maizey
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Posts posted by maizey
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2006 G7 with 110K. (Purchased in 2008 with 20K on the clock) - New oil pan sump fitted due to a rust pin hole.Other than routine servicing,brake disc's / pads,fan (aux drive) belt and a throttle body clean last year this is the first actual "repair" I have had to do.
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If the aircon bomb isn't effective think you may be down to trying one of those Ozone (O3) generators, they usually kill all nasties and remove odours in the vehicle, just a matter of whether you are OK with the smell they make.
The large commercial units can effectively treat even flood damaged vehicles and there are some 12volt portable offerings on Amazon, however, I have never had cause to use one so mo idea if/how effective these things are.
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Well you certainly got your monies worth out of that one . . . . . .Febreeze would not have had any effect, doubtful if a full blown hurricane would have been any help.
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just a quick comment ref these sanitiser's /aircon bombs . . . . If you have nice leather seats it's worthwhile covering them over, whilst the contents are discharged, with an old sheet/blanket or similar as the contents (mainly from the less well known brands) can put a white stain on your nice black leather.
How old is the cabin filter ? Old school temporary fix is to spray something like "febreeze" on the cabin filter . . . worth a go
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Hi all, Is there a/any reason why Eurocarparts\Carparts4less have not been mentioned as a (trusted) Mann filter supplier? . . . . just wondering if I have missed something about them
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Crazy Cat Lady, between the options shown I would always go for the MANN, they are OE manufacturers from many of the german car companies anyway, however, by choice the original TOYOTA filter is always first on the list unless it's a stupid high price.
As always personal preference comes into such a debate (like which is the best oil) and I am sure other people will have differing views.
Reckon I owed you this reply
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17 hours ago, totts said:
I'd happily pay 4k tbh it's about supply and demand good ones will fetch a premium whatever the car
OK . . . . .thank you for the reply
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12 hours ago, Kev 16v said:
I think £4k is realistic.
My 2004 140 had covered 30k when up for sale in the Spring. £6295 on eBay, and I had five people who wanted it. First one to ring paid £1k deposit by bank transfer based on my description over the phone. Four more genuine calls while the ad' was still live on eBay, waiting for the car to be collected. The price did include two sets of 17" wheels, one Summer, one Winter, and if I say so myself, the pics on the ad' made the car look brand new.
Confess to having mixed feelings on collection day..after 17 years, you can get attached to cars, and this one had been faultless.
Thank you Kev16v, I'll let him know.
Although he has owned it from new it's got to the point now when his bad knees are preventing any use or enjoyment of the vehicle . . .which is a bit sad really.
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4 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Surprised no one has answered after 3 weeks!
Just my thoughts although i'm no expert, and have no idea as to how much it should sell for.
It is blue with leather seats - does that mean it's a Blue Edition model?
8M6 blue - does that mean it has been resprayed?
Original 1 owner and low milage are good points, but then it really does depend upon how well it has been maintained.
Proof of full service history is a huge bonus, especially oil & filter changes.
Any history of accident damage.
With one honest owner this should be easy to clarify.
I suppose the bad news is despite the low miles and one owner the car is 16 years old so probably needs just as much work as a higher miler to include the overhauling of brakes, suspension, sub-frames, radiators, exhaust, etc...
Sounds like an excellent buy for a project though, i hope whoever buys it preserves the originality.... and doesn't' tart it up like a chav-mobile
Hi Crazy Cat Lady, seems like I can always rely on you for a comment to one of my posts . . .thank you
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It's not a Blue edition and not resprayed ( Lagoon blue is 8M6 . . . might have the wrong name on this though).
Service history is just about perfect, no accidents ( he's never gone anywhere far enough to HAVE an accident !
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Vehicle has no mods and is standard as hell, its still got the round advertising blurb in the well of the spare wheel . . . .
Thanks for the reply
4 minutes ago, Xanadu said:Yes, I would agree with that.
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21 minutes ago, Xanadu said:
Ask him what he thinks it's worth and we'll tell you if he's being realistic or not.
I have already told him that the £4500 he thinks it's worth is "unrealistic"
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Just been speaking to a guy who has the above vehicle in his drive and is maybe looking to sell as it is not used and his knees are bad so cannot get out of it easily.At the moment the vehicle is only driven around the block on Sundays.
He is original owner, it's mot'd,service history,original keys,original spare wheel,leather seats.NO sunroof though,3 post spoiler on tailgate,5 spoke orignal wheels have just been painted.
Interior looks very good,slight wear on drivers seat bolster, 3/4 small scrtches to paintwork and a very few stone chips on front.Think he said that it had just had a new battery as previous one failed due to lack of use.
He is not in rush to sell so will ask top money for it.
Ebay and Autotrader advertising similar vehicle's but not with such low mileage.
Would appreciate your thought on this.
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"J B weld" seems good for almost any repair,the americans seem to use it for anything and everything. £5.33 on Amazon
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Answering this on the basis/assumption that this is just the foam that is contaminated . . .
Have you tried using the 'Swarfega' hand cleaner? As this is specifically designed to remove oil/grease from your hands then I would expect it to be OK for the foam.Try a small area first though.
