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Posts posted by slybunda
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You can put the 2zz filter on the 1zz. 2zz filter may be bit larger.
I use ford filter which is considerably larger than the 2zz filter.
Bigger filter has more filter media surface area so less delta pressure across the media. Less chance of a bypass event in cold weather too. Also adds bit more oil capacity. With normal filter on oil change i fill to max mark with around 4.7L. with ford filter i get whole 5L bottle in.
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Whats the go to for led side light w5w bulbs these days?
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celica numberplate is familiar im sure iv seen it on the club here.
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forward to 3 mins 20 seconds!
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Cant be that picky with fuel these days. Get what you can or your gonna have to push
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hahah yea i thought so too, then i saw a version that has no silencer and is just a straight pipe lol.
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Iv been pointed by some Facebook peeps to this exhaust.
https://fullcartuning.com/57507-sk-import-cat-back-system-stainless-steel-toyota-celica
What do you guys think?
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Heh, hopefully buys me more time so i can think about exhaust options.
Thinking i should have got in on the group buy of the invidia n1 when i had the chance but was always worried it would be too loud.
There is some 2nd hand ones about but again dont want to be in the same position again few years down the line.
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Looks like im gonna go with this method below:
That way it will reinforce the joint too and outlive the backboxes remaining life.
The flexi clamp thingy and the putty from eurocarparts comes to total of around £7.30p
Even cheaper from carparts4less but then there is delivery cost if you dont spend more than a certain amount.
11 hours ago, maizey said:"J B weld" seems good for almost any repair,the americans seem to use it for anything and everything. £5.33 on Amazon
See videos of this where one guy makes a petrol lawnmower cylinder head out of jbweld and it works.
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Haters gonna hate
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Hmm time to go for a shakotan?
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What i don't like about alunox is they dont have a cnc mandrel bender so have to rely on welding multiple pipe sections together. And when it comes to exhausts its usually the weld joints that fail first. So thats just multiple failure points which is not worth the hassle or money to me.
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Emissions passed fine today, i will check my options since the rest of the back box is in good condition it may be best to do a patch up on it for now.
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Hahah a trip to alunox i guess?
Iv been watching some YouTube vids and reading up on forums, i can use something like gun gum which is supposed to be a permanent fix putty.
Weather being colder now means i will tackle this next year.
Hole is big enough to get a toothpick in it. Mot man wouldn't have seen it if i had not told him to do a thorough check on the exhaust since it sounded different from few years back.
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Got mot done today and was advised i got a very tiny hole in the joint that goes into the side of the backbox from cat. Hole is around 2mm big. Guy said for something that small repair putty would be simpler than welding.
Any ideas what i can use?
Car is gen7 190 original system.
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Tigerseal it back together?
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On 09/10/2021 at 19:22, Xanadu said:
There is the more desirable 190 sitting in the Classifieds at £1250 and it hasn't sold, so maybe you should be thinking of £1000 maximum.
where is this one? i cant find it
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Need some pics in this thread.
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Can fuel be siphoned easily? I thought filler necks had anti siphon technology
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Cousins range rover was attempted fuel robbery dunno if they succeeded but got me thinking about the gen7.
Is there a lockable key type of bung you can get like the ones ford and even Toyota aygos use?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302298715497
Would that work?
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I dont get it more ethanol in fuel should mean cheaper cost too but price is going up.
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My uncles make petrol and oil transport tankers. The tankers use an epoxy coating on the inside.
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Ahh thats the other thing i was gonna ask.
If changing the condenser do i just get seals that go on the condenser? Should i not touch the seals on the compressor side unless im opening up the pipes to the compressor?
From the sounds of it i should change all the seals compressor and condenser side to be on the safe side.
Also from reading around it seems nissens is oem for volvo. However if you go main dealer for nissens condenser you will get nissens made in Sweden. Aftermarket nissens is made in china depending which car its for.
So dunno...
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Odd iv had the gen7 for 8 years and when i first got it it waa 13 years old and ac did work but was never mega cold unless driving on motorway. Over time it lost its kick.
Iv got various cars over 10 years old that have never been regassed and are still cold.
Mums 2004 astra was regassed but didnt last a few months so has to be leaking. And leaks are usually from the condenser.
Also that dryer thing may be like a silica gel packet you get in boxes that ship out electronic goods to absorb any moisture.
Gonna get condenser sorted first before i go for a gas job. Dunno if they oil the system before or if i need to oil it up when condenser is fitted.
Job looks easy like changing coolant rad. Probably easier since no bleeding etc needed.
Bumper off job though.
As mentioned above if nissens and valeo is oem then im gonna try and stick with them for a replacement.
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Greasing ball joints
in Consumable Parts
Posted · Edited by slybunda
Best to use ipa or brake cleaner to clean. Wd40 leaves oilyness behind and the grease may slip off it?