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BrianGT

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Posts posted by BrianGT

  2. celica still dead

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    Although mine is a different model I had something very similar.

    One day, out of the blue, it just wouldn't turn over and I got a click from the starter motor.

    As the starter motor was 40 years old I changed it for a known working one (on the bench anyway) and got the same fault. I knew the battery was good as it was fairly new so I checked the voltage to the starter through the main thick cable.

    I had 12 volts at the battery terminal and 1 volt at the starter! The cable had deteriorated over the years and was creating a huge resistance to flow. Changing it cured the problem. This also happens to earth cables!

    Hope this helps.

    • Like 1

  5. Who is the average Celica Owner?

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted · Edited by BrianGT

    :thumbs:

    much kudos points earned from youngsters at work i've found , overheard not long after starting new job

    "what you think of the new manager?"

    "she's a ledge, man you seen her cars?, you wanna hear that vert on overrun and i want that gt4"

    Legend Jan! Enjoy and milk the moment! :lol::lol:

    Edit:

    Jan, when anyone from work mentions your car to you just voice very subtly " Yeah....it's ok but I might need to change the tyres.....when I push it and get in a 4 wheel drift I can't get it back on the steering......I have to use the throttle and a bit of left foot braking".....nonchalantly.......you won't have to make a cup of tea again!!! :lol: Legend!

    Oil...some very long but interesting reading!

    in Consumable Parts

    Posted

    BINGO! result.

    I went for a long run today to see if there were any differences to the mineral 20-50.

    On start up it went up to 75psi (normally always 90 or off the gauge) and once it was at normal running temp it settled to around 50psi and when I thrashed it for a bit it dropped to around 40. Tickover remains the same when hot at about 20-25psi.

    I'm an avid gauge watcher and I know how they all react so to actually see a lower start pressure meant that there was less resistance to flow due to the synthetic flowing easier for the same viscosity of oil. It's done about 2,800 miles since being re-built so it's well run in and ready for synthetic.

    There is no blow by at all with the synthetic but i will keep my eye on oil consumption. My piston ring/bore clearances are tighter than Toyota spec as I used the Wiseco piston data and so far it's never used oil. Time will tell! :)

    It's not for those who only drive their classic to the MOT station every year but based on what I saw/felt this afternoon it seems good stuff.

    If anyone has any good/bad experiences with changing brands, viscosity and type of oil please post here about it!

    Oil...some very long but interesting reading!

    in Consumable Parts

    Posted

    I have no doubt that synthetic oils are better for your car and if I had a modern car like yours I wouldn't think twice about modern oils.

    The problem is my engine is 45 years old in design and although it's been re-built it still has old fashioned clearances to think about. Using the recommended 20-50 mineral oil the oil gauge shows 90psi at start up. This drops to around 50-55 when running and about 40 when I thrash it.

    It kind of shows that with a high cold start pressure that the oil is not flowing very well and if I can make that better by using the correct viscosity but with a synthetic that flows better it might help the engine.

    Time will tell! :)

    Oil...some very long but interesting reading!

    in Consumable Parts

    Posted

    I got rather bored with the willy waving after a few pages.

    It looks like he's testing the pressure the oil film can withstand before breaking down rather than 'wear resistance' in normal operation when the oil film hasn't broken down. If that is the case, then his results apply to race teams trying to eliminate premature failures on overstressed parts rather than joe blogs who wants to get a few more thousand miles out of his near standard engine.

    I don't read it the same way. :)

    I think he is being cautious and stressing his test methods because it is such an emotional issue.

    Wherever the film breaks down it is an issue and a breakdown is a breakdown whether it is under race conditions or driving to the shops. I just think he is giving an indication of what could happen under stressed conditions. It really doesn't matter if you never stress the engine but if you have an old engine like mine and you want to push it hard then you want the best oil that will protect the engine.

    My pistons and rods cost a grand and I want to give them the best protection I can. I have done a lot of research on oils and it has made me think. I'm a dinosaur when it comes to my beliefs on oil but much reading has made me question those beliefs.

    The oil I used 35 years ago in the same engine has been superseded with modern technology and I have to try and move with the times.

    My engine is so dynamically opposed to the modern Celica engine that what I thought was good for me may not actually be true anymore.

    I am willing to find out and maybe pay the price!! :o

    Oil...some very long but interesting reading!

    in Consumable Parts

    Posted

    http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

    I found this article fascinating if you have a couple of hours to get through it! :o

    It compares the "wear rating" of 136 oils tested. It's done in a lab and is done in a way to make the oil film of each oil fail totally. Once the oil film has gone on a bearing there is no lubrication. Toyota's own oil doesn't come out too well.......

    My engine is 45 or so years old in design and I have always ran 20-50 mineral oil in it. Always Millers and typically Classic or Classic Sport.

    I've just ordered some fully synthetic Nanodrive 20-50 which is supposed to offer far better actual lubrication but being fully synthetic and having read "every internet myth about old engines and synthetics" I was a bit sceptical until I did some serious research.

    I came across many posts on various forums where "Oilman" seemed to be advocating thinner oils than I thought might be the right choice but I can now see exactly where he is coming from! :)

    I was concerned that because synthetic oils seem visibly thinner than mineral oils of the same grade that they couldn't lubricate as well...thicker means better doesn't it? No, not always.

    Modern synthetic oils designed for older engines contain some great additive packages to the base oil and do a great job.

    I am expecting the oil pressure to drop because the synthetic flows much easier than mineral and therefore the resistance to flow lowers and therefore the pressure does too but it's FLOW that lubricates the engine not pressure. You just need enough reasonable pressure to flow the oil and the faster the oil flows the more cooling you get on moving parts as the heat is carried away quicker than with a thicker oil.

    If my engine blows you will be the first to know!!

    MODS: I was going to put this in Oilmans' forum but has he hasn't answered any of the questions asked of him for months I thought as oil is a consumable it was better here. Perhaps it will receive more discussion.

  16. How much money have you spent on your Celica?

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    ... and I thought it was women who hid new things at the back of the wardrobe and then said "I've had this for ages!!"

    I used to do that with guitars!!!! I would buy a new guitar and put it under the bed where I kept a few. Then when the missus came in I would pull it from under the bed and start playing it!

    "Is that a new guitar???!!!" "No dear.........it's the red one. You know, the red one I have."

    Worked for years until a mate dropped me in it! :(

    Mintex v Greenstuff

    in Consumable Parts

    Posted

    I have actually just removed my Greenstuff pads and replaced them with NOS asbestos pads and they are so much better.

    I had the Greenstuff in for about 6k and I just wasn't impressed with them. Not much bite when cold and it didn't get any better when hot.

    Perhaps the asbestos pads will fade earlier but I haven't thrashed the car enough yet to find out.

  21. Bonnet Pins

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    I used to use bonnet pins on my TA22 but that opens the other way so I could use the rear bonnet catch and pins at the front. Taking out the pins and pulling the bonnet catch meant easy removal of the bonnet but a pain in the butt to remove the bonnet just to check the oil!

    Splinter...............your car looks AWESOME! I love the way it sits and those graphics!! B)

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