Jump to content

maizey

Club Member
  • Posts

    415
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by maizey

  1. Hi,you seem to have a bit missing . . .

    its a VSV (vacuum switch valve) for EVAP (Evaporative emission control system) which should slide into the bracket on the air box lid immediatley under the connector in your first photo.

    Couple of photo's below to help. . .

    AF%201_zpsswp3gb15.jpg

    AF2_zps0npjoeh6.jpg

    If you no longer have the bits suggest you contact AMS on here I sure he will be able to supply the bits you need,maybe just buy a air box lid complete??

    HTH

  2. Recently fitted new rear MTEC disc's, so now have grooved only MTEC's all round.

    Have tried pads by mintex,pagid,ebc but have now returned to Ferodo premium pads which i had originally.

    Nothing wrong with the other makes (some produce more dust than others as mentioned previously) and I daresay that they could all quote figures to show that their product is the best, so just my personal choice and,for whatever reason, just feel happier with the Ferodo's in there.

  3. i might look at getting some of these , do they equal to the light output of the dipped bulbs? , the mtec sidelights could do with being a bit brighter i guess.

    Hi,if you have mtech superwhite headlight bulbs already fitted you'll find these sidelight led's will compliment them perfectly.

    HTH

  4. Warm White 5000k @£7.98 - the amazon advert is exactly the same as the recent ebay advert.

    Cool White 6000k @£6.99 - the advertised specifications match ( except the 6000k bit) word for word to the Warm White, but \i haven't seen a ebay ad for these.

    just noticed you've ordered . . . .

  5. Hi,

    Just in case you still want the Kolite's for your sidelights . . .

    There are 2 versions of the KOLITE LED's available on Amazon at the moment (from the same guy who advertises on ebay) -

    Warm White 5000k @£7.98 and Cool White 6000k @£6.99.

    You will have to make the order over £10 to get free postage though.

    If you have seen this already :sofa:

    :thumbs:

  6. Hi & welcome - ref the cigarette lighter problem.Just before you start chasing around for the fuse are you certain that the socket is dead? . . . . it may be that it's the element/coil in the cigarette lighter itself.

    Could I suggest that you plug something else in the socket first, anything that will tell you if the socket is working ( lamp,map light,extension socket with a tell tail light on it).

    HTH

  7. Looks like it might be one from there then, but the lowest I can find on their site is 89mm, not sure that's going to be low enough.

    Hi,Machine Mart do a couple at 72&75mm. :think:

    As an alternative maybe - They also do " low rise ramps" about £50 ish the idea being that you run your car onto these first which then provides a bit of extra clearance to get a trolly jack underneath,might be worth considering? :shrug:

    HTH

  8. Retainer_zps0f148f92.jpg

    Hi,apologies if this has already be posted previously . . found these, so posting the details.

    20x Nylon Toyota Fender Splash Shield Push-Type Retainer Clips ( 20 x 10 x 7mm )

    eBay item number:
    310404508888 (sorry not sure how to add the ebay link)
    £3.81 free postage (from Hong Kong) . . . . so 19p each - OK so you'll have to wait a few days
    Got some of these today,NOT cheap and nasty and nice tight fit.
    For comparison a used Mr T retainer is top left in the photo.
    :)
    • Like 2
  9. Hi,this is where we send our vehicles to be repaired correctly when other so called bodyshops have "repaired" the vehicle.

    Not cheap,but it will be done right,plus you get to drive alongside the canal!

    G. Bailey (Motor Bodies) Ltd

    Address:

    Skelton Garage, Skelton Road, Timperley, Altrincham, Greater Manchester WA14 1SJ

    Phone: 0161 9280919

    HTH

  10. Slightly different angle than previous but worth considering.

    Lets forget the fuel consumption for the moment

    Moving to a gt4 is very appealing, however, this would be an older car, certainly more miles than 23k (unless you find the car of century that is) therefore, if it goes wrong, are you in a position to fix it yourself and/or can you afford to pay a garage to repair it for you.

    As this is your daily drive is there something else to use if the car is in the garage for a week or so being repaired?

    If you are OK with this then do it..

    I would do the test drive thing as mentioned by others but you are in the great postion of having a nice low mileage car at the moment which you can hang on to until you find the perfect gt4 . . . .

