toiletduck
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Posts posted by toiletduck
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Well, bit of an update today - I had the fronts off and two studs that came out yesterday swapping nuts stayed put.
However, had a bit of a fright driving home. Got followed home by a guy who followed me for a good few minutes - I couldn't tell if he was flashing at me but did wonder. He let me know my nearside rear was oscillating like crazy, which is the one that had four studs come out. Clearly something wrong! I'd just checked they held torque at 70ft/lbs from yesterday too, so it's not that they came loose.
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I didn't - I saw the same conversation in a previous thread to just finger tighten and then the lug nuts would tighten them in, and not use the 2 nut method.
I forgot to mention that I was changing over my lug nuts to some spline drive closed nuts instead of the rusting chrome plated open nuts I had - otherwise I could have just screwed the stud back in using the lug nut attached to it. -
I'll pick some up for when I next have the wheels off. Thinking about it, I made a mistake in that I assume the two nut method would have worked to get purchase on the stud to remove the lug nut. Arse. I *think* most of the marked stud ends are lug nut side rather than spacer side, but not super confident. Not really sure if I should be worried about the whole thing? Four studs came out of the driver rear side, one front drivers, one rear passenger, so I guess three have enough good studs to not be a concern - how likely am I to lose a wheel at some point (as that must be worst case!)
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I used blue loctite - all I can think was that it was raining when I fitted them and it might not have sealed. There wasn't any obvious corrosion or anything spacer side. I did hesitate to re-use them, but needed the wheels back on. Hopefully they stay put this time, not sure if it's worth picking up some new studs in case they do come out again so I can drop new ones in with full threads. I did run a nut down a couple of the studs and it seemed to bring the thread back up from being flattened, though obviously this wont have happened by screwing into the alu spacers - in hindsight, probably should have done that on all the studs.
I think the old nuts starting to corrode may have been why they bound on to the stud so tightly - no evidence of threadlock there, but I'm a bit surprised they came out together so easily. Had to get grip on them to be able to take the lug nut off, and using molegrips any slippage ate the threads up. Did get better at this after having to do it a few times though.
I got them finger tight and then put the wheel back on, as Stewart advised that just putting the lug nuts back on will tighten the new studs in. All a bit of a pain really! -
Hey guys -
Just a quick one: is it normal for hubcentric spacer studs to come out (even when threadlocked) when taking out wheel nuts?
I had to vice six or seven studs today to get the nuts off after they came out of the spacer entirely, and that's marked threads on them. They seemed to screw back on okay, and I've got the wheels back on now.Am I missing something? Should I be concerned about the threads looking flattened on the studs where I've molegripped them?
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People seem to make a really big fuss about not letting the master cylinder get low though? Is that just to save bleeding all four corners anyway?
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Is that enough to stop it if I leave it a few days though? Option two was baggie and tie wrap around the banjo circle bit, might be a bit more straightforward...
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Hey guys -
I've been trying to google this one, but figured I may as well see if anyone has any nice solutions - I want to take my rear calipers off to paint and refurb, but really can't be arsed to have to empty the whole system of fluid. I was thinking of some kind of nut and bolt through the banjo circle instead of a banjo bolt would prevent fluid loss? Not sure which bolt (and potentially washers) I'd need though. Feels like it'd be a bit easier if I could just get an old banjo bolt welded shut!
Any thoughts or better solutions?
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johnyboy1976 just sent you a PM
Same question - front engine mount price? I'm right in thinking that's what 4jw fitted right?
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I really like both of those - plain alloy for me it is I think
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ive just been given a red gear knob. its metal and weighs a ton. il get a pic of it later.
not my kind of thing so if any use to you I can always post it to you.
I'd be keen to give it a try and compare if it changes the experience! Pic would be cool, I'll happily give you some beer tokens for it if it's the badger
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Felt a bit bad there was a gear knob thread only a month old that got bumped after I posted this! I took a punt on a £10 concave GT86 knockoff as a holdover - still interested how much difference the weight makes to the shift feel though. Some of the alu chunks weigh 450g which seems like a lot!
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Hey guys,
Anyone got any recommendations for a weighted gear knob to go with a shortshifter? I've seen a few people recommend picking one up, but a specifically heavy one is hard to track down, especially that doesn't look like it's straight out of the Halfords boy racer section!I'm sure I could have thought of a better knob joke for the title...
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This look right? Notch lines up with the top tab on the bulb.
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Did anyone else just murder their fingers failing to get the spring clip back on? I've been feeling progressively more like a failure as I've been outside wangling them around with absolutely no success - holder seems flush, almost like it's too thick? I ordered the ones from the front page and they do look the same but apparently I can't make it clip!
I really don't fancy taking the bumper off - might have to resort to it though?-
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Living with spacers - studs coming out when taking off wheels?
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
You'd think wouldn't you? I didn't at all, but there's no way someone is going to pull me over and call out the exact spacer that four studs came out of yesterday by coincidence... I'm a bit scared to take it for a drive to see if I can feel it!