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Posts posted by alex282
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I've found this trash talk in the lower end of the car scene in general but I've never found this with Celica owners, they seem to be more humble
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I noticed once when I looked in the right light that I had pint dents on my doors. No idea when I got them or if they were there before I got the car but looks like at some point someone has opeend their driver door into it
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I have just moved to a new flat which is around 100 metres from the sea and my Gen 7 has been absolutely covered in salt whilst sitting parked outside. I presume it has been worse than usual because of the storms, but will still be in the air even in normal wind. Getting a garage is not really affordable or practical for me just now. Mostly worried about this because a couple of months ago I needed the driver side sill welded to pass the MOT. I'm not really sure what I can do? Does anyone have any experience with living next the sea or will I just have to hope the Gen 7 survives all the salt without becoming irrepairable from rust?
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i always for for Rainsport 3s since it rains a lot and they are a reasonable price
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At least it doesn't look like any lasting damage, looks like a nice example of a Gen 7. I've scraped, dented and scratched my 140 a few times over the years but polished most of the damage out and it's a good old daily driver . It's annoying to accidentally park over a kerb or something like you did and it catches on the bumper or splitter
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I can see a lot of problems with this from a technology perspective
Firstly there's lots of different types of vehicles (cars, motorbikes, HGVs, tractors) all which output different levels of volume so there would need to be a database of every type of vehicle and car and the standard output to compare the sound to unless they go for an all around 100dB or so. There's going to be Ferraris or imported muscle cars which are loud as standard, and then Corsas with straight through exhausts. Even a lot of the newer hot hatches like Fiesta STs seem to be designed to pop and bang from stock nowadays. Another issue might be the ambient interference noise such as the wind, thunder, passing jet, motorbike on the other side of the road, HGV beeping horn on the other side of the road as you pass the camera etc. Something else that comes to mind was when I had my imported MR2 turbo it did not show up as an import on the DVLA database but imports have different regulations on cats and sound levels
Exhaust noise is related to RPM or acceleration, my catback is loud under acceleration or at high RPM, but cruising at 60mph without accelerating or even going into neutral as I pass the camera wouldn't be much louder than any standard car
Either way it's going to be expensive to implement this - the electronics, the software and signal processing, the communication system, the paperwork and disputes, all to catch a few chavs on the way to McDonalds as well as penalise car enthusiasts that only bring out their pride and joy on a Sunday afternoon. Then in a couple of decades most of the cars are going to be silent electric ones anyway
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I used to get the handbrake light under acceleration. It was after I left the Celica sitting a few weeks the brakes had stuck on and I think I damaged the handbrake trying to free them up so ended up with a barely working handbrake. The garage had some issues but eventually got a new cable fitted and sorted it
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Whenever I've tried without the spare wheel I've noticed a slight difference at low rpm, the same when I filled my car up with stuff or people I've noticed a difference in acceleration especially at low RPM. The torque is so low under 2000rpm in the Gen 7
When I removed the spare wheel on my MR2 Turbo (in the front) it affected the handling in a bad way by making the front and steering too light
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I have changed the oil myself in my Gen 7 for the last few years but in the last year I've had a slow oil leak (seems to be coming from the sump plug)
When I tightened it, it would keep turning so I just assumed that the thread had been stripped from overtightening. A few months later I realised that this could just be because I lost the gasket/washer when draining the oil and forgot to put one back on
Does anyone know what is supposed to go here? Is it a washer or seal or both? From looking online I have saw copper, fibre and rubber variants and I'm not sure which one to order
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I'm sure someone on here that can see how much work and money you have put into it or someone looking for a track car would pay a few grand for it if you give it some time. One of the nicest looking gen 7s I've seen and sure to be a classic in the near future because there's nothing on the road that looks similar to it
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On 11/11/2018 at 16:58, dublet said:
They're not road legal in light units that are not specifically designed for LED lights. They have different heating characteristics to the light bulbs it's designed for, and it can therefore post a fire hazard.
I would have thought that LEDs don't produce as much heat as the original halogens but you never know with these dodgy Chinese LEDs going in places that weren't designed for them and catching fire like on peoples interior lights
On 11/11/2018 at 16:13, ESTHAR_CITY said:Yes mate. I use them and that make for dipped and high. I know at least 4 others who use them too, even put them in the old mans van. They do the job and give a nice white light
Do you know if they are better than standard halogens and HIDs for the dipped and full beams?
