dublet
-
Posts
10,937 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
82
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Club Shop
Collections
Posts posted by dublet
-
-
Osram Nightbreakers were my weapon of choice. However the biggest difference you can make to visibility on a gen 6 is getting your hands on some projector lights.
-
9 hours ago, alex282 said:
I would have thought that LEDs don't produce as much heat as the original halogens but you never know with these dodgy Chinese LEDs going in places that weren't designed for them and catching fire like on peoples interior lights
Less heat overall, but it's more concentrated.
If you look at reputable light manufacturers, you'll find that the LED bulbs all say that they are not legal for road use.
-
They're not road legal in light units that are not specifically designed for LED lights. They have different heating characteristics to the light bulbs it's designed for, and it can therefore post a fire hazard.
Sadly they'll get you through an MOT as the tester cannot make any checks that require opening of anything.
-
I went with a Pipercross filter for my Legacy, as it's the only performance filter available. For a Celica I'd be trying to buy the TRD filters.
-
Just the essentials.. Like an air compressor, air tools, portable hydraulic lift, and a less than 5' mechanic.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, Celia_Alan said:
will be his father to my kid.
What kind of Back to the Future shit is that?
-
1
-
-
Sounds like the sort of thing that could break a friendship if it goes pear shaped.
I mean, do you have the same definition of running costs for starters? Seeing as it's your car, could you forgive him if he totals it?
But then again, maybe I'm just cynical..
-
22 minutes ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Would that be good to use on bicycle chains?
Personally I wouldn't use that on a bicycle chain. I used to use Finish Line ceramic wet lubes which last a while but have a bit more friction overall. I've since switched to Finish Line Dry. It's a bit more high maintenance in that it doesn't outlast a rain shower and requires reapplying much more frequently but the upside is a smoother chain action. Neither of those leave a white residue.
-
5 hours ago, matt1280 said:
Give the locks a quick grease just in case
Lubricant selection is important, as always. WD40 is convenient but it requires frequent reapplying as it's a very thin - which is what makes it penetrate well - it won't give long lasting satisfaction. Similarly, grease is known to collect dirt, so you may actually shorten the lifetime of your lock. You want to disperse water as that's what makes a lock seize, but avoid dirt collection. So you can use a PTFE based lubricant like this special version of WD40.
4 hours ago, G6-20 said:my exhaust is about to fall off, rear brakes are grinding / binding. front brakes are squeeling, 2 tyres are shot, [..] and theres numerous clunks and clonks from front and rear suspension. and my idles all over the place.
Maybe you should address all of those. Doesn't sound like your car is road worthy.
-
1
-
-
Lego is the world's biggest tyre manufacturer. So in likelihood you want theirs.
-
1
-
-
There's the air meter (MAF or MAP), so it very much knows how much air is going in. Self learning is a pretty grandiose term for switching LUT based on some basic sensor input, which is what most ECUs do anyway.
-
DPD? UPS is also good. Try ParcelMonkey or Parcel2Go for quotes.
-
1
-
-
You did what?!
-
1
-
-
-
Also bear in mind that oil is trades in USD, and since 17th of April the pound has been dropping in value again. Dropping pound + rising crude oil is a double whammy.
I had a look at a few forecourts as I cycled past today, and they all seem to be around £1.29 for 95 RON.
-
1
-
-
Fortunately I'm in the position where I've no idea what the current price is here. I just fill up with VPower and pay.
-
It is pronounced トヨタ セリカ, or /ˈsɛlɪkə/ or /sɛˈliːkə/.
-
Someone said Wright off?
-
That's a bad idea. If you only have winter tyres at the front, you're very likely to lose the rear end anyway.
-
52 minutes ago, arizona said:
I'd agree with having a cheapo set of wheels for winter. It was the best way i found as then have the best of both , usually a set of tyres 'suitable for all seasons' is actually not great for any of them
The Panda has some Vredestein Quatrac 5s and they performed rather well in the snow and ice we had. But then again the Panda has super skinny tyres, is light and not driven fast (which is not possible).
In general I'd agree though, separate set of rims for winter tyres.
-
It'd be a lot better than a TT 1.8 4WD..
-
-
12 hours ago, Freeman558 said:
" So, there you go, the seventh-generation Toyota Celica. It’ll never break down and it’ll always look great, unless you dick about with it, like so many have care of awful alloys or stupid suspension"
Maybe best not to tell them about the GT then.
The GT is an OEM selection of alloys and suspension. There's a big difference to someone buying cheap alloys that are more akin to cheese and doing suspension mods that involve cutting springs. I broadly agree with their comment about "Car designers know what they’re doing". It still boggles my mind how many people in the modification scene think they know better than Toyota when it comes to extracting more horse power out of a 1.8l engine.
-
Read the topic please, only one per day.
Looking for my next Celica, is milage an issue?.
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I'd always prefer to buy on condition rather than mileage. The GT4 I had managed nearly 200k and was still a great example and that's with a turbo and 4WD.
But as above, I'd not get an AT200, I'd go for an ST202 instead. The extra 200cc buys you more power, more reliability and when driven somewhat carefully will deliver the same mpg.