_Chris_
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Posts posted by _Chris_
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Reis have quoted for the competion car, going back to a single car policy which is where I started with them so I'll probably go for that. They have been very good until this renewal which wasn't their fault.
Ended up going for flux for the remainder as the price was reasonable. Total price was £1321 for campervan, GT4, SS1 and Clio. The Clio was done on a separate policy via Aviva because of the higher milage requested of 20000, the other 3 on a multicar policy with a specialist insurer.
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Thanks, I just googled greenlight insurance and there were several.
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My current insurer, Reis motorsports, have just had their underwriter pull out of multicar policies leaving them unable to offer renewal which is due in just under 2 weeks.
They are able to renew my competition car, Ezzy, as a single car policy again so I'll at least have 1 car available for transport although it won't be covered for business use.
I;m now looking for another insurer for 3 more celicas, a clio and a transit van camper conversion.
Any recommendations other than the obvious ones like Flux ?
Does anyone remember greenlight and where they were based ? I can't find their corp forum in either current or lapsed.
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Check it's the cable not the mechanism seized.
Only suggestion us to soak in penetrating oil.
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I don't think polymer give a massive longer lifespan especially at higher temperatures. They do tend to have a lower ESR which may be a benefit for some, especially the 10uF which are usually the first to go and I suspect the reason being high ripple current as they don't have a paralell ceramic capacitor.
For smaller values like the 10uF, ceramic capacitors are now available in a usable size and should offer much longer lifespan and lower ESR. I have had a report that these caused a problem in an ECU though I've used them in others with no issue.
In theory, tantalum should offer a better lifespan for the larger values however they are much less robust as far as over-voltage surges and explode when subjected to them.
On newer exu's, be aware that gen6 uses a 4 layer PCB and the inner power planes appear not to have thermal breaks. This makes it much harder to melt solder all the way through to remove / refit components and damage to the through plating cannot easily be repaired with links as the tracks are impossible to trace. This means there is a finite risk to changing the capacitors which could desroy an otherwise perfectly working ECU. I would be surprised if the gen7 ECU wasn't also a 4+ layer PCB.
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As above, I concluded long ago that colour means nothing and you need to check the listed chemical composition.
I've seen inside engines run on the Toyota forlife (red and the correct one to use) and I've seen inside engines run on other antifreezes. I only use the genuine Toyota stuff, preferably premixed. This is available from TCB. Dealers only seem to have the conc. stuff which works out more expensive once you've bought demin./distilled water to go with it.
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In case you don't realise, make sure they go the right way round, assuming you've bought electorlytics like the originals.
The gunk is conductive as well as corrosive, and it's possible that was causing the issues rather than broken tracks. If it's thoroughly cleaned with a solvent such as IPA or thinners then it's worth sparing with laquer, or preferably cobformal coating (HPA or APL).
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Bearing in mind the newest cars with this format OBD1 are 25 years old now I really don't see enough market to be worth developing at this stage. Saying that, there wouldn't be much effort needed to decode the data stream and output on USB to a laptop if there's enough interest. If this device is still available it would probably be the cheapest & easiest option.
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Just dug through the archives and found the following info on OBD1
https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/8764-OBD-Serial-Data
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Digging up an old thread.
What came of this device ?
Unfortunately my spare time disappeared shortly after this thread with my Dad falling ill and Dying leaving me as full time carer for my Mum which only ended earlier this year.
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Jack on front and rear subframes. Most 2 post lifts have pads that screw out to allow levelling, if this isn't enough then use extra blocks.
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I believe Paul (Paulus) up in your direction has a contact that will replace ECU capacitors and repair tracks damaged by the leakage but not sure whether he has test gear, I certainly don't. I'm not sure whether the engine ECU also controls the gearbox or whether there's a separate control. Worth doing some research.
When I was looking into my auto box that went erratic, it looked more like it was a traditional auto box with mechanical/hydraulic control modified by solenoids. In my case the problem was solved by another 'box rather than electronics.
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There are specialist suppliers than can source pretty much anything for these cars, worth asking on here.
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I suspect the £700 is all the parts required for MOT and labour,not just the subframe.
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It's getting very very hard to find parts for older cars through the normal channels. I think many supply chains broke during covid and the less lucrative ones have never been re-established.
I this is one of the main reasons mechanics are tending to avoid working on older cars and are so keen to write them off for simple problems.
Forums such as this one are a godsend as they provide information on specialist suppliers, specialist garages and even the technical knowledge for DIY.
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Wales is so full of little gems it's hard to go along all of them in one lifetime.
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Last time I sold a car (other than to friends) was 20-30 years ago and autotrader worked the best, paper version back then.
For buying, I've found gumtree tends to have much more genuine sellers. Ebay is just full of con merchants both buyers and sellers.
If it's in particularly good condition (sounds like it is) it may even be worth looking at Mathewsons, though it's probably too new still.
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I had something along similar lines on my SS1 but that also included very rough changes which gave a bit of a thump in the bavk changing up at higher revs. The gearbox eventually went bang overtaking and left me with reverse or neutral. Sorted with a gearbox change, wasn't ecu.
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But is it the right answer within seconds ?
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I think classifieds were moved from being a sub-forum to their own separate place which may have caused some confusion.
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i would try TCB or gT4 play as first port of call.
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I've got a pile of centre caps at the factory. I never fit them as they can fall off.
That was my old workhorse back when they were cheap - I rescued that one from scrap as it had LPG so was as cheap to run as my diesel clio on long runs.
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Popping out for lunch.
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Worth trying TCB as well. www.tcbparts.co.uk They also do secondhand parts and loads that's not listed on the site.
ECM/TCM repairs
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I'd be interested to see the inside of a G7 ECU if someone can post up piccies. I'm expecting fewer electrolytics, modern designs tend to use far less.