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trophytr5

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Posts posted by trophytr5

  1. £7,501. The £1 was an initial payment to make sure that the money was going to the correct account.  

    I had other people interested but no one willing to pay anywhere near my price.  I really needed it to go before the insurance renewal came up in 2 weeks.

    Unfortunately, the new owner had a flat (NSF) on his way back. As he was new to Celicas, he didn't realise that the jack was in its stowage compartment on the left side of the boot and had trouble identifying the wheel brace.

    On the plus side he seems really pleased with it. I've sent him a link to the Club

    • Thanks 1
  2. I have had the underside de-rusted (wire brushing) and treated with Lanoguard.

    I have had a number of potential buyers. However, some were concerned about the "slight surface corrosion to underside" from the MoT. Unfortunately, after the Lanoguard treatment, I was kept waiting fo 2 weeks for the "before and after" photos, and a couple of those buyers found other Celicas

     

    "My gen7 hurts me most with no ulez " - According to the TfL website (https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone/cars) is ULEZ compliant.

     

    Currently it's off the market as I am having my bathroom refitted this month and need to be able to drive to my daughter's place for a shower!!

  3. OK. It looks the only option is to raise the car on "hard" points (other than the jacking points) and then lift on the 2 post, after increasing the height of the pads (by blocks or adjustment) to clear the skirts, using the jacking points.

     

    Thanks for the info

  4. 32 minutes ago, Spaff said:

    Driving onto a few blocks of wood will do the job

    That's an idea worth considering.  Perhaps onto some ramps to lift the front end might provide enough clearance

    If the guy I'm going to on Monday doesn't work out, I'll suggest the block idea

  5. Just now, Crazy Cat Lady said:

    Is there not a way to adjust the attachments on the end of the lift arms to get them low enough as to fit under the car?

     

     

    Yes but on the lowest setting (no attachments), the lift arms don't clear the skirts.  Add an attachment to clear the skirts and the arms won't fit under the car. And he can't add the attachments when the arms are under the car

    I've found a guy with a 4 post lift in Mold. Going on Monday for an inspection, prior to treatment

  6. Anyone got any ideas on how to lift a Gen 7 Celica GT on a two post lift?

    Because of the 30mm drop and the side skirts, the arms of the lift won't go under the car and if they did, they would damage the skirts before the car was in the air.

    We thought about jacking it up enough to get the arms with riser blocks under but the jack is then on the jacking points which where we want to put the arms of the lift

    Could take off the skirts but that isn't easy or without risk of damage

    We wanted to do a check on the rust, clean up and treat with Lanoguard but hit this issue.  The guy who would be doing the work only has a 2 post lift

  7. Update - The buyer has dropped out.

     

    He wanted photos of the underside as the MoT had an advisory for "Slight corrosion to underside of vehicle"  I got the car over a pit and took some pictures.

    Personally I though they looked awful, but the guy who has the pit and uses in to do MoT said that it was nothing to worry about. Just good wire brushing and spray with Lanoguard

    However, the buyer was being told by his mechanic that if the stringers were rotten then it was a major problem

    I've never heard the term "stringers" used on here.

    Corroding subframes and sills, but never stringers

     

    Has anyone any idea what he is talking about?

     

    Could it be 57117B and %7418B on this diagram?

    http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/2005/celica/zzt231r-blfvfw/2_252580_004_/body/5801_floor-pan-lower-back-panel

     

    Anyway, he says to keep the deposit to cover the costs of getting the photos

  8. Thanks for all that.

    The guy is coming by train and I'm picking him up aound 5pm, so making a 7pm DVLA deadline might not be doable.

    I expect him to pay by "Faster Payment" and will be able to check on-line, I also intent to check with my bank (Santander) whether there is any mechanism where he can pull back the money from my account after it appears in there

    I am going to ask him to send a photo of his driving licence before he comes.

    And he wants to test drive it, he will have to prove that he has insurance

    The AA receipt is something I hadn't thought about so thanks for that

     

  9. I have advertised my Gen 7 GT on Autotrader. 

    I have had a call from a buyer who has paid a £150 deposit into my bank account

    The plan is that he will come and pick it up and transfer the balance on Saturday week

    This is without seeing the car and after I have told him of the small faults with it

    This has me a little worried

    It's a long time since I sold a car privately

    Any precautions I should be taking?

     

     

  10.  

