price.
My trusty mechanic guy says it's typical of the model to have some pull away hesitation or stalling, and most likely cause is dirty or worn throttle-body. We've cleaned the throttle-body, checked for leaky rubber pipework, cleaned the MAF, changed the plugs, TLC etc, and nothing has changed the unpredictable nature of the sudden pull-away conk-out syndrome. It only happens occasionally [one in every five pull-aways?] but annoying when it does.
I've gotten used to giving the accelerator pedal a little blip [from 800rpm tick-over - up to around 1200rpm] before pulling away each and every time now, that seems to prevent the chance of a sudden conk-out.
If the fitting of a brand new OEM grade Denso manufactured MAF sensor is the cure for this...? ...then i want one!
Interested in a group buy if it happens
Debs
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Yesterday:
Air/Con de-gas - leakage check - recharge £48.00 + VAT
The guy that did it noticed a slight oil mark on one of the valve caps, so he changed both the valves [for free]. He's a good guy.
Seems to be working fine now, i no longer need to strip naked and towel dry after every drive in heatwave daytime [sorry no photos].
Just hoping the Air/Con recharge will hold and the super cool cool coolness will continue for a few years to come.
I find that the air con is essential other times of the year too, especially when condensation is on inside of windows - clears it off very quickly.
Would hate the air con to pack up completely - one of those faff thing jobs i don't like to get into...
Debs
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56 minutes ago, maizey said:
Just seen this . . .
Crikey they've gone up in price
, 22 months ago I paid £18.50 for the fronts and £14.50 for the rears with free p&p.
I will buy them again though . . . . when the time comes . . . as they are excellent pads and don't cover your nice summer wheels in horrible black dust, in fact they are a very "clean" pad
I expect the price hike is due to Brexit Tax on imported products & devaluation of the £
Still very affordable at £28, and considering how much some of the fancy brakes pads cost.
£18.50 was a bargain
Debs
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More Ferodo / Avensis brake pad analysis:
FDB above / FSL below
FSL pads about 130mm in length / weight of 1 pad = 465gm
FDB pads about 128mm in length / weight of 1 pad - 470gm
The pads differ slightly in chamfered edge shape and general texture of the pad - SL pad material feels a bit smother, and lighter colour.
The FDB type are £28 [and free delivery] from Mister-Auto on eBay.
They cost £28.44 to buy directly from Mister-Auto plus £4.96 deliver change - unless one spends over £50
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Although i can afford to buy a 86 i'm not willing to accept the couple of grand or so a year depreciation costs.
And from a practical standpoint the 86 looks a bit lacking in rear cargo space.
But the GT86 is far nicer looking car than the Gen 7, and it's RWD too, which i find awfully tempting....
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An option is to ask them for a money back discount if you agree to accept the tyres they've put on.
Sometimes brand new tyres can feel a bit weird for the first couple of hundred miles before getting properly scrubbed in.
Or if that don't help swop them over to the rears to see if that stops the tramlining issue.
After that i guess it's back to the 4 wheel alignment guy....
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The Ferodo email reply [above] does state they are 'aftermarket' which is a bit ambiguous [ i mean they could be made in China for all we know ] and the reply also stated a lower price. I should have bought the FDB type - especially as they cost a bit less too - which is odd in itself.
Toying with the idea of sending them back for he real deal...
Avensis FDB Premiers for £28.44 is a bargain [over 50 quid on eBay]
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A close up look at the Ferodo FSL front pads i ordered from Mister Auto, and arrived today:
This SL version is £30.22
They also have the FDB version for £28.44
I'm still a bit puzzled if there's a performance difference between the versions, and if the FDB version is better why it costs less...?
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30 quid for front brake pad set, 20 quid for rears, and free postage - from Mister Auto : )
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Interesting...
Mister Auto priced the FSL version 2 quid more expensive than the FDB - so dumbo me though they be better
I sent an email to Ferodo asking wot the difference is, and nice kind Ferodo man responded with reply below:
QuoteDear Deborah
The difference between the FDB range and the FSL range
FDB is our Premier product range which is an exacting match to original equipment (OE) specification. This means OE level stopping performance, water recovery, pedal feel etc. and the same noise control and comfort features that would be found on the original factory fitted part. The pads are also supplied with the same fitting accessories that would be found from the vehicle main dealer. Finally, Premier parts offer the best service life available.
FSL is our 'Aftermarket' range. This is still great braking performance but without the frills and hence at a lower price point. With FSL you can expect a standardised noise control and safety-critical fitting accessories.
