_Chris_
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Posts posted by _Chris_
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What they don't tell you is to do it with the pump running as this drops the level at the cap. Blip the throttle with the ignition on and the pump should run for about 30 seconds.
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I would tend to contact Martin Kingston as a first port of call. MK autos in Blackburn.
Standard pistons plus standard rings cost nearly the same as forged which come with rings.
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Not looked in a gen 7. The gen 6 has quite a few SMT but still quite a bit of through hole.
To a certain extent I was forced into SMT as many of the newer chips just aren't made in through hole. I'm fortunate to have a local SMT production company which does small quantities without huge charges so it's actually become cheaper than through hole even in 25's.
I am starting to be able to handle SMT myself although only for prototypes, not for production as I don't have an oven to ensure the correct heating profile to solder reliably under chips whithout overheating them. These things help enourmously: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/magnifiers/1830966
Tantalums are fine provided you stay within the voltage ratings, they are very intolerant of voltage surges. Although they are low ESR I still tend to use them with a paralell ceramic, this may also make a difference.
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I've certainly heard that E10 goes stale faster.
Water in small quantities isn't harmful other than causing local corrosion if it's stood - some of the GT4 guys fit water injection when running high boost to keep things cooler and reduce detonation.
From my experience garden machinary isn't made to the same standard as cars unless buying top quality professional stuff. Cars have much more legislation governing things like fuel compatibility, garden machinary it's just market forces. If a £150 mower goes wrong after 3 years people just shrug their shoulders and buy another. It's very different with a £15K car.
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Polymer capacitors are fairly new and I don't have much experience. I tend to use Tantalum for the medium capacity / low ESR applications. For the higher capacity / higher voltage stuff where Tantalum isn't available, neither is polymer so I stick with the traditional electrolytic plus paralell ceramic or polyester.
Nowadays for a 10uF / 12V decoupling application like the main caps that fail in the ECU I would just use ceramic, although Polymer may cope with over-voltage surges better.
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On 19/07/2022 at 05:05, bazz54 said:
I mess around with vintage radios/electronics and the sort of electrolytic capacitors shown in the picture above do often degrade, even in household electronics. It shows up most in low value components (10uF and less). High temperatures will certainly accelerate the problem.
As for ceramics, I didn't know you could get ceramics with values of 10uF; I think the largest value of ceramic I've ever seen would be 0.1uF.
The quality of electrolytics has improved enormously over the last 20-30years, but the difference in quality between no-name components and the big-name components can be huge. There's a parameter called "effective series resistance" (ESR) and good quality modern caps have appreciably better ESR than old components and cheap components. Build quality and life expectancy is also much better in quality brands. Obviously, the quality brands are appreciable more expensive to buy.
When these ecu's were designed, 10uF ceramics were unhears of. I think 0.47 was about the limit.The surface mount era has brought about minaturisation of all components. You can now get 10uF in 0402 size (1mm x 1/2mm) although not up to 16V. This has also impacted on through hole versions.
ESR is part and parcel of why electrolytics don't like ripple, particularly high freqency ripple. Where the larger capacity of an electrolytic is needed, it is normal to put a ceramic capacitor in paralell to handle the high frequency / sharp edges of any ripple. This wasn't done on the capacitors I've looked at in the ECU.
Electrolytics are much less common in modern designs, mainly because they don't apply well to surface mount for 2 reasons. Firstly the larger sizes would just break off the board with any vibration or shock. Secondly, surface mount soldering is done in an oven which heats the component as well as the board up to soldering temperature.
Although through hole electrolytics can be used, it's very difficult to automate the through hole assembly so it;s not ecconomic for mass market.
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http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5617
A good few years on now and while it's been mostly gt4's it's also affected other models and the gen 6's as well. I suspect it's more apparent in the rarest models where spares aren't readily available so people ask fot help.
My opinion is that it isn't poor quality capacitors although that is a possibility. We're also starting to get some of the other values failing now. I suspect it's probably a combination of age, temperature and use.
Heat is one of the primary causes of ageing, and the ECU is mounted under the heater outlet on top of the exhaust tunnel !!
The other ageing factor is high frequency / high ripple current, and the first capacitors to fail were on the power rail feeding the idle solenoid.
I did switch to ceramic capacitors for replacement of the 10uF as these don't suffer the above problems and are more suited to 'decoupling' on supply rails, however someone reported having a problem with the ecu, changed back to electrolytics and it was fine.
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Ezzy's still going ok. (gen 4 GT4)
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The rm380 in one go is very poor quality and virtually unreadable in places but useful to have as a single document.
All my collection has come from the net, when I see something I don't have I add it so always useful to add links.
I'll try to keep my external links maiintained, the problem is that so many free hosting places close down public links sooner or later. Already been through photobucket, dropbox and google drive. As I said, hopefully we can host the files within this site eventually.
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I've now posted all my stuff in stickies for each gen section.
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Looks like pcloud may do the job.
I've uploaded an ST205 manual to try if someone can try downloading it. I think it pops up an advert to the service with the download.
https://e1.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZWpVLZ2HLAABFqblHujw7SNKE7K0xPbTs7
If it's successful I'll upload all my stuff and put it in stickies in each section.
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Maybe we'll look at putting storage within the site as & when we move to a new server and we have more control over it. Meanwhile I'll look at one of the free file hosts mentioned and see if I can upload my stuff there.
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I'm sure that once upon a time each gen. section had stickies or a sub section at the top with download links for all the useful documentation such as BGB and other handbooks.
I've just tried to find this for a gen 6 to point someone in the right direction and not found anything. Even the old bgbonline site seems to have gone.
Any ideas ?
I have most stored on my computer but dropbox, google drive etc. no longer allow external linking so I can't just post a link any more.
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MK Autos in Blackburn isn't a million miles away for a Celica specialist.
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I'll personally never go through a carwash again - ever since the Esso Shaftesbury one on the way up to a Rallyday a few years back. The horizontal roller was running backwards and ripped the spoiler off my Gen6 GT4 and dragged it backwards and forwards along the roof while I was inside the car powerless to do anything other than beep my horn. Yes you've guessed it - they pointed to a small sign saying cars with spoilers shouldn't use it so no liability.
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£230 for 10 hours work isn't a bad price, especially considering he has running costs to come out of it too.
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Someone getting old ?
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Worth a chat with Bek. Not sure whether he would take on an accident repair of that magnitude but he could possibly reccomend someone and have the parts available.
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On 16/02/2022 at 18:58, slybunda said:
Any story behind this ? Anyone we know ?
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Sounds about right. Petrol engines seems to chew a lot more idling than Diesel.
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WD40 will attack any rubber and plastic, swelling it up initially then turning to dust. Many engine degreasers will do the same.
Bear in mind IPA is an alcohol, and consider all the current fuss about ethanol rotting plastic fuel system components.
Unless you can gett all rubber and plastic away, I would get the grease out by wiping and possibly try brake fluid as a thinner. Leaving an oily residue isn't an issue when it's about to be filled with grease.
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Gt4 charge cooler
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
In both cases the Toyota red is the best stuff to use. I've seen inside engines run with Toyota red, and engines run with normal aftermarket stuff.
I also forgot to mention, blipping the throttle with ignition on also provides confirmation the pump is working. It's becoming increasingly common as the age goes up for these to stop working. It's usually worn out brushes in the motor but often worth getting a re-con pump. Available from GT4-play or TCB. Either low level or failed pump will produce the code 54 error.