_Chris_
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Posts posted by _Chris_
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There's only one way to learn - and that is to ask, debate ideas and listen. We all started with zero knowledge when we popped out of our mother.
Wanting to improve your car is natural. We've all done it, some of us still do knowing full what what's going to happen
My 185 han't driven anywhere in 2 years, currently sat in the workshop with a cracked block waiting to have time to build another engine, fit the garrett turbo, and design / fabricate a front mount intercooler & rad system I'm happy with.
I also have a 205 which I've kept standard (apart from LPG) as a workhorse for my long service trips I do. Even with that one modification - better ecconomy at 70p / litre - it's at a cost of me having to re-shim the valve clearances every 15K miles ish as LPG causes rapid valve seat wear. This car works out as cheap to run as a small diesel, in fact cheaper than buying new if depreciation per mile is factored in.
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apologies then I iv misunderstood .
some one pointed out that your first post in the topic was a sarcastic remark at my expense so thought your intent was just to try wind me up and I don't handle confrontation of any kind very well and immediately get defensive if I feel someone is taking the piss with me .
And your right about trying to chase power , the problem is im getting so much conflicting advice from on here and in the real world I just don't know what to do .
All I am sure about is that im defo keeping the beams (got to much in it now to let go ) and would like some one to give me prices for the things iv inquired about .
Iv asked FENSPORT and UNICHIP to piggy back the ECU ....fensport cant do it and unichip have very poor communication when trying to work with them .
Iv been told by 2 companies in York they will turbo it but I have to source the kit myself ....havnt got a clue what to get to complete the job or where to get it from.
Iv been told to supercharge it but cant find anyone or a full price for such job .
so its not like iv not been trying , its ok people saying do this do that but what I really need is someone to say you can do these things and it will cost you this much (start to finish)
you were about the N/A intercooler ...that was just a hypothetical debate
not really ever been a fan of NOX tbh ...as Dubs pointed out has the potential to fook your engine .
And with me been impulsive I would never be off the button so not a good choice for me personally
Something you need to understand is there there is a lot of hype and BS spoken on the internet, especially on forums. There is also a certain amount of teasing done when people leave themselves wide open to it - Dubs being one of the worst wind up merchants on here. No harm or offense intended I'm sure, just done for comedy.
To answer your main question directly - any car is a compromise of power, handling, reliability, ecconomy and comfort. Any increase in one will inevitably reduce at least one other. - e.g. fit stiffer suspension to improve handling and your teeth will chatter going down a bumpy road. Increase engine power and it will drink fuel and the extra stress will, at best, cause accellerated wear, at worst will break gearboxes, clutches and engine parts.
Toyota and all the other manufacturers spend millions of pounds on R&D to come up with a good compromise of all these. Each model of car is aimed at a different compromise to suit individual needs. Celicas being a 'sports saloon' are aimed slightly more at the power and handling side and less on ecconomy and comfort. Somehow amateurs - people with very little knowledge or experience of automotive engineering - think they can make significant gains in one without loss of another, because Toyota got it so wrong originally.
Put simply - start doing any significant 'mods' to your car, particularly engine mods, and you will very likely end up with an unreliable money pit that you can't afford to drive because it drinks fuel / oil / meths / mitrous and breaks every few weeks.
If you want a faster car - buy a faster car. A GT4 will give you a massive performance increase, will cost you far far less than the mods you require to get the same performance from yours, will probably be more ecconomical, and a good condition one will do tens of thousands of miles without significant problems.
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Why not add a dump valve while you're at it
Serious mode
Firstly find some realistic figures, as it will be % increase per degree not absolute bhp per degree.
if this figure were accurate then an induction kit would lose about 20-30 bhp and the car would have about 40 but more on a frosty morning than midsummer.
the gains from colder intake air are twofold. Firstly cold air is denser so you have more oxygen per cylinder to react with more fuel. Secondly it takes you further from detonation so you can run more advance / higher compression ratio.
To achieve lower temps would require chilling. Two common methods, one is evaporation of liquid in the airstream ( spray bar ) the other would be to use the aircon system to refrigerate the intercooler. The second option would draw power from the engine which would probably be greater than the gain. Both would add significant weight.
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Plenty of tress in Wales, what was he thinking?!
He'll be pineing for home.
