_Chris_
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Posts posted by _Chris_
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I use Easycad for the odd mechanical doodles I do. Imports/Exports from DXF can go a bit astray with text & dimensions though.
I notice they do a free 14day demo download. May have saving disabled but worth a try.
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LPG isn't such a saving on short runs as the first part of the trip is on petrol until the engine warms up enough for the evaporator not to freeze.
You'll never beat a diesel for stop/start driving. My small diesels (pug206 or clio) give over 50MPG whether it's motorway or town stuff. Modern diesels aren't like the old slow unresponsive stereotype, they are generally smoother, more responsive and more powerful than the petrol equivalent.
For me, the small diesels are for ecconomical round town use and the 4's are for fun and long distance (my 205 is LPG).
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Torx as above or mole grips on the outside.
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The rattle is only when on throttle, and a brief rattle on cold start
Possibly big ends or piston slap, but could be other things. If you get loud rattle for a couple of seconds on cold start before oil pressure gets up I'd say big ends. Did the engine get run short of oil ?
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10 degrees retarded and light throttle probably wouldn't be enough. I was thinking more the forgetting to lock the dizzy and then full throttle keeping the car running at -40 or so.
Normally low compression would show worst symptoms at idle / low RPM.
What sort of rattle ? Does it change with throttle position ? Can you post a recording / video ?
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What are your symptoms ?
Did they appear suddenly, or get gradually worse ?
If suddenly, did something happen at the same time (e.g. overheating) or was there maintenance just before (e.g. new cambelt) ?
Initial thoughts are:
1. Incorrect results - faulty tester / should have been done with wide open throttle and about 5 engine cycles. Battery should have been turning over at a good cranking speed.
2. Slightly bent valves after cam belt failure or cam belt timing out causing interference. Or burnt valves after running with very retarded ignition timing.
3. Damaged pistons / rings likely after overheating.
p.s. after reading other replies, looks likely it's not piston/ring issue.
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To answer the original post directly, 23W will be fine in place of 21, there will be enough margin for error.
could you not just put the uk wiring (and possibly sockets/bulbs) into the JDM light cluster ?
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http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5220&sid=a28b6601a91eceb6b73047d3248d1f4b
A few pictures of the modification I did to get the rear fog light into the light cluster...Picture of the original vs the later spec rear light cluster
Another picture of the rear lights. Note that the connections into the housing are orientated slighty differently, but the original loom still fits without modification
Picture with a small section of the loom wrapping removed to expose the wires...
Modify the wiring similar to this - note the fused 12V supply. The rear lamp draws 1.7A. I fused the supply at 5A.
This mod means you can run the inner lights as switchable fog lights, whilst keeping all the brake lights and without illuminating the "bulb blown" indication in the dash
Kris
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Simple amps x hours = AH. so 3.5A for 18.5H will charge a 65AH battery from empty. An approximation but near enough. A few hours should be enough to get the car started, then the alternator will do the rest at a much faster rate.
Note that running car batteries flat shortens their life, especially going completely flat. If the battery is fairly old it's likely to finish it off.
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If it's good enough for Obama then it's good enough for a celica
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Keep throttle light and go down gears rather than increasing throttle to go up hills. High RPM is no problem as long as throttle is light so clutch doesn't slip. Pull away at low RPM / light throttle and don't give it any more throttle until clutch fully engaged.
From my experience of modern cars (in relative terms) the clutch tends to wear more on the pressure plate side and rarely go to rivets on the flywheel side even when slipping badly.
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I've known a few of my local ones have started leaking from the oil pump gasket. The bolts seem to come loose then the gasket blows out. Pain to change as it's a sump off job.
Nothing to worry about though.
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Until it's full.
As in if you put any more in it runs down the outside.
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I travel to both fairly frequently but less so at this time of year. If you can wait a few weeks I can probably help.
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Rubbing the thin dirt shield ?
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Look at it either way, the result is the same.
Car travelling at 30MPH, make the wheels 10% bigger diameter the axle RPM will be 10% lower so the speedo will read 10% low (27MPH)
Axle RPM constant at an RPM which would give 30MPH with standard wheels. Make wheels 10% bigger, car will travel 10% faster (33MPH) while speedo still reads 30.
Either way, the speedo reads 3MPH (10%) less than your actual speed.
This all assumes the speedo is accurate to start with. If, for example, it reads 5% high (as most do) then a 5% increase in diameter will make it accurate.
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Sorry to point out the mistake in the guide, but I can clearly see some s**t on the window that wasn't cleaned off before applying the CCUK sticker
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Should be possible to to a tempory repair by the roadside.
Most common breakage is that the lead pulling out of one of the crimp-on ends. If this is the case, just open up the end and remake. The lead is normally a carbon conductive core (black strands) surrounded by insulation. If necessary, srip the insulation further back to leave about 10mm of carbon sticking out which then folds back over the insulation and goes into the crimp.
If the wire has broken in the middle, get a short length of metal wire, staple, paperclip etc. and push half length into the centre core each side to bridge then wrap round with tape to stop it pulling apart. Keep the join away from wiring or metal as it will not be well insulated.
Alternatively, as above, a motor factor is likle to have ignition cable he can crimp your ends onto.
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If needed, grind flat first OR drill from the other side. Use a small pilot drill first and make sure you get it central.
You MUST use washers - the one which shows how it should be done, the nut has almost dissapeared down through the hole.
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Well, polishing isn't my strong point as anyone who knows me will agree (have never polished a car in my life - that's what a car wash is for).
Anyway, I have some kiddie rides to re-furb ready to go back to site next month. 10 years old, sun bleached and battered gel coat.
So following some advice from a friend of a friend over xmas and this thread I invested £20 in backing plate and box of pads and another £35 on cutting compound and polish.
Polished up ready to get beaten up and covered in mud within days.
Another one same age and from same site before washing / polishing.
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Is the Gen 7 an offset cam/bolt type assembly like the GT4 ? These are renownded for seizing.
Spray all bolts / nuts / joints in question with WD40 regularly for a week then try again. If still no joy, try heating with a blowtorch (oxy can be a bit OTT unless you're careful) and try again.
I'd be very surprised if they can't get the bolts out without damaging arms etc. Cut the heads / nuts to remove parts from car and then bang through with an air hammer or SDS drill set for hammer only.
Another alternative is to get a complete rear subframe with suspension from a car being broken so you gan soak joints and get them undone at your leisure then swap over as necessary.
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Gell Batteries
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
As long as you keep them charged and don't run them flat then 5 years is the normally quoted figure.