cooperman
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Posts posted by cooperman
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i think if you could put a rough price down then you may get some people interested.
i will keep you in mind for work though. can you do batch stuff? and small batch stuff.
small springs like throttle spring?
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dont toyota own a large part of subaru now like 50% as they were going under until toyota came to save them? lol
plus i wouldnt even bother racing them just wait untill they have near on 50k miles on the clock and just laugh as there shit engine made of chocolate goes pop and he has a bill for £2.5k for a replacement.
friend of mine had a pink badge JDM version (surpose to be special???) with about 80k miles on the clock and the only thing that he hadnt have change was the turbo. had a new gear box, 3 engines and most of the running gear had broken in that time. he got so pissed off that it had cost him about £24k in 4 years that he then sold it and bought a gen 4 celica well he looked round for a BMW M3.
at the end of the day there big and there not clever, the engine is to highly strung and will go wrong with big bills way before your celica does so dont worry about it.
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M6 = 6mm hole
M7 = 7mm hole etc...
does that answer your question?
have to say you are wrong on that one.
M6 will be 5mm hole size
M7 will be 6mm hole size
this is not a equal for all, as M10 is 8.5mm and M5 is 4.2mm. (all sizes are approx.)
M7 does equal a 7mm bolt diameter though.
just so people know.
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ok well with what has been said i think i will just goe for it then. any thing that is not important i will change up.
thanks guys.
andy
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thanks for the info so far guys. keep it coming.
have read up on galling already and it sounds like a ball ache.
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so does any body know if on my engine build can i use stainless bolts on most things?
now i know for things that dont matter like the rocker cover and things like that its ok. but what about things like the water pump housing? oil pump housing, sump pan. even things like mounting brackets?
also well im at it stainless steel has a Coefficient Of Friction just over twice that of mild steel so do people use two times the torque on there stainless bolts?
i can get hold of some thing like A2 70 stainless steel bolts that have strenths amlost the same as the listed toyota 4T class. im sure i should be able to match up the rest of them well im there as well. like the high tensile bolts there should be a stainless alternative.
any body have any views on this? is there any thing i have missed?
thanks
andy
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some thing to do with whats called driving lights. i havent seen the paper work but i believe if they are white they can be classed as driving lights. all new cars now come with broken lights that are on all the time day or night and its some thing to do with that.
andy
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there is little you will get out of the head i think. a general port match and deburr is as good as it gets. from what i have seen of the head design so far they have got it as close to perfect as you can with in the limits the casting gives.
if the head/engine is good then all you need to do is look at thinner head gaskets. if the rev 3 is the same the standard gasket is 1.2mm and you can get 1mm, 0.8mm and 0.6mm gaskets. this should be enough to change the compresion with in useable limits.
standard tools need really. i havent used any thing special as of yet and i only have the sump and crank left to take out.
components to change. water pump, oil pump, cam belt, tensioner and idler, get an engine gasket kit and that will give you all the seals and gaskets you need to change.
pistons should be ok so shouldnt need changing. fensport should be a good place to start for parts and you will get discount as your doing the TSS. if not the good old fleabay for parts.
apart from that its all straigtht forward. rev2 and rev3 are very similar so RP's or my threads should help out.
oh and try and get hold of one of these but for the rev3 3sge http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Carina-Celica-Camry-Engine-Repair-Manual-/190591090092?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item2c601d3dac they come up for sale every now and then and have every thing you will ever need in there. its just nice having a hard copy you can just flick through in the workshop.
andy
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handling first. coilovers done. brakes upgrade done. strut braces done. oh and i have 4ws so corners are fun.
power second. high lift hks cams and after market piggy back ecu to use them along with engine rebuild.
should be the only way.
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so are you changing the caliper and the pads?
sign up to this website and you can then put the reg number in.
this is the same way your local auto parts places will do it.
then you will get a very good price and the right parts, normally with in a few (working) days.
plus its free to sign up.
they do calipers as well but lots of money.
andy
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think biggy on here was doing it at some point. dont no if he is still doing it. would say that he maybe your best bet??
andy
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for normal use there is no benefits really. but they look good and cant hurt to put one in.
as for witch pipe. follow them and see witch one goes back to the intake. cant see in the pics.
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there should only be one coming out of the rocker cover. it then goes in to the intake system some where. thats the one you are looking for.
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yes 20mins, job done.
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sounds like you need to work a little slower and get a good even cover on it. last time i did a satin rattle can job it did take about 5-6 layers to cover a blue vw caddy consistantly.
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if you have a white wind screen will it not be hard to drive though?
could look ok if done well.
andy
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so ita you are trying to say you have a gt4 look-a-like?
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just looking for one for you this is all i have found at the moment.
well it was being sprayed.
or this one.
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even better ones.
the ad pictures of the car.
and as close to now as your going to get.
you can see the number plate in both of these just to proove to the non believers
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as close as i can get on this computer.
the start-ish
and now-ish
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think i might be ita.
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i know we have at least one but cant remember his forum name right now.
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thanks for the reply guys i have passed the info on this weekend and told him that there is more info to come back so when you have it let me know.
wrc itold him about you and that you are a trust corp members you will prob get a call from him soon.
thanks again guys.
andy
Mr.Bishi's Celica - Need your help if possible - please.
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
i remember reading the thread of all the work that went in to the car. now its difficult to put a price on it as there was alot of mods on the car that just cant be replaced. the link given to BOB's car is a good start. mods on a car doesnt always add value to a car at the end of the day. but i would deffinatly be looking for 7.5k as a min price.
i think the best thing maybe to do is look at other classic cars modded to the same standard and offer these up as a comparison.
maybe like this standard good car,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-100E-POPULAR-DELUXE-CLASSIC-CAR-WEDDINGS-SHOWS-/290635079140?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item43ab335de4
then this as a modded version,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1959-FORD-POPULAR-100E-HOTROD-TURBO-MUST-SEE-/250936425456?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3a6cf9fbf0
you can then say that if bobs was 7.5k then you should be looking for 9.5k and then some.
dont think you will find any thing out there to compare to so a comparison is as close as you might get.
sorry i cant be more help.
andy
here's bob sale on ebay as well.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330626161858?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fcsc%2Fi.html%3F_nkw%3D330626161858%2B%26_sacat%3D29751%26_dmpt%3DAutomobiles_UK%26LH_Complete%3D1%26_odkw%3Dcelica%26_osacat%3D29751%26_trksid%3Dp3286.c0.m270.l1313%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1