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Thanks chaps and Mick Yew have far too mulch time on your hands!
His Bark is worse than his bite.
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Bet that had you stumped - until you twigged there was no damage.
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Indeed, the proper tool is designed NOT to damage the paint when used correctly - otherwise there would definately be rust spots the following year.
They normally tap it along all the spots prone to rust and listen for filler, whether there's signs of rust or not.
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Very little 'opinion of the tester' in it.
Firstly there are 'prescribed areas' which are considered structual. These are defined in the testers manual. The entire sill is one of these areas.
They then use a special 'corrosion assesment tool' which is a bit like a ballpaine hammer head. If it goes through then it's a fail The only subjective bit is how much force they put behind it.
p.s. I see it's also considered a fail if it isn't firm to finger or thumb pressure.
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Glad I asked. Thanks for the laugh.
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I spray liberally with WD40 then put 3 in 1 oil on it and leave to soak, recently did this on a trolley jack that had been buried in the garden (dont ask!!) for six years. When dug up everything was seized, after a jet wash it was sprayed in wd40 then the 3 in 1 oil applied and bobs your granny its now working. the only thing that I snapped was the plastic filler cap on resevoir.
I will add that my 3 in 1 is about ten years old I know a lot of stuff has changed of late due to Eu regulations and what chemicals are now allowed.
Sorry, but I've got to ask
Is it something like a squirrel hiding things away for the future ?Beware using WD40 on anything that has rubber seals such as hydraulics or door locks. It can also make some plastics brittle.
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Once you get it moving, don't keep undoing it. Undo it, do it up, un do it a bit more then wind it on again etc. Works any dirt or rust on the thread out of the nut you are taking off so it doesn't build up
+1 keep adding oil / WD each time.
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Give Baz a ring, he's very likely to be able to help. A fellow enthusiast.
Baz's mobile (outside working hours - this is a 'hobby' at the moment) 07538 443328
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Wrap's can last a couple of years but a decent respray could last for decades. Yuou'll also get to see firsthand what lies under that paint etc. I'd go that route if the cost isn't too prohibitive.
My thoughts too.
We use vinyl stickers on our electric vehicles. The ones customers sit on are knackered within a year - colour worn off and cuts / tears where it is very soft. The ones on the sides, front etc. are normally badly faded in 2 - 3 years.
On old ones I've re-sprayed with 2K paint, they're still fine after 4 odd years even the bits which are sat on.
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I remember the days of 2,3,4 and 5 star petrol. Long before the unleaded stuff came out.
Higher octane fuel has a higher resistance to detonation so allows higher compression ratio or more ignition advance.
If a car is set up & mapped for 95RON then 99 will in theory produce less power and lower ecconomy as it normally burns slightly slower.
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Did the drop links come with new nylok nuts, and if so did you tighten them fully or stop when they just kept turning the joint ? You need to use an allen key in the middle to hold the bolt part while you tighten the nut with a spanner.
I'm a bit puzzled by point 2 saying 'adjustable locking device insecure. This implies a locking device insecure rather than links. Is it and adjustable rear anti-roll bar ?
point 3 - if the leak is near the back then it probably won't make that much noise. On a cat test would probably make it fail on lambda high (weak). From the sheet I'd guess is on the joint between middle & rear sections in which case undo it and fit a new gasket or use exhaust jointing compund.
Point 4 - jack the wheel up using a stable (trolley) jack or put on axle stands. Release handbrake and try turning the wheel, it will probably be sticking somewhere during the rotation.
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3 cars to do as soon as it stops b****y raining!!!!
No rush then
I have a cheap 12V one from Halfords (think it's 9 inch ish) which is good for covering large areas such as you find on cars. I doubt it would last long if you were a regular polisher though.
When I'm refurbing our electric vehicles (all small areas) I use a 3 inch backing plate in a battery electic drill on low speed plus g-mop compounding foams. I use the 3M stuff - fastcut to get the scratches out then polish rosa to finish off. My local supplier also does a combined cutting compound and polish which is handy for a quick one - stop spruce up.
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Good at what, drifting ?
They would need to change name, completely re-launch themselves amd offer a mo-quibble money back if you're not happy before I would risk good money. Their past offerings are truly the worst tyres I have ever tried.