    Boring answer I know, but 23k is nothing,I doubt whether the oil has even got round the engine yet !! :)

  11. Hi, Before you do anything further to the carpet . . . and assuming it's in a worthwhile conditon to save.

    1.Allow it to DRY as far is possible - appreciate that the oil will not dry,but get the water/moisture out.

    2.Get a tub of Swarfega and apply thoroughly to the oil stains - I mean work it deep into the carpet fibres with your fingers,nail bush.old tooth brush anything you can lay your hands on really.

    3.Leave 12 hours or so . . . .if you can keep going back every so often and work the swarfega in then so much the better

    Finally with good hot soapy water and fairy liquid ( ie a concentrated washing up liquid not a cheapo) wash the carpet.

    You may have to repeat this process to get all the oil out but it will work. BUT always start with a "dry" carpet if possible to get the best results/use/effect from the swarfega.

    I used to work in the textile trade and swarfega was our best friend for oil on fabrics or come to that on anything really.

    If you think about it,if it's ok to use on your skin then it won't cause damage to other surfaces.

    Out of interest if you have spilt oil on your drive/concrete/flagstones use the same process as above.

    • Like 1
  12. i used to sell those aluminium ones and to be honest had nothing but issues with them as people would over tighten them, either damaging the threads or i saw a few cases the thread and internals stuck in the sump and the head snapping off flush with the surface.

    I actually get ones custom made for me now out of steel that are nickel coated like OEM to prevent rusting but have the high strength magnets in the middle, easily able to support a 3/4" racket from just that tiny magnet.

    I fit these to all the forged engines I've been doing now as a standard part. But i do sell them separately if anyone is interested. There £12.00 delivered to the door.

    Tim

    TB Developments

    Exactly. :thumbs: . . I've had the joy(?) of removing sheared off alloy sump plugs, as you describe, on other peoples cars . . . . . that's why I called them "NASTY ALLOY" previously

  13. Dunno? . . . . . but if it was just a case of sticking the magnet to the original sump plug then don't suppose the manfacturers would have bothered "crimping" a magnet into a new sump plug?

    My guess is (and it is a guess) that there may not be an adhesive resistant enough for the environment it lives in,that they don't want to take the chance of the magnet dropping off inside or maybe being pulled off, as the sump plug is being removed and reattaching itself to the inside of the sump?? :shrug:

    What is needed is to get the collected metal particles, on the magnet, out of the system, therefore, the magnet has to stay on the end of the sump plug so I guess that a crimp fitting is the best option.

    Might be worth an experiment (not by me though !). . . . . . if anyone out there fancies it :think:

  14. For me this is a case of 'and' not 'for and against'

    Regular oil changes - definitley Yes

    &

    good quality oil - definitley Yes

    &

    quality oil filter - definitley Yes

    &

    engine flush - if it makes you feel better/happy/peace of mind - then Yes

    &

    magnetic sump plug,magnet on the oil filter . . well why not . . . . not exactly heavy are they? and the cost will not break the bank will it?

    If a magnet prevents a bit of metal circulating (or getting stuck) around the engine, the oil pump or oil feeds etc, that a good thing isn't it?

    Opinions were asked for, not saying mine is right, but that's my view - always have and always will fit a magnetic sump plug . . . . you could say I'm attracted to the idea . . . sorry, I'll get mi' coat :)

  15. right then . . .

    fitted one of these to every car I've had. . . and they do take out (sometimes quite a worrying amount of) metal particles . . . ever had a scratch around in your old oil in the drain tray after doing oil change?? . . . . . ok not the greatest pastime, i admit.

    There have been a few concerns/comments regarding magnetic sump plugs made out of "alloy" material - ie they may shear off on removal if it's been put in to tight along with the repetative warming/cooling cycle . . . . I reckon you would have to really, really tighten it to have it shear off though.

    However there is a steel one

    www.motorsport-developments.co.uk "The Dimple is without doubt the best Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs on the market. All steel construction, real engineering quality control and the strongest magnet available"

    Follow the link at bottom of the page to their "webshop"

    which I have on my G7 . . . . . . .

    Hope this helps :)

    Oh yes . . . and you get 2 x washers with it

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.