    Jap_Exotics was asking about it and here is what I told him

     

    Paint and panels are all good. There was damage to the front end when I hit a badger but it was repaired by the Toyota main dealer's bodyshop. Aircon rad replaced and it may be that the main rad was replaced at the sme time, but as the insurance covered it, I don't have a detailed bill

    One little chip on the fuel door - God knows how that happened as it is on the hinge side

    Some wear to driver's side bolster

    Small tear in the rear seat stitching when the seat was folded down and I tried to load too much in

    All wheels are round (AFAIK). Some minor kerbing to NS wheels. But  2 spare refurbished and powder coated wheels (with enough steel stud inserts for all 4 wheels that will need to be pressed in).  Box of wheel centre caps - 3 new Fondmetal, 2 new GT, 1 slightly soiled GT, 4 GT from the wheels originally, 6 caps without centre badges, set of 4 GT centre badges (pretty poor condition), assorted sticker centres and GT letters., all by Mook

    Road wheels fitted with Goodyear Eagle F1 and fitted with Fondmetal centres to preserve the original ones

    Spare wheel is the original with (I think) Pirelli P Zero probably never been on the road

    So overalll, wheels good

    Rear inner sills were an MoT fail last year and have been replaced

    MoT listed somesurface corrosion underneath as advisories

    Rear calipers replaced last year due to corrosion of the brake pipes (replaced) and during the replacement,  the bleed nipples were then found to be corroded into the calipers.

    Rear hub carriers were replaced in 2015 as toe and camber bolts were seized. New bolts fitted with anti-seize compound - why did Toyota not do this when they were new!!!!

    Centre section of exhaust replaced in December 2022 as it was throwing a CEL

    New SGS boot struts fitted 2021

    Parrot MKi9200 telephone/Bluetooth professionally fitted. Display concealed in dash cubby hole and remote control Velcro'd into ash tray recess, so the only thing that can be seen is the microphone up by the rear view mirror

    Toyota SH to 2019 at 47,000. Service records since then from independent garages

    Going with the car - Battery charger, Garmin Nuvo SatNav, foot pump, jump leads, fuel can

    Also unfitted pair of front calipers and hangers from Avensis for 295mm discs, fully refurbished and coated in red by Bigg Red and a new brake stopper - never fitted as it is finished in blue

     

    As for price, I am looking at the top end as it ticks most of the boxes, one owner, low mileage, VGC.  So about £8,000

     

    I have more photos if anyone wants to see them. PM me with your email and I'll give you access to the Google Drive folder

  11. I finally got round to getting it cleaned and took photos ready to post an advert on Autotrader. 

    Checked the mileage and it's still below 51,000

    I need it for one short journey next week, then it's being advertised

    Sample photos attached

    IMG_3361.JPG

    IMG_3357.JPG

    IMG_3355.JPG

    IMG_3365.JPG

  12. Having had little use out of my Thunder Grey 2006 Gen 7 GT over the last few years, having complete my move to Chester and now having nowhere to reliably park her, worsening eyesight, a fairly good local bus service and a bus pass as a replacement, I have come to the conclusion that she has to go.

     

    I've had her since she was a  year old and had only 75 miles on the clock, She now has under 51,000.  A full Toyota service history until just before the pandemic and serviced regularly since then.  She has not been messed with, apart from a Parrot hands-free/bluetooth kit (concealed except for the microphone) and Fondmetal wheel centres (I still have the original GT ones). She's been in the body shop twice, once following a collision with a badger and once after a reversing "error". Both were fixed by the Toyota dealer bodyshop

     

    A small collection of spares (2 refurbed Tech 5 wheels, set of refurbed 295mm Avensis calipers, new brake stopper kit)

     

    It's a long time since I've sold a car and I would appreciate advice on the best way to sell her and any scams to watch out for

     

    And, of course, if any of you guys/gals want to make an offer, feel free

     

     

  13. 16 hours ago, CheltGirl said:

    That is a fabulous document! It would appear that the driver is licenced to drive the car - rather than the car licenced to be on the road. :D

    Yes, not a tax disc, but a driver's licence. 

     

    I have his licences frm 1909 to 1913 and also his indenture as apprentice to a cycle-maker from 1903 (when he was 17).  He joined up in 1914 and went into the Machine Gun Corps (Heavy Section) which later became the Tank Corps. He was a mechanic and survived the war.  He ran a garage in Royston, Herts until the 1950's and was also the mechanic/driver for the local Fire Brigade.  Probably where I get my mechanical skills

    • Like 1
  14. There used to be a product sold for repairing leaky vintage/classic motorcycle tanks which you poured into the empty tank, once you had removed it. You them swished it around until it had coated the inside, poured off the excess and left it to cure.  It might work as a precautionary measure if you are incertain about the condition of the tank.

    I cannot remember what it was called (Petseal?) and, as it was some years ago. it may no longer be available

     

    Just checked. It is Petseal and it is available. There are caveats!

    • Thanks 1
  15. 23 hours ago, slybunda said:

    odd, i measured the stock exhaust pipe on my 190 and its different diameters. the part that goes from the manifold into the cat is around 2.5 inch and the pipe that comes out the back of the cat and goes through to the back of the car is around 2.25 inch.

    shouldnt the system be a single size all the way through?

    No. That was one of the problems I had when trying to get a quote for an SS exhaust.  2.5 inch in/2.25 inch out cats don't seem to be readily available.

    The measurements were tken from the original stock exhaust

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