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By the fundamental laws of physics, hoses cannot alter brake efficiency unless they are blocked. Pressure at one end cannot increase at the other.
The only possible difference is a change of expansion of the pipe, which will affect sponginess only. I suspect some of the reported improvements are a combination of the placebo effect, and the fact that old contaminated brake fluid has been changed for fresh, and then bled.
If you wish to see the past reports of problems with braided pipes, do the following google search. You will need a gt4oc login to see the results though.
st205 issue braided hoses fensport
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http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1471&hilit=fensport+braided+hoses
Dear All,
We have become aware of a problem with our brake line kit for the Celica GT4 ST205. The front lower hoses in a few cases have become loose or have broken.
The fault has appeared after a period of time due to the braided hose twisting, when cornering. We have developed a new version which, due to running a different route, the problem cannot happen again.
This is a very serious problem and we urge you all to change the lower hoses immediately, to the newer version, which will be supplied to you free of charge.
We will be contacting everyone who has a set, over the next few days.
If anyone wishes to send us an email with your delivery address details we are ready to post out replacements immediately. Please send email to sales@fensport.co.uk
If anyone has sold their car, could they please forward the new owners details?
Please be aware this problem is only relative to the ST205.
Thank you all for your understanding, we are extremely sorry about this and apologise for any inconvenience caused.
Best Regards
AdrianAs I said above, I doubt many other suppliers would be as reputable as Fensport.
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I fitted them on my old rally car for the resistance to cuts from stones etc.
No noticable change in pedal feel (heard this reported from others too). I suspect with the celicas reputation for bulkhead flex you'd get far more reduction of spongyness by fitting a brace to the master cylinder across to the suspension turrett.
As above, the braid hides the pipe underneath so the first you will know of age degradation is when the brakes fail.
Also, there is a known problem with the superstrut on the gen 6 which applies large twisting movements to the pipes which braided lines can't cope with. The was an issue with Fensport ones which were replaced free once more R&D had come up with a solution. I wouldn't bet other suppliers have even acknowledged the problem.
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The quantity of blowby gas is related to how hard the engine is working.
Light throttles, when the manifold is at vacuum, there is very little blowby so mostly you get fresh air going in the breather, through the engine, and out via the PCV valve to the inlet manifold. The flow is very small, so very little oil is carried in the air, hence no need for a catch can.
On boost, the PCV valve is closed and the considerable quantity of blowby gas goes out through the breather taking with it oil mist from the sump. The separators in the cam cover plus the catch can remove as much of this oil as possible to return it to the sump.
The reason for having this 'double breather' system is that under 'cruising' conditions (most of the time on a road car) it keeps a supply of fresh air passing through the engine, removing the nasty chemicals in the blowby gas.
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Yea this didnt work did it.
Will discuss this over the weekend with the other club staff at the party.
Ah well,
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Although I have no recent experience of Yokohama, I wouldn't have described them as 'mid range'. From the price tags shown above, seems others agree with me.
I wouldn't have rated continental as high spec either.
Don't forget to look at BF Goodrich either - not tried their high performance stuff lately but their lower spec tyres on my Clio were the best I've ever tried in all conditions. They certainly used to have a very good reputaion.
p.s. I think people already know my opinions of the 2 most reccomended tyres on forums - Toyo poxies and Falkens. :rolleyes:
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I work the other way round and have a tyre that has no nasty surprises allowing me to 'make good progress' in winter conditions and accept that I can't go much faster in the dry. The added bonus's being that such tyres tend to be fairly progressive grip wise and don't leave you embarrassed if there's a wet patch mid corner left by a caravan overflow.
I'm surprised at Briano finding kumhos to be all or nothing, my experience was different but was a few years ago. Maybe the newer ones have gone more for the dry compromise that people seem to like.
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My experience with uniroyals is about 30 years out of date, but the ones I tried were fantastic in the wet and the slimy stuff, but rather squidgy in the dry with quick wear. I don't doubt they have come a long way since then and will probably make a good winter tyre, if not good all round tyre. Might even try some myself if the price is right.
Apexi ecu
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
The ECU will remember the map, I think it forgets the 'learnt parameters' such as idle etc. as per standard ECU.
No idea on boost controller, but I would expect a decent one to retain it's memory - especially if it doesn't hsvr s permanent live feed.