I use it to remove oil/grease from Cotton/Linen fabrics without damage.To get the best use you need to rub /massage the Swarfega into the item then leave it for 2-3 hours to do it's work.Wash out with warm soapy water ( i use the green blocks of household soap for this).
I accept that there is a smell to the Swarfega, however this is removed when washed with the soapy water, just repeat if the odour is still there.
You may have to repeat the process to get all the oil out but it will get it.
Most import thing is to massage the swarfega in and LEAVE IT to work on the oil, if you just wash immediatley it will not work.
Last point to mention is try to avoid getting swarfega on the leather as it will happily remove all the 'good oils/waxes' from the leather.If it gets on the leather just wipe it off asap and apply leather balm etc.
I suggest you only use Swarfega, would avoid the other cheaper/unknown brands.
Hope this helps with the problem
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13 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Red rubber grease is silicone, and is probably high enough in heat resistance.
But what do you use between the hub-flange and inner disc, and outer disc to wheel?
hub to inner disc - just a thin film of "multipurpose" grease or whatever i have in the garage - nothing special.
The red rubber grease is just for the slider pins only,nowhere else
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5 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Photo from 5 years ago...
Yes, the disc interfaces with the hub flange and with the wheel to hold it on.
My mechanic uses copper-slip on the hub flange part, which is okay but imho seems a bit too gritty.
When we replace the discs tomorrow i'm going to use Mintex 'Cera Tec' silicone disc brake grease though-out, so it will not only be used on the slider-pins, but also behind the pads, on flange, and between disc hub to wheel.
Wheels are replaced on my Celica twice yearly with the winter & summer wheel/tyre sets, so don't think there is strictly a need for copper-slip.
Copper slip vs Ceratec https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr
Ceratec is fine,but I am still "old school" so the silder pins get red rubber grease instead
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Tough choice
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just my pennies worth . . . over the years many people have (reluctantley) sold their much loved celica then,1 or 2 years later, are back on here saying it was "a mistake" & " I should not have done it" & "does anyone know where . . . . is?"
With the time, money and effort you have spent on your obvious pride and joy I would keep it until the day comes when the only way you can get out of it is by rolling out on to floor
Once it's gone . . . . . . . .
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Ok so I'm getting old,first flush of youth was a long time in the past and the second and third are also distant memories, HOWEVER, i still like to do the work on my G7.
With this in mind and, wanting a bit of comfort, I bought this for £3.47 using the MID60 discount code from Eurocarparts
Sakura Tailored Boot Mat Product Code: 947907315
(shoes are for scale, before anyone starts
)
Now i can kneel or lie down in the garage or drive, with a little bit of comfort. and a half decent chance of being able to get up again.
If you are "silverfox" generation like me you will know what I mean, everyone will probably think "well that's £3.47 wasted" . . . . . believe me it's not
management - sorry this may have been better in different catagory,please move it . . . off topic maybe
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are you able to tell whether it's from front or rear of car?
Tyre? but Dorris beat me to it
Any change in noise if you knock it out of gear and free wheel?
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On 21/09/2019 at 19:46, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Funny thing tho', i found the passenger side a lot easier to do cos the clip is around the other way so i can see it more clearly.
think you've just volunteered your services for fitting my passenger side dipped bulb next time it needs replacing . . it'd be worth the trip to Wales just to avoid the frustrations.
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On 19/09/2019 at 17:54, Crazy Cat Lady said:
However, i maybe game to upgrade the main beams
the main beam bulb replacement is not that bad.
passenger side dipped is another matter
Whilst the guy in your vid clip DID replace the dipped beam bulb this was the drivers side . . . . . . .the easier side . . . would love to see how he got on with the pasenger side replacement.It's the access that's the problem, especially for a bloke with big hands and fat fingers, hooking that "little metal clip" back in place quickly becomes a matter of honour
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Not intending to sexist with this comment but a female with small hands and slender fingers would probabley replace this bulb with minimum fuss and wonder what all the fuss was about
just seen CAL670 comment whilst typing this . . . . . . . . . . .
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you are all missing the point people . . . . . . . . . . they are "super white" and are "racing halogen bulbs",they come in a "super" plastic case and are still a PITA to fit
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Akuma 77 has said all that needs to be said. . . . . . . . .however, i'll just add that I also have had Mtecs in both main and dipped versions for 2-3 years with no problem (when i tried them the the philips bulbs only lasted 1 year at best) so not considering changing to anything else unless something really special arrives on the scene
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noticed this on the BBC web site
"Motorists with vehicles breaching legal noise limits could face fines if new "acoustic camera" technology is developed, the government has said.The Department for Transport will test noise-detecting cameras in various locations over the next seven months"
Cloudy headlights after June sunny days - Quick clean up
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Noticed that the headlights had taken a bit of a beating after June's hot days. Didn’t fancy doing all that sandpapering work so used the Turtle wax headlight cleaner and sealant.
Did this by hand: Spent about 15 mins on each headlight using a micro fibre cloth wrapped around a scotch bright pad, just to give it a bit of firmness.
Quite happy with half an hour’s work and one less reason for the nasty MOT man to pick at.
As this is an abrasive just take care of the surrounding paintwork.
For comparison - 1st photo shows drivers side done and passenger side untouched.
(Apologies if this has been covered previously).