BrianGT
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Posts posted by BrianGT
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Matt1280........those wheels look great....great job!
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Shaun.........that's a fantastic job you've done on your wheels!
I have to be honest I'm too lazy to go to all that preperation work........
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A set of EBC Greenstuff pads.
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I don't have a Gen7 so my post is a bit off topic but i do use good quality oil in my car. I want the engine to last another 40 years and I change it far more often than I need.
When I built the engine I spoke with Millers Technical department and said I planned on using their fully synthetic racing oil but he advised me it was over the top for my needs and suggested a lesser oil..this threw me a bit but we then had a good long chat about oils and I ended up using one of their products at half the price!
As keef-b above says.....it all depends on how you use the engine. Cheap oils break down when they are thrashed as they can't cope with prolonged heat. Then again if you only occasionally thrash the car they are adequate.
Our cars are very personal and some want to pamper them and some just want to use and abuse......different strokes!
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Haaaaa! That explains why that road was shut yesterday and the detour!
Lucky man to survive that but at least the car will polish out.........
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I'm still using a Toyota touch up that I bought well over 2 years ago and it is still working fine....maybe they have to cover themselves if anything goes wrong but I wouldn't worry about it.
It's not like you are trying to pain a bonnet with it!
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When I re-built my car a couple of years ago I was desperate to get it running. I filled it with Millers synthetic racing oil (5-40 i think)
which was the only oil in bulk in the garage and used that to run it in.
When I changed the oil and filter after about 1500 miles I filled it with the correct Millers 20-50 and I swear to this day I could feel the engine "slow" up.....a bit more lethargic.
Maybe I was right after all looking back on it..........hmmm.
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I can't comment on that product but every oil or additive I have used from Miller's has been top notch.
Wouldn't hesitate to recommend their oils.....I use Classic Sport 20/50 semi synthetic. it has all the ingredients older engines need.
They make quality stuff so maybe there is something in it!
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A set of strut tubes from Ozzyland to complete my big brake saga!
Tomorrow is fitting day.....hopefully!
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This thread made me look at the wife's Rav 4 plugs! We've had it 20 months and 16k miles so they deserved a shufty.
Denso iridium's were fitted, they looked great so they went straight back in!
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To be honest.......the loudest part of my car comes from the induction noise! It really roars when the carbs open up and drowns out what comes from the exhaust........at least from the drivers seat.
It's passed two MOT's since I restored it, one by a mate though....and one by my local garage. Neither commented on exhaust noise.
It's worrying though that Plod can pull me up like the OP and then I'm done for!
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Glad it's in great nick mate! Always a relief when you find out it's sound.
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That's me scuppered later this year then!
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This is an interesting read for me.......I now have calipers that are catered for with upgraded pads and I've been wondering which way to go!
Always used Mintex racing pads back then and never had any problems but these days there is much more choice....decisions, decisions!
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my first thought also was diesel!
I don't want to alarm you but the same thing did happen to me. I filled up with petrol at a motorway service station and got about 6-8 miles down the road when I heard an engine rattle on acceleration....I immediately thought I had put in 95ron instead of 99 but I too checked my receipt. Turned out to be a big end bearing picking up. Just threw me that it happened immediately after filling up when it had been ok before I pulled in for fuel!
Hope your works out ok mate.
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perhaps a wise move brian
remember the conversation we had about this on the phone before xmas- remember my yaris put out 67 BHP and although that was awesome in the wet with R888's on (to the extent i stopped taking wets to the track with me) a powerful RWD car would be totally different
I do remember that conversation Dan and it made me research the whole tyre thing! Cheers!
At a track if it rains really heavy and you have the wrong tyres on you can choose not to go out but 350 miles away from home and you have to get back on slicks in the rain is another matter....worries me.
When I decide to have a play in the car on moorland roads it really handles and turns in well but I need stiff sidewalls because of the hard suspension and most road going tyres have soft walls...I would be scrubbing the name off the sidewalls!
I think as this discussion progresses the OP will have a bit of an idea where he wants to go.
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Just as a bit of reference.....my car needs better tyres than the normal road tyres I can get in 14" and so for the last month I have really, really been researching List1B tyres like the Kumho and others.
i just can't get the road tyres I would really like in 14" and after reading thousands of posts and opinions I have come to the conclusion that it's not really a great idea to have super grippy road legal track tyres for everyday road use.
Some do use them all the time and others have had very scary moments with them......as in my instance and we were only doing 30mph in a village.
I travel the motorway south to do all major work on my car and a few times I have returned in monsoon conditions and I think i would be really frightened trying to do 40mph on a motorway with wagons up my arse and spray everywhere!
I'm either going to go up to 15" wheels which isn't my preferred option or go with Yokohama AO21R's....still a list B tyre but with tread and used by the road rally guys in the dry and wet.
Only downside is around 4-5k miles but that's about 6-8 months motoring for me and worth it........my car is really my only indulgence these days!
Good luck mate!
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My pal uses them on his 260bhp Corolla on track and sometimes on the road.
Great dry grip but not at all good in the wet and with standing water they are lethal....you become a passenger.
I've been in the car when it's happened and it's very, very scary when you suddenly cross over to the other side of the road!!
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Loved them on my wife's Focus......good in the dry and in the wet they are very progressive and predictable.....in fact I can't remember ever making allowances for it raining!
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Well done mate! Still.......be careful out there!
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I don't know about anyone on here that has done brushed steel but when I was having my dash wrapped I was torn between brushed steel and brushed aluminium.
I chose aluminium because it was closer to a genuine period GT dash.....It looks good if it's done right!
Good luck! I think because of the brushed effect it looks "deeper" than normal vinyl...kind of less wrapped looking if that makes sense!
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1/2" wider no problem at all....you will hardly notice.
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This is caused by water.
Who ever sprayed your car didn't have a working or very good element filter or a clean air line. Basically the air from the compressor is from the atmosphere. It contains condensation. The same air is blown down the lines to power the air gun which paints your car.
The water in the air is mixed with the paint. After the layers of primer and base paint then clear coat, you have water trapped in your paint work.
Over time it would expand and contract and because the water can't escape, it creates this chicken skin effect.
Ray....that's what I meant about frost....the cold weather then the sun the heat cycles cause the water to bubble....
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Frost can do that if the top layer of paint hasn't keyed to the one below.......it makes the moisture in between shrink and expand with the heat/frost cycle.
Alloy wheel issue - advice please
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I know you have been hit but I wouldn't worry about the return postage......just get them back and claim the bulk of the purchase price.
Sometimes, although justified, we can't always revert to a clear playing field.