Kind Regards
Martin
Martin Wardle
Technical Services /Warranty Supervisor
Federal-Mogul Motorparts
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I've very recently purchased a front pad set of Ferodo FSL 1648 [Avensis T25]
and a rear pad set of Ferodo FBL 1395 [Celica T23]
£50.50 for fronts and rears and to include the [free] postage [if you spend over 50 quid] from Mister-Auto
I can't report what they're like yet, and it maybe a while before they get fitted.
But in my misspent yoof motorbiking days [ about 100 years ago ] Ferodo brake pads were a life saver!
Also, i noticed after buying them that both front and rear Ferodo brake pads are available as FSL or FBL -
and i'm not actually sure why there are two types or how they differ (?)
Debs
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The slider pins need proper silicone brake grease.
Any other type may have detrimental effect on the rubber seals causing break down and let dirt in.
and/or get baked-on due to the very high temperature leaving a black cooked on mess which prevents the pins from sliding which is probably one of the main reasons why people have so many pin sticking issues.
Copper slip is good on the clips that hold the pad edges, and on rear of pads.
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11 hours ago, EasyRight89 said:
I always feel a bit sorry for the 86, gets so much grief and seems people have COMPLETELY missed the point as to what it's about. It's a nod back to the old 86 from the 80s, low power but amazing balance/handing and super fun to drive. The handling is on another level to the Gen 7.
The 86 refers to the 86mm bore, and 86mm stroke of the Subaru's horizontally opposed boxer engine design.
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My previous car; a year 2000 diesel Corolla [with 1.9D cough Peugeot derivative engine cough] always seemed noticeable better on Shell V-Power diesel, even though used occasionally, just 2 or 3 times a year. Oddly, every time i drove on V-Power diesel the MPG went down from around 50mpg to around 45mpg.
In those days i believed the blurb about engine cleaning additives, which is what interested me about V-Power diesel, so i only deemed it necessary for an occasion treat.
The Celica Gen7 owner's manual states we need RON95 or higher, so we may fill up with the most basic ordinary slop going at the pumps if we choose.
For about a six month period i used Shell V-Power, but had to go out of my way a bit to the nearest Shell station, and the Tesco pump became too convenient to drive past. Anyway, defecting from V-Power to Tesco Momentum wasn't just convenient but completely painless, fortunately no noticeable difference in either performance or MPG, and i nearly always check the MPG after every fill, tend to let the tank get down to the last segment on the gauge, and fill her up 'till the pump clicks off. Seems to be a consistent 40mpg average, a few mpg less in winter, a few more on long journeys.
Debs
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On 4/2/2015 at 23:15, s13louis said:
Thanks for the sound advice guys!
Just to clarify the ONLY reason I went to Mr T is the car has FTSH and I want to keep it that way for resale value.
Do any of you have the part number to hand for the NGK Iridiums? Is it BKR6EIX-11?
Are any of you using any coil / lead upgrades at all? I cant stress how much of a difference the Splitfires made to the RB25 engine!
I expect there are Toyota service garages around that are okay, but the experience i've had with a couple of Toyota garages who were so completely appalling at doing the slightly thing right on my old Corolla and Corina, i could wax lyrical but i'm in recovery with PTSD [ Post Toyota Service Detriments ]
My advice is to find a local friendly independent Garage who specialises in Toyota, or Japanese cars.
The commitment with FTSH maybe very worthwhile for retaining extra resell value on a cars a few years old,
but a Gen7 Celica well over a decade old i'd think every £1 in extra resale price will have cost you an over £10 in extra trumped up Toyota service charges.
Debs
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The '50' is the height, makes them sit up a bit taller than the standard '45' so will feel more comfy, the speedo will read slightly less MPH but nothing to worry about, however the 225 width maybe okay doable with standard 45s but probably not with '50' height.
For Goodyear F1s it's the 215/45/17 size that you need.
Also, it's a good idea to have the same sizes on front & rear.
Avensis brake pads
in Consumable Parts
Posted
IMO it is well worth doing. especially when the discs are worn and need replacing and the callipers have seen better days, if one has the need and expense of replacing discs/pads/callipers anyway then may as well upgrade the rusty old 275mm disc size to shiny new Avensis 295mm.
It's not a massive improvement but it is noticeable better and definitely safer being basically the same Bosch calliper set up but bigger and more powerful.
The general reliability are more or less exactly the same - especially with the occasional characteristic sticky pin bother, nothing a little TLC and some silicone brake grease won't fix.