_Chris_
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Posts posted by _Chris_
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I fitted them on my old rally car for the resistance to cuts from stones etc.
No noticable change in pedal feel (heard this reported from others too). I suspect with the celicas reputation for bulkhead flex you'd get far more reduction of spongyness by fitting a brace to the master cylinder across to the suspension turrett.
As above, the braid hides the pipe underneath so the first you will know of age degradation is when the brakes fail.
Also, there is a known problem with the superstrut on the gen 6 which applies large twisting movements to the pipes which braided lines can't cope with. The was an issue with Fensport ones which were replaced free once more R&D had come up with a solution. I wouldn't bet other suppliers have even acknowledged the problem.
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The quantity of blowby gas is related to how hard the engine is working.
Light throttles, when the manifold is at vacuum, there is very little blowby so mostly you get fresh air going in the breather, through the engine, and out via the PCV valve to the inlet manifold. The flow is very small, so very little oil is carried in the air, hence no need for a catch can.
On boost, the PCV valve is closed and the considerable quantity of blowby gas goes out through the breather taking with it oil mist from the sump. The separators in the cam cover plus the catch can remove as much of this oil as possible to return it to the sump.
The reason for having this 'double breather' system is that under 'cruising' conditions (most of the time on a road car) it keeps a supply of fresh air passing through the engine, removing the nasty chemicals in the blowby gas.
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Yea this didnt work did it.
Will discuss this over the weekend with the other club staff at the party.
Ah well,
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Although I have no recent experience of Yokohama, I wouldn't have described them as 'mid range'. From the price tags shown above, seems others agree with me.
I wouldn't have rated continental as high spec either.
Don't forget to look at BF Goodrich either - not tried their high performance stuff lately but their lower spec tyres on my Clio were the best I've ever tried in all conditions. They certainly used to have a very good reputaion.
p.s. I think people already know my opinions of the 2 most reccomended tyres on forums - Toyo poxies and Falkens. :rolleyes:
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I work the other way round and have a tyre that has no nasty surprises allowing me to 'make good progress' in winter conditions and accept that I can't go much faster in the dry. The added bonus's being that such tyres tend to be fairly progressive grip wise and don't leave you embarrassed if there's a wet patch mid corner left by a caravan overflow.
I'm surprised at Briano finding kumhos to be all or nothing, my experience was different but was a few years ago. Maybe the newer ones have gone more for the dry compromise that people seem to like.
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My experience with uniroyals is about 30 years out of date, but the ones I tried were fantastic in the wet and the slimy stuff, but rather squidgy in the dry with quick wear. I don't doubt they have come a long way since then and will probably make a good winter tyre, if not good all round tyre. Might even try some myself if the price is right.
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The switches drive all lights together, including the dash warning. If only 2 of these have stopped it's not the switches.
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You're very lucky your turbo wasn't destroyed by that gasket getting sucked in & going through the vanes. Mine was. Penny wise, pound foolish as they say.
TCB is a good source of gaskets etc. Normally quicker than getting from the dealer and you'll get the right one without standing at the counter for half an hour while they try to work out what a gt4 is.
Hmmmm. so can i get a full engine seal pack from MrT for the 2zz engine then? i got a set from Ebay that stated genuine toyota seals, but i have had reservations about them!
TCB do full gasket kits afaik, and they're likely genuine toyota - ask them.
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I don't usually bother with a new washer ever time, never used a new bolt.
The magnetic one is probably worth going for anyway.
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The standard pipes for CT26 turbo don't use any fitting suitable for PTFE tape or sealant. The block end is a banjo with ali or copper washers each side, the turbo end uses a gasket. The OEM gasket is metal and requires the mating faces to be clean. Many aftermarket gasket kits provide a paper one which leaves a mess afterwards making it difficult to get it to seal afterwards. The oil return couples via a very expensive short length of flexi hose.