From videos on YouTube often HIDs seem brighter. But then theres going to be cheaper HIDs and cheaper LEDs and its hard to tell which higher priced ones come from the same factory and which are actually worth the price difference
I'm thinking about LED full beams because I replaced my originals with Osram Nightbreakers and they've never focused well (either because the position in the casing or cause I couldn't get my hands in to put them in properly)
And like slybunda asked do they just plug in as they come or does it need an adapter? Those fans look like they might not fit in the gen 7 headlights
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Has anyone tried using any of the new LED headlights for their main beams such as these on ebay?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nighteye-Car-72W-9000LM-H7-LED-Conversion-Headlight-KIT-6500K-Bulbs-Xenon-White/152930141678?hash=item239b58c5ee:g:ATwAAOSwQqJbxpr4:rk:3:pf:0
Just wondering if the aftermarket LED technology has overtaken HIDs yet. I've seen mixed reviews on youtube with some people saying aftermarket LED lights aren't any brighter than standard halogens and some videos where the LEDs do look brighter
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DVLA regulations somewhere online. From memory I think the letters have to be the standard size and font and there is a minimum distance between the letters and the edge of the plate. Standard plates have a lot of white space. Search for shortened plate on ebay and you should find a road legal one. I got 6 digit shortened ones for my personal reg although I usually use an illegal show one on the front which has been mis-spaced and cut shorter no problems from the boys in blue yet and had it on around 20 months apart from the MOTs
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Well done for managing to get a t sport they really are a great car for the price
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To the original question, I used to have higher profile tyres on my old 16" alloys at 205/55/16 and the car felt way too bouncy and wallow-y around corners even with 35mm lowering springs. When I changed to 215/45/17 the handling felt much better suited to the gen 7 and the extra width gave slightly more comfort
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On 25/06/2018 at 23:42, ams said:
lots of dogs but lots of good cars
just because it has a lot of service stamps doesnt mean its not rotten and vice versa - no service history doesnt mean its a dog
main thing is getting a good look underneath and seeing how it drives
im regretting parking mine up now - it never let me down and is still solid underneath but I need a change now so wont be bringing it back
That's true, lots of people would be put off by no service history but I bought my current 140 with no service history and 7 previous owners at 111k and now at 154k miles it's still not showing any signs of dying any time soon
I bought a prefacelift 140 a couple of years ago to fix up and it was a right dog, thats what £180 gets you though
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My current 140 is now 14 years old with 154k. Ive had it for the last 4.5 years and had very little problems with it other than things I messed around with or the usual wear and tear. I have just replaced most of the suspension and brake components
If a Gen 7 has been looked after well then i dont doubt they will last another 10 years. The 24 year old MR2 I had was well looked after and still going well although I had to service some parts, but the same could apply to any car
The prices are now so low that it might be expected to spend a little to get a less than average example up to scratch. The Gen 7 parts are so cheap and easy to source. The biggest issue that people should watch out for is probably corrosion and oil leaks
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I've had my Gen 7 for 4.5 years since 111k miles and its now at 154k 14 years old... the maintenance costs have been minimal, rarely anything has needed fixed and everything that has would apply to any car as wear and tear
Most of the maintenance costs have came from things I modified or messed around with too. The biggest expense for me has probably been the brakes which I recently done all round with a good brand to be safe
Also my shock absorbers have went and this caused my lowering springs to snap (combined with the terrible roads)
I have a slight oil leak and I think it's because the sump threads have been stripped so it doesn't tighten as well as it used to but even so it hardly costs me anything in oil
At one point I bought a Gen 7 140 for £180 to sell on and this was almost beyond saving however -
+1 on ParcelMonkey and Parcel2Go. They compare quotes so depending on the size one courier might be better than the other. I've used Paisley Freight as well although from what I remember they were a 3rd party who outsourced the courier
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You can argue and usually their third offer will be the final. When I wrote off my first Gen 7 four years ago I paid £2000 and was offered £1500 but managed to argue it up to £1600 and then £1800. Probably too late now but you should have had the option to buy it back from insurance for around 15% of the write off value and take the parts off that you need. In your case that might have been worth doing for the engine but stripping and selling parts is a lot of work
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When I bought all of my cars I just asked the seller to take me a drive. When I sold one I took the buyer out for a test drive driving myself then let them drive it for 5 mins. It's unlikely there would be any problem but to be on the safe side I probably wouldn't advise letting someone else drive because if something goes wrong it's most likely that they only have third party insurance for other peoples cars which wouldn't pay for the car
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A drunk guy in blackpool "your cars s**t!*
A guy walking past my drive "I bet that uses a lot of fuel why not get a diesel?"
One of my friends "Is it a 1.6?"
The compliments are funnier though;
A boy to his dad in a car park "look its the NEW toyota"
A boy to his mum in tesco car park "look its a ferrari"
Lots of kids "nice car" or "wow look at that car"
One of my friends whilst drunk "is this a lamborghini?"
Makes me wonder what all the other comments people have said that I haven't heard. The only time I hear them is when I have the window down driving slow or walking away from it while parking
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I bought a full set a while back and they've been amazing
Yeah they've been great all round tyres, will definitely continue to buy them just gonna have to put these 2 experiences down to bad luck
Why do Celica owners BS power outputs?
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I find that <£1k, 15 year old turbo diesel owners that are always changing car are the worst for talking BS about how their VW or Skoda is Stage 2.5 remapped with an Orangutan ECU and popcorn launch control kit off ebay