Jump to content

cooperman

Forum Moderator
  • Posts

    3,333
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by cooperman

  1. well in that case then if you have done all the above then the only thing i can think of is.

    the lambda, if it has 2 work together. the first being before the cat and the second being after the cat. if you have change one/pre cat, this only measures whats going in to the cat and then compares to what comes out via the post cat lambda. if the pre cat one is the one you changed then this is the one that measures the dirty exhaust gases the post cat one measures the clean exhaust gases. if the post cat one if fubar then it could think that the cat is working more efficient than it is and adding more fuel. (only adding more fuel because thats what toyota love to do, as its safer on the engine lifespan).

    other thing to consider are things like service parts. if the spark plugs for example are not working right (old) or not gaped right then it will not be burning the fuel properly/fully.

  2. if there are no holes in the exhaust system and your obd is not showing errors then its all about trial and error.

    parts to check/replace are:

    lambda sensor/s

    cat

    maf

    not looked at the gen 7 workshop manual but there many be a way of testing the lambda sensor, like on older cars it give you a measurement you can get with a multi meter. if not in limits it needs changing.

    cat there is no way of testing as such and is just a replace if nothing else helps.

    maf im sure there is a way of testing this as well like the lambda. and generally its just a matter of cleaning this out properly.

    nothing is easy here and having a garage test/inspect these things could end up costing you more than just biting the bullet and getting lambda and cat changed. maf like said is just a clean job and im sure there are guides in the gen 7 bit.

    hope that helps

    andy

  3. there was a gen 5 gt4 light weight version. think it was only an import thing, JDM only option. have only ever heard of 2 in the uk and know one of them was scrapped. dont know what happened to the other. dont no what the designation for it was but it was a narrow body, no sun roof, manual windows, steel wheels and a few other things you only got on this one model.

    i have a JDM only st183 hard top. it has manual gearbox, 4ws, a sun roof and super live sound system when it came out the factory. not come across allot of these in this spec level. most are auto's or verts or have no sun roof but are still rare in them selves.

    also the cs/rc gt4 that was/is about (think owned goldspeed?? or something like that) that had factory spec paint in a gold colour. believe this is the only one in that colour (maybe in the world) and the vin plate to go with it. now thats rare.

    thats all i can think of at the moment.

  4. i have a viper 480xv with added proximity on it. think you will be looking at around £300-350 with proximity fitted. very good alarm and it a 2 way system. so as long as you are with in a half mile radius of the car your alarm fob will beep as well as the car.

    but any thing (almost) made by directed electronics can have one fitted as an extra.

  5. this should be easy enough to do. i have done it before but was a million years ago now. down by the drives kick panel is all the wires you need. think i just whipped the door card off and traced the wires through. there is also enough room to mount said remote locking box just under the dash there as well. i think i had a nightmare to get the indicators to flash as well though. ended up using a simple 2 in 2 out relay to get it to work on the back of the hazard switch. you dont have to run wires to both doors though. just the drivers will do as that will automatically open the passengers anyway.

    i have gone over to a cat1 alarm now but if i get a chance i will look and see where the wire for that go and it should be the same. might be able to get a picture for you.

    andy

  6. as far as i know there is only 2 ways around it. to get full OBD2 out of it and thats,

    1 buy a new car.

    2. change the loom, ecu and engine for a new obd2 engine setup.

    you have to think of EOBD as being an old analoge signal and the new OBD2 as being a new digital signal. even though alot of tester will read the old EOBD signal it will not be as detailed as the new OBD2 signal.

  7. i say chase it up or it will come back and bite you in the ass. my thoughts are if you dont chase it they will reinstate the fine and not contact you untill its to late and you will have to pay double.

    for the test do they have to take a reading of ambient noise and then deduct that from the final number? i always thought that taking a noise reading from a source out side a sound controlled room was impossible and at best all you could do was get a rough guesstimate out side of controled conditions. this is why they stopped it from being part of the MOT as they couldnt guarantee the results.

    on another note im glad that we have solved all the murders and robberies in the country to free up the police for this sort of thing. well done the constabulary. :thumbs: good job.

  8. there is always the option to use a standard 4 channel amp and make sure the one you buy has high level imputs on it. this way you dont have to worry about RCA/phono leads or any thing like that. some thing like this.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vibe-Slick-A1-4-3-2-Channel-Amplifier-Amp-800w-/360430357550?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item53eb52cc2e

    thats justa quick ebay search and you maybe better off speaking to custom ice on here to see wha he can get for you.

  9. por15 is a good call but very time consuming. best way to go though as you should only need to do it once.

    there are companies out there that will re-underseal the car from you and/or waxoil it for you but i all ways see this as a temp measure as it needs toping up every now and then.

    andy

  10. the theory is there but i can see a few problems.

    1st would be the amount of smoke he had after doing the work. :lol: was it a diesel?

    2nd that is only an 8valve head.

    3rd plugs are in the centre on the 3sge

    4th the head on the 3sge is deep

    5th i dont think there is a pry bar spring compressor for the 3sge.

    apart from that it should be simple. :D

  11. i know on some engine you can get special tools that go down through the spark plug hole to hold the valve in place.

    i also didnt have a compresion tool to take the collets out of my head at the time and got them out no problem. there is a way. :P

    but in saying that i did buy a tool after to put the collets back in. otherwise it would have been a nightmare.

    you can also buy tools that work like a pivot bolted to the head its self so you can compress the valve springs, like this.

    http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/210603248/Universal_Overhead_Cam_Valve_Spring_Compressor.html

    the down fall like i said is that the valve moves very freely with out the seal on and i would just not risk it without something holding the valve in place.

  12. It keeps up with them, just cant pull away, 136 BHP in sumet that weighs a lot less than me. Of corse that was on on the old engine :P

    so you still have no chance of beating them then? in fact unless you get it sorted they will just be laughing as they pull away. :P

    i dont really pay any attention to what is going on outside the car when im driving. the only thing i see is the road and the corners coming up. the only thing that has really got my attention was a red honda NSX. could tell what it was in the rear view so slowed down and it shot past on an A road at what must have been 120-150mph easy. at the end of the day if you think your car is fast get it on a track and do it right, if not then just dont bother. always find that if any thing is right behind me that its always gone after the first corner when they have to slow down, 4ws and coilovers make for mostly flat out cornering. :)

  13. no not the law and as far as i know never has been. i do carry mine though. but its a space saver. have never even tried it so dont no if it fits. look way to small and would not be surprised if it didnt fit to be honest. but its there and makes me feel better knowing its there if i need it.

    most modern cars now do not come with a spare at all. some come with tyre weld and some with nothing at all. some with space savers and some with full wheels.

  14. always just use the hand brake unless on a very steep hill. always check the brakes at least once a year including the hand brake so i no they are there and will be working. always start the car with the clutch down, this is just good practice. takes about 20% of the drain off the starter motor when starting. tend to find with this even in the coldest of weather its only about half a turn and she is up and running. less drain on the battery and starter motor.

    main thing to remember is to get your brakes check regularly if you cant do it yourself. :)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.