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Posts posted by matt1
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I'm re-greasing the ball joints on my super-strut arms to prolong their life. I will do it off the car.
I have some moly grease to pack in, but my question is am I ok to use some WD40 before when cleaning out the old grease? To make sure they are clean and move really freely? Then clean with a rag and put in the new grease.
On the one hand seems like a good idea to get everything free, on the other hand I'm worried it would displace old grease inside the joint which the new grease might not get to
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Tbh if the price difference isnt that much between them and the carbotech id go for the carobtech. I havnt used personally but in the research i did there were mixed reviews about 2500 and 3000 but never a bad word against the carbotech
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I had 2500's. They're fine for the street, I personally had fade issues with them on track, but that was with the stock calipers. You'll probably be fine with that BBK. From what I researched the Carbotech is a much superior option for the track thou
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I ran DS2500's and they weren't really up-to the task if you're hard on the brakes on the track. Alternatively I used these with great results https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/stoptech-toyota-celica-01-05-celica-gts-00-front-sport-brake-pads.html including on 36 degree track day with no fade. They can wear a little fast if pushed really hard, but 2 sets lasted me 3 years, for the price they're great.
The next set up would be some Carbotech's or similar for 4x the price if you want brutal power and 0 fade (from what I've heard)
Or the TRD red would be another good option (but alos pricey) https://www.fensport.co.uk/parts/toyota/celica/vvti-140bhp-zzt230/braking/zzt231-front-trd-brake-pads-red-series-race-pads/
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Motul RBF600
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I had a set, fantastic in the wet, not bad in the dry (but hardly pushed them) but did make a bit of an annoying noise at high motorway speeds.
Only drove a short journey in the snow, they were ok, at at guess I'd say more of a 'get you home' tyre in the snow rather than a full winter where you can drive around as you wish.
Sold my winter wheels I had them on after a year and only drove a few k on them so maybe not the most informed feedback.
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Will you be (or are there any extra benefits) in ceramic coating it aswell?
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A bit of feedback on the M1144 pads.
I've used them for a few thousand miles plus 6 laps of the Nürburgring, 2 sessions on the large Ring GP track and 3 sessions on a small tight track.
RoadStrong initial bite and a bit more power than the normal setup. Even better with a bit more heat in them but perfectly fine from stone cold too. Occasionally some squeal, but it's very occasional and might be solved with some copper grease on the back of the pads (I put mine in dry, just with grease on the pad 'ears').
Track
Generally impressive amounts of power, I would say better than the Ferodo DS2500 I had in the standard calipers. I had no fade on the Nürburgring or the shorter track, and I gave them a right hammering. Expect a little smoke when you first bed them in thou, should be nothing to worry about, just let them cool after. They've also hardly worn from what I can tell when the DS2500's in the stock setup would have been significantly worn with the same amount of miles/track work.
I did start to get some fade on the longer GP track after a 10 minute session, but that has a 120mph straight to 30mph corner so isn't exactly easy on the brakes (plus I was chasing a new Focus RS :P). And when they did start to fade the drop off was much less than the DS2500's. Nothing taking it a little easier or some more cooling wouldn't remedy.
They are a fair bit dustier than normal OEM pads, but no worse than the DS2500, and I think it's to be expected with a more aggressive pad.
Hopefully that helps anyone considering these.
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I will be putting the M1144s through their paces at the nurburgring this weekend
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I'd used OEM spec pads on the back for a few track days, they were fine, just a little crumbling towards the end. Finally replaced them with Stoptech Performance pads, couldn't tell any difference, might just last a little longer in the heat.
You'll be fine, just check them every so often when you grease the sliders as AMS says.
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Generally 225 is considered too wide for a 7j. It's possible but not advisable
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I'm not sure there is any room to get to the head of the stud to be honest, at least not easily. So fingers crossed some pressure will work
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So I fitted some new front studs at the weekend to fit my 15mm spacers and I very stupidly overtorqued one of the nuts and have rounded the spline on the stud.
Luckily its not completely rounded and there is some resistance.
I'm going to see if I remove one of the caliper bolts and get some J B Weld on the back of the stud, but it looks very tight. I've read its best to remove the other nuts first and then pull the wheel to put some more pressure on the splines which makes sense.
But the question is when doing this, do I use an air gun to zip the nut off with the initial torque? Or gently put more pressure on with a torque wrench? I'm only going to get one shot before its completely rounded and thingsget very difficult/expensive!
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This is the only one I know of, isn't that close and you need to be there by 9am latest on a Sunday to miss the traffic. Don't bother going after 10am...
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I have them on the standard 16s with a 205/55R16 size, works out a couple of % bigger than the standard, nothing to worry about and in my experience actually makes the speedo read more accurately
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I would highly recommend the Michelin Cross Climates. I have them as my winter tyres and so far they are great, grip in the wet is exceptional.
Have a look http://www.michelin.co.uk/tyres/michelin-crossclimateand http://www.evo.co.uk/features/15600/michelin-cross-climate-vs-winter-and-all-season-tyres
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Could you get the blitz one re-cored? Not sure how expensive or even possible it is but potentially worth looking into?
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I'm getting oil into the spark plug tubes on my gen 7 190.
Lee at Se7en replaced the rubber gaskets with genuine Toyota ones which helped for a while but it's happening again. Reading a few threads it seems like this can be an issue with the rocker cover itself being slightly deformed which is why the nice new rubber grommets are struggling to seal.
So I was thinking of taking the rocker cover off and putting a little bit of sealant between the rubber gasket and the rocker cover to help the seal. However I have no idea what type of liquid gasket/sealant to use?? Any recommendations?
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Yeah they were, it's probably because I've been running at very high speeds on the lpg which needs more voltage to ignite. I've replaced them with some silver tipped version which are better for igniting the lpg. Should probably get an lpg tune soon as well. Will keep an eye on the new ones.
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It is iridium, they've done less than 30k. Thinking of going for something different next time
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It can't hurt to clean up the standard earth points. Mine, especially the one under the battery tray, were quite corroded.
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Funnily enough I just picked one up the other day and check my brakes at the weekend after a few hours on the autobahn, 60degrees up front 50degrees on the back within a few degrees side to side. Handy little device
MSDT P157 Race Camshafts
in MSDT 01/09/2021
Posted