If you are using other fittings, or elsewhere such as oil pressure sensor, then PTFE tape is fine but make sure it only goes on the threads and cannot end up in the oilway otherwise you may end up with bearing failure due to blockages.
generally, use PTFE on tapered threads (seal on thread). If the thread is non tapered, then it normally seals on the outer face with copper washer ( or similar ) or the inner face with a tapered end.
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No, that wasn't me on the quad.
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Well it seems I'm just an amateur too.
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It is sickening when someone has had a go at your car.
Indeed, especially if it's a car you love.
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Yup, it's cheating
. You did see mine on Sunday though, and it wasn't far short of the second picture. It probably hasn't been cleaned since the Summer - it would normally get done for rallyday but I got a lift up this year.I've been leaving it as it needs a full machine polish and I haven't had time.
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Could be sticky sliders or sticking piston. Stuck handbrakes are normally the shoe sticking to the drum and will release when moved, so unlikely unless it's a sticky cable (you'd feel this on the handbrake lever)
Sliders are easy. Get them out, gentle taps with a hammer if needed (be careful not to squash end out) then clean up with wire wool or fine wet & dry (plus WD40, but avoid getting it on seals) Then re-grease thoroughly when refitting.
Stuck pistons also freed the same way (hint - pump brake pedal to push piston out, if it's more than one piston then clamp non-seized one in) Clean up piston with wire wool & wd40. Remove brown gunk from caliper, but don't use wd40 / solvent as the seal will be destryed. Lube piston with brake fluid to re-insert - don't use wd40 or oil.
edit note - it's worth clamping the flexi hose one the piston's come out past it's seal before the system empties (use a pair of mole grips if you don't have the official tool) and keeping the brake fluid topped up. This will save an awful lot of pain bleeding the brakes later - especially if you have ABS. You will just need to bleed the one corner. Open up the bleed nipple to let air out as you push the piston back in afterwards.
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If the socket set was visible, that's probably what they went in for. Christmas is coming, a ready market for such things and people desperate for money.
One common trick for breaking in is to force a small screwdriver in beside the lock and then push the lever behind up/down. Check beside the lock for a little hole. They tried nicking my sisters micra once like that - I think the Nottingham kids hadn't grasped the 'joy' part of joyriding.
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Amateur
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If you can, whip the battery out and take in to recharge. leaving it flat for several days, you might as well weigh it in now !!! It is probably also the most nickable thing for that very reason - £450 / ton for car batteries.
Sounds like they were going to try & nick it but got disturbed.
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Lpg ?
I do loads of long distance runs and my gt4 is as cheap to run as my pug206 diesel. It goes wrong less often and has better support for tech. Information and cheap spares.
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Have you done as suggested and removed plugs then try pushing in 5th ?
Also, have you tried starting with the key with the clutch down in case it's gearbox seized ?
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Should be able to push in 5th.
did you have any water loss issues or drive through deep puddles ?
If its not seized engine check the heavy earth from battery to engine and measure voltage on battery when trying to start. I assume It's not a battery relocation ?
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And it's not too late to vote for wally of the year.
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Both door switches ?
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And you're still left with silly quantities of power going through the wheels you're trying to steer with !!!!!
As above, best option by far is to buy a GT4 if you want GT4 performance. It will be cheaper too.
oem rubber vs braided brake line
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
By the fundamental laws of physics, hoses cannot alter brake efficiency unless they are blocked. Pressure at one end cannot increase at the other.
The only possible difference is a change of expansion of the pipe, which will affect sponginess only. I suspect some of the reported improvements are a combination of the placebo effect, and the fact that old contaminated brake fluid has been changed for fresh, and then bled.
If you wish to see the past reports of problems with braided pipes, do the following google search. You will need a gt4oc login to see the results though.
st205 issue braided hoses fensport
or
http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1471&hilit=fensport+braided+hoses
As I said above, I doubt many other suppliers would be as reputable